Emira JB4 Tuning Now Available for I4 & V6 Cars!

[David s]

This is the answer I got when I asked if they could or need to tune my mods to get the most out of my JB4 stock tune. See if it makes sense to you. It would appear that variations are adapted to by the JB4.

It is not typically necessary to make adjustments for bolt on modifications of this type as the vehicle already takes advantage of any added air flow, and we typically recommend running the map that matches your available fuel octane, but feel free to send us some full throttle datalogs to review when possible and we can recommend any settings changes needed.



"To capture a datalog, connect to the JB4 app, press the Log button or "Start Logging", then capture a full throttle pull, preferably 40-90mph on a safe private track, with shifts, then press the Log button again or "Stop Logging". Go to the logs tab and email us the newest log file at the top of the list by pressing the log and selecting Email. Send to this address please.""

Best,
Burger Motorsports Support
BurgerTuning

 

[seriously]

a few thoughts.

1. You can’t compare dynos across cars under different testing conditions. That doesn’t make sense. Dynos are mostly helpful to see relative differences in your own car after adding mods back to back. To that end I think many are looking forward to @Eagle7 results. Thank you in advance.
2. I’m glad the base Jb4 tune is based on an air filter mod and 3rd cat delete. For anyone considering the Jb4 these mods just make sense. Why would you get a Jb4 and not do these mods?
3. Jb4 results may vary sure. But even the lowest reported results are impressive. Outside of the guys in high heat geos. Sorry bros not good for FI anyways.
4. The last gen evora put out 430hp with the same powertrain. Everyone is modding their car at their own risk but adding similar or slightly elevated power above this hardly seems catastrophic. I think jb4s in other engine platforms may have more risk when they were pushing some REALLY big HP gains. BMWs for example. I don’t think map2 is that. The 2GR has been reported to produce some really big HP gains and still be robust. IMO map2 is well under the ceiling even in stock form. I think that’s why they chose to supercharge the 2GR in the first place.

 

[675430VME]

I'm gonna share my opinion on why people are getting inconsistent results with the JB4 piggyback. Now, I can already see the pitchforks coming out, but let me say this, I could be wrong here. This is just a thought that crossed my mind that makes sense to me.

From my understanding, the stock ECU has the capability to make small adjustments depending on a variety of variable factors. This is why, when we mod our cars, the performance seems to get better as the ECU begins to make small adjustments. However, it is not capable of big adjustments and it has it's limitations, and therefore, some modifications require or highly recommend tunes for optimal performance.

The JB4 piggyback seems to monitor these variable factors to a much greater degree or with different parameters for adjustments in real-time for 2 main purposes:

1) Add more power and

2) Keep the engine (not the whole powertrain/drivetrain) safe.

It's like having a tuner constantly monitor your engine information outputs and tune your car as you are driving it. Which is kind of cool and the reason why I have praised this product.

With that being said, it has an inconsistency built-in to it. It's less consistent than your typical tune in both a good and bad way. In other words, on any particular day, when conditions are great, it will provide excellent results, while on a poor condition day, it may result in less stellar results. To be more specific, when conditions are prime, the piggyback really steps on the gas, but when conditions are less stellar, because the engine is not actually modified for that level of power and safety, it dials way back to prevent potential negative outcomes.

If this is true, it could explain why people are getting different results on the dyno. The same people getting a dyno with 40-60 hp gains may see 90 hp gains on a better day at the dyno and the people getting 90hp may see 50hp on a day with poorer conditions all on the same map.

Thoughts?

Hmm…not how it works

 

[675430VME]

This is another reason why I stated multiple times that cooling products are probably going to be awesome with the JB4 piggyback. There would be less reason and occasion to dial back the power leading to greater consistency and power.

JB4 cannot modify timing so cooling doesn’t really help

 

[Coreyalert3]

JB4 cannot modify timing so cooling doesn’t really help

True on timing, but, better cooling could allow it to stay in a more aggressive part of the factory tune more consistently. Cooler charge temps cannot hurt.

 

[Eagle7]

Something I noticed after doing the delete, is before with the 3rd cat in place, on a hot day the water temp would hit 200F and stay there whether I was moving or sitting still. After the delete it still hits 200F if I'm not moving, such as sitting at a red light, but as soon as I'm moving the temp drops to 194 and stays there, so the 3rd cat does appear to push heat back into the engine.

Something else I noticed when periodically checking the gauges on the JB4 app, was the IAT is typically only 2-3 degrees warmer than the outside temp. It looks like the heat reflect foil I wrapped that section of the Eventuri in has had an effect. Next time I clean the air filter, I'm going to wrap the other end that goes into the outside intake tube, and wrap the outside intake tube as well. There's all kinds of heat from the engine and rear wheel and brake that accumulates in there. I want to see if I can get the IAT to within one degree of the outside temp.

 

[Kaz]

8

Something I noticed after doing the delete, is before with the 3rd cat in place, on a hot day the water temp would hit 200F and stay there whether I was moving or sitting still. After the delete it still hits 200F if I'm not moving, such as sitting at a red light, but as soon as I'm moving the temp drops to 194 and stays there, so the 3rd cat does appear to push heat back into the engine.

Something else I noticed when periodically checking the gauges on the JB4 app, was the IAT is typically only 2-3 degrees warmer than the outside temp. It looks like the heat reflect foil I wrapped that section of the Eventuri in has had an effect. Next time I clean the air filter, I'm going to wrap the other end that goes into the outside intake tube, and wrap the outside intake tube as well. There's all kinds of heat from the engine and rear wheel and brake that accumulates in there. I want to see if I can get the IAT to within one degree of the outside temp.

The water temp on the dash is lying to all of us, sometimes it is cooler than shown, and if it's showing 200 it's probably at 210-215+ and won't show anything above 200 on the dash that until the actual temp is above 220. This is done on purpose. If you are plugged into OBD2 with your JB4 make one of the gauges water temps, all the various OBD2 apps I use all show the same numbers that the JB4 is pulling from and I don't know where this temp sensor actually is but the value will always be much lower than displayed on the dash. And awesome on your IAT's, the actual temps are probably +15-30F after the intercooler at full throttle (you have a V6? it's air to water right?) the stock cars are very efficient with intercooling. On the I4 the transmission cooling I believe is also plumbed into the engine air to water system and it's very efficient, similar +15-30F from ambient post intercooler, and on my car when methanol is active that drops to about +10-15F

 

[Aforst]

8

The water temp on the dash is lying to all of us, sometimes it is cooler than shown, and if it's showing 200 it's probably at 210-215+ and won't show anything above 200 on the dash that until the actual temp is above 220. This is done on purpose. If you are plugged into OBD2 with your JB4 make one of the gauges water temps, all the various OBD2 apps I use all show the same numbers that the JB4 is pulling from and I don't know where this temp sensor actually is but the value will always be much lower than displayed on the dash. And awesome on your IAT's, the actual temps are probably +15-30F after the intercooler at full throttle (you have a V6? it's air to water right?) the stock cars are very efficient with intercooling. On the I4 the transmission cooling I believe is also plumbed into the engine air to water system and it's very efficient, similar +15-30F from ambient post intercooler, and on my car when methanol is active that drops to about +10-15F

Kaz super curious about the methanol install. Impressions, advice, description etc!

 

[Kaz]

Kaz super curious about the methanol install. Impressions, advice, description etc!

I'll make a dedicated post...should work equally well with V6 or I4 - it's been a journey lol and literally as of this morning I think have the right settings. I am using the JB4 together with the Burger WMI controller/kit...this way I can operate the methanol on a dedicated Map 7, have methanol on ALL maps, or turn it off to run stock. Terry at Burger has been great, send him logs, he suggest changes...and he worked with the shop that works on my car to create the custom maps on their dyno. Again I'll post on another thread pictures of the install and more data stuff. We picked up a ton of power and torque. Once the I4 ECU reflashes start being a thing, you could move to Snow Performance controller and custom tune. But for now very happy, car rips!

 

[NJemira85]

8

The water temp on the dash is lying to all of us, sometimes it is cooler than shown, and if it's showing 200 it's probably at 210-215+ and won't show anything above 200 on the dash that until the actual temp is above 220. This is done on purpose. If you are plugged into OBD2 with your JB4 make one of the gauges water temps, all the various OBD2 apps I use all show the same numbers that the JB4 is pulling from and I don't know where this temp sensor actually is but the value will always be much lower than displayed on the dash. And awesome on your IAT's, the actual temps are probably +15-30F after the intercooler at full throttle (you have a V6? it's air to water right?) the stock cars are very efficient with intercooling. On the I4 the transmission cooling I believe is also plumbed into the engine air to water system and it's very efficient, similar +15-30F from ambient post intercooler, and on my car when methanol is active that drops to about +10-15F

It’s so incredible that nothing on the dash is real. The temps are a lie. The tach is hilariously delayed. You have to give them credit, no other brand would ship a useless dash

 

[Kaz]

It’s so incredible that nothing on the dash is real. The temps are a lie. The tach is hilariously delayed. You have to give them credit, no other brand would ship a useless dash

you forgot about the power rating on the dash that never goes above 400 lol

 

[Tracked Emira]

I know, It's crazy! I started a post that Lotus robbed us on horsepower only to find out that maybe I am hitting the max RPM. But then after Draggy results came in for 0 to 60 times, they were off regardless, so their claims are not 100% correct. Also we should ask members where they recorded these times because I have learned that if you live at higher altitudes that your 0 to 60 times are worse. Can anyone confirm this and why?

 

[Orchardbike]

I know, It's crazy! I started a post that Lotus robbed us on horsepower only to find out that maybe I am hitting the max RPM. But then after Draggy results came in for 0 to 60 times, they were off regardless, so their claims are not 100% correct. Also we should ask members where they recorded these times because I have learned that if you live at higher altitudes that your 0 to 60 times are worse. Can anyone confirm this and why?

At higher altitudes the air is less dense, so you get less air into the engine and therefore less power.

 

[Tracked Emira]

That's what I thought, so then when someone posts there 0 to 60 times they should mention where they are located so we know that times may be worse due to higher altitudes. My Draggy was only used around 5 different days on a previous car and it doesn't charge after not using it for 2 years. I've heard they go bad, but this is ridiculous. Anyone else have it go bad and is there a better alternative?

 

[PatrickJS]

That's what I thought, so then when someone posts there 0 to 60 times they should mention where they are located so we know that times may be worse due to higher altitudes. My Draggy was only used around 5 different days on a previous car and it doesn't charge after not using it for 2 years. I've heard they go bad, but this is ridiculous. Anyone else have it go bad and is there a better alternative?

also the v6 auto has around a 20hp loss (just from the auto transmission nothing related to JB4 )

is this thread still about jb4?

after updating the jb4 it works for v6 auto but I'm still getting the P0106 that the latest update was meant to fix

 

[1031ent]

Whelp after reading this somewhat painful 62 page thread ….. she’s installed and feeling great! I definitely want to book a dyno day to ensure my butt and reality are one. So far though, for the price, I’m a fan.

My idiot self was testing it in touring mode for the majority of the time today before I realized I needed to flip it to sport/track.

2 things happened occasionally that I’ve never experienced before. 1. If I quick shifted, traction control kicked in. (I try not to quick shift but the heat of the moment probably had an effect.) Take that for what you will, but in most cases that means the power is out pushing the tire. 2. Forget 7,200 rpm. She would pull up to 6k and almost jump to 7,200 immediately. I couldn’t gauge if that was the speed at which she got there in the higher rpm’s, if it was something I was doing, if it was a figure of my imagination, or a malfunction of sorts, but based on the way she ran and pulled…. I think that’s just normal from the new setup. Now I have to be even more ready for this child’s play of a redline.

Check your torque curve. If you are getting more torque at higher RPM's it will accelerate faster.

 

[hellasf1]

8

The water temp on the dash is lying to all of us, sometimes it is cooler than shown, and if it's showing 200 it's probably at 210-215+ and won't show anything above 200 on the dash that until the actual temp is above 220. This is done on purpose. If you are plugged into OBD2 with your JB4 make one of the gauges water temps, all the various OBD2 apps I use all show the same numbers that the JB4 is pulling from and I don't know where this temp sensor actually is but the value will always be much lower than displayed on the dash. And awesome on your IAT's, the actual temps are probably +15-30F after the intercooler at full throttle (you have a V6? it's air to water right?) the stock cars are very efficient with intercooling. On the I4 the transmission cooling I believe is also plumbed into the engine air to water system and it's very efficient, similar +15-30F from ambient post intercooler, and on my car when methanol is active that drops to about +10-15F

I know the 200-220 is true from experience…

When I had my shop do the JUBU 460 I did the cooling upgrade at the same time. I posted about this on the other thread but one of the hose clamps came off while I was going 75 mph on the highway while it was raining. I was only like 15 minute from the shop and I was looking at my engine temp bc I just did the cooling and was really pleased as I saw 171 since I took off from the shop then it started creeping up to 200 relatively quickly. It stopped at 200 and I was still driving and saying to myself wtf I was at 185 before this cooling upgrade why I am at 200 now. About 5-7 seconds after that 220 red and climbing and alerts on the dash, smoke in the engine bay.

I pulled over and shut it off but yes this part irritated me bc if I started to see 201 and climbing I would have pulled over rather than having the more dramatic incident that happened. Also make sure your shop is competent enough to ensure simple clamps are triple checked!

So you’re telling me thou that what I am seeing now which in track I’m at 171-175 cruising. Usually 171 when I pushing hard and 175 cruising. Traffic it might get up to 180 but has to be over 90 out. So this isn’t right? I do have the JUBU ECU but I think it’s limited to Lotus still as I have the 7,200 rpm version and my dash redline shows 7k. I can take it to 7,200 but the visual of the redline is a limit from Lotus. So am I really at say 156 if it’s 15 degrees off?

 

[geoffbland]

A useful tip for our American friends - just use the options to set your units to Centigrade. Then you will rarely see temperatures above 100.

 

[Emira Fan]

you forgot about the power rating on the dash that never goes above 400 lol

Hey Kaz, just and FYI some US and China Turbo cars do show higher power figures on the infotainment screen.

 

[Eagle7]

also the v6 auto has around a 20hp loss

is this thread still about jb4?

after updating the jb4 it works for v6 auto but I'm still getting the P0106 that the latest update was meant to fix

Lol yes this thread is still supposed to be about the JB4. Did you record a data log and send it to Burger?