Water membrane

I have a dumb question. ....if the car is under warranty and you replace the factory membrane with your own silicone/epdm.......and you still end up getting a resistor failure from corrosion..........

Are they still going to fix it or say it wasn't a factory/dealer installed part and deny the warranty.....I have to ask. All dealers and factory from my experience with Porsche and Mercedes etc ....u can't trust them.
I Very much doubt that lotus could blame your DIY shroud since the damn thing is a “band aid” solution anyway. Regardless if it’s your own or their lowsy material posteriori oem version, the crux of the issue is that the fuse box and HVAC resistor’s design do not properly seal from water infiltration and that is what they would need to contend with.
 
I Very much doubt that lotus could blame your DIY shroud since the damn thing is a “band aid” solution anyway. Regardless if it’s your own or their lowsy material posteriori oem version, the crux of the issue is that the fuse box and HVAC resistor’s design do not properly seal from water infiltration and that is what they would need to contend with.
I totally think they would blame you. They wouldn't look at my shifter linkage noise because I put a GRP short shifter in. I'm going to perform the "upgrade" after Lotus stops doing it for me. I believe they are supposed to change this part out under warranty every 2 years based on wear. They should be checking it when you bring the car in for warranty work.
 
I was being sarcastic....I just figured the dealer try to Weasley out of any claim.
No, I understand that you were joking. I think my dealer is great, but I am actually concerned that if I take my car in to have them look at the HVAC, they may need to hook up to the OBD II port to monitor and will find the JB4 there. I took delivery of my car in December 2024 and started having the classic symptoms recently. I loved Blackthought_'s DIY membrane and wanted to emulate it, so I decided to take a look at my membrane and sure enough it was bunched up, creased, cracked, pooling and leaking. I got the membrane out and tried to gain access to the plug but ultimately decided to have the dealer honor their warranty. I buttoned everything back up without the failed membrane, which I hope they will not take issue with. Perhaps I should just unplug the JB4 and tuck it away out of sight. That won't erase any suspicious data logging history which may appear, though.

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I guess u can fabricate a new membrane and God forbids the resistor still fails you could reinstall the original one then take it in.. ridiculous we have resort to that thinking for a poor design flaw
 
I could have put the old membrane back in , but I cut it where I had to free it from around the support bar to avoid undoing the bar and I didn't want them seeing that. I figured they could just assume my car never had the crappy membrane fix done. Yes, it's kinda sad that a new Lotus still has the build quality of an old Lotus.
 
I’ve just been looking at my warranty invoices when they replaced my wiring harness etc caused by water ingress and i am glad it was sorted under warranty in 2024 I wouldn’t like £4k bill and probably more now.
So get your membrane sorted 🤔
On a positive note my cars going well no issues whatsoever
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After looking at EPDM and Silicone I ended up ordering a 36"x36" piece of Nitrile rubber 1/16" thick from Discount Rubber Direct in Texas for under $60 (shipping & handling included).
Nitrile is far superior to both EPDM and Silicone.
1/16" has plenty of flex to it, is very strong and will easily outlast the Lotus material.
I'll attach a few pictures of the final cut later this week.
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Just be aware that standard Nitrile rubber isn't good at high temperature - it degrades at 100c. There's some types that can resist temperature better.
This is going right next to the radiator.
The reason I got silicone sheet for mine is that silicone is heat resistant.
 
That's about 212 degrees Fahrenheit. So, we should be good even with the sun and the radiator, the venting at speeds should keep the temperature closer to about 120 to maybe 150? Remember, as much as we think they are for "style", all those vents (in the front) are fully functional and are very good at keeping that front area cool.
 
Nah...just stick a Fillet Mignon in there instead:
Rare = 120F
Medium Rare = 200F
Medium = 250F
Well Done = 300F
I'd prefer Thick Ribeye, any idea what temps I need for that :) And more importantly will the frunk provide the temp I need ?
 
Just be aware that standard Nitrile rubber isn't good at high temperature - it degrades at 100c. There's some types that can resist temperature better.
This is going right next to the radiator.
The reason I got silicone sheet for mine is that silicone is heat resistant.
I checked the temp specs for Nitrile before purchasing and this is what I found:
Tensile Strength: 200 - 3,500 PSI
Elongation at Break: 350% - 650%
Abrasion & Tear Resistance: Good to Excellent
Operating Temperature Range: -40⁰F to 250⁰F
Maximum Continuous Static Use: 250⁰F

Coolant runs from 195-220⁰F (90-105⁰C)

So it should be up to the job more so than the Lotus stuff.
I'll keep an eye on it and report any issues.
 
...Coolant runs from 195-220⁰F (90-105⁰C)
And that's the temp inside the plumbing. Given this area is fully vented, I'm guessing the hottest temp. this material would see is maybe 150 degrees? And even that feels like a stretch, certainly at highway speed anyway.
 
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Cooked Mother-in-Law !!! All I want is a steak
Hmm, you don't know her. Nuclear fission couldn't cook her.

p.s. to all members on this thread who'd prefer keeping the focus on the subject of the shroud, my apology for the silly unrelated tangents, but sometimes I just can't help myself. All for fun.😉
 
Not getting my car until September, but have already bought my silicone membrane!! 😂😂
Then I found this... Am I looking at this right or is that some sort of permanent fix by lotus with a black plastic cover and access points with turn keys?!? FYI I've asked Savanna7 on YouTube who's video this is captured from...
 

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