Track talk modifications

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I'll probably end up throwing in some Tillets or Nogaros, but are you still running with the factory seats and a harness? How is that working for you?
They make a big difference and I don't move at all. Racing seats will go in next year to get rid of the extra weight
 
As a track novice I'm having my first track day in my Emira in less than 2 weeks. Some mods I've done:
- GRP dry intake filter
- Milltek valve controller
- GRP short shifter
- ZL1 Addons tow hook

Mods to be done before track day:
- Castrol SRF brake fluid
- GRP 3rd cat delete
- GRP 12mm hub centric wheel spacers

Next steps:
- new brake pads (haven't decided which ones to get)
- lightweight lithium battery
- cold air intake (GRP or Eventuri)

I have sport suspension with cup2s. I would only do a couple of track days per year, so the car is 90% street. Will not be getting too much track mods.
Which cold air intake did you go for?

Im wondering if there's much difference between gregs and Eventuris?
 
Which cold air intake did you go for?

Im wondering if there's much difference between gregs and Eventuris?
I haven't bought the intake yet. The car was garaged for winter, and the high-flow filter already sounded good enough. I would get an intake along with an ECU tune or JB4 for more performance later.
I personally like the Eventuri better because it looks cooler and is made of carbon fiber, but performance wise I don't think they will be much different.
 
Joining in here:

I’ve tracked my fully stock touring chassis Emira twice now here in the UK.

Running the Goodyears, with everything standard. Only change was getting the geo dialled in a little more, and it did make a nice difference on front end grip.

Few key notes:
- Both track days done at Bedford Autodrome. A mid-speed track in the UK. Both days done during the winter (November & January). First day very wet, 2nd day very dry but single digit temperatures (Celsius)
- front pads have been roasted to 20% life left. This is also after 8k miles.
- Tyres still 3mm on rear, 4mm on front.
- I am novice to track days, so got tuition both times and drastically improved my pace, understanding of the Emira’s dynamics, and overall track time improved.

Key takeaways:
- for a stock car, it surpassed my expectations for track performance.
- needs new brakes pads, and high performance fluid.
- touring chassis is very soft (yes we know this already..) but for a novice, it helped me understand where the weight was loading up, how the cars’ lean angle affected its grip and cornering speed, and how to improve my inputs to be smoother.
- front brakes faded after about 10-15 minutes of full-sending (about 5 laps), so required a couple of recovery laps to relax the car before sending it hard again.

Upgrades planned:
- Cup2’s all round. I won’t be tracking now until April, so the dryer and warmer weather will treat these well.
- upgraded pads. The rears are still fine imo, just the fronts. My local geo specialist recommended PFC’s, Pagid RS29’s, or the DS2500’s.
- high performance fluid. Motul or Castrol.

Upgrades planning for later this year:
- GRP Lowering sleeves. However I want to know if anyone has tracked these with the touring suspension, and if so did these improve the cornering behaviour? I’ll be conscious of the car’s lean on standard suspension with the lower stance.
- Cold air intake. Either GRP or Eventuri.
- exhaust - might have to leave for now, as I am already breaching the sound limit on track with the stock exhaust, so will need to think about this.
- adjustable toe & camber arms. I’ve seen Aerie performance stock products for this, so will assess.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be super helpful.

I have looked at moving to Nitrons, but personally I feel the car has more to offer from minor mods before making the big jump to R1’s. Happy to hear conflicting opinions though 😊
 
Edit (I did also do 5 laps of the Nurburgring during the peak summer, but I won’t talk about that for now as that’s an entirely different beast)
 
Edit (I did also do 5 laps of the Nurburgring during the peak summer, but I won’t talk about that for now as that’s an entirely different beast)
Hi,

Im also a noob to the track,did silverstone in November (had done nurburgring years ago) and I've got Silverstone again next month.

Completely agree on the brakes point ,did 5 or 6 laps and had to let it cool,but notably the engine temp too.

I felt the Goodyears offered alot more grip than expected,but may consider the michelins.

One advice I would offer,I read on here that several people went for the EBC yellowstuff pads,so i got these fitted just, typically since then I've seen numerous people including Misha C say that they are not for the track!
If you do EBC, go for the blues.

I've also fitted the GRP harness bar, getting Schroths fitted next week.
I needed this as I was giving it some around Silverstone and felt myself sliding around the seat and constantly hitting the centre console.

Next upgrades will be the GRP cold air intake to help keep that engine cooler (no point in the Eventuri carbon as its covered anyway).

Also considering performance headers and the usual cat delete etc, but as you said,its already touching noise level limits so may have to scrap that.

Fluid I'll change to RBF at the service soon, May also consider better discs.

Apart from that its pretty awesome, I was considering massive upgrades but if I want to track more often,I may just get an old M4 or similar,rip seats out, cage, all the mods etc as a track toy.

May catch you on track one day
 
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Joining in here:

I’ve tracked my fully stock touring chassis Emira twice now here in the UK.

Running the Goodyears, with everything standard. Only change was getting the geo dialled in a little more, and it did make a nice difference on front end grip.

Few key notes:
- Both track days done at Bedford Autodrome. A mid-speed track in the UK. Both days done during the winter (November & January). First day very wet, 2nd day very dry but single digit temperatures (Celsius)
- front pads have been roasted to 20% life left. This is also after 8k miles.
- Tyres still 3mm on rear, 4mm on front.
- I am novice to track days, so got tuition both times and drastically improved my pace, understanding of the Emira’s dynamics, and overall track time improved.

Key takeaways:
- for a stock car, it surpassed my expectations for track performance.
- needs new brakes pads, and high performance fluid.
- touring chassis is very soft (yes we know this already..) but for a novice, it helped me understand where the weight was loading up, how the cars’ lean angle affected its grip and cornering speed, and how to improve my inputs to be smoother.
- front brakes faded after about 10-15 minutes of full-sending (about 5 laps), so required a couple of recovery laps to relax the car before sending it hard again.

Upgrades planned:
- Cup2’s all round. I won’t be tracking now until April, so the dryer and warmer weather will treat these well.
- upgraded pads. The rears are still fine imo, just the fronts. My local geo specialist recommended PFC’s, Pagid RS29’s, or the DS2500’s.
- high performance fluid. Motul or Castrol.

Upgrades planning for later this year:
- GRP Lowering sleeves. However I want to know if anyone has tracked these with the touring suspension, and if so did these improve the cornering behaviour? I’ll be conscious of the car’s lean on standard suspension with the lower stance.
- Cold air intake. Either GRP or Eventuri.
- exhaust - might have to leave for now, as I am already breaching the sound limit on track with the stock exhaust, so will need to think about this.
- adjustable toe & camber arms. I’ve seen Aerie performance stock products for this, so will assess.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be super helpful.

I have looked at moving to Nitrons, but personally I feel the car has more to offer from minor mods before making the big jump to R1’s. Happy to hear conflicting opinions though 😊
Much of the feedback is dependent on track level/pace.

* Switching from Goodyear to cup 2 is less about grip than destroying the Goodyear. At quicker paces, it will be destroyed very quickly.
* I personally found ebc blue to be insufficient for track duty. When they warmed up they warbled like crazy shaking the steering wheel.
* Suspension being too soft will be exacerbated by grippier tires.
 
Much of the feedback is dependent on track level/pace.

* Switching from Goodyear to cup 2 is less about grip than destroying the Goodyear. At quicker paces, it will be destroyed very quickly.
* I personally found ebc blue to be insufficient for track duty. When they warmed up they warbled like crazy shaking the steering wheel.
* Suspension being too soft will be exacerbated by grippier tires.
Interesting,what do you recommend instead of the ebc blue?
 
Interesting,what do you recommend instead of the ebc blue?
I have experience with 3 pads so far:
  • Stock (Ferodo DS2500): Decent stopping power, but they wear super fast, are super dusty, and most importantly for me they're squishy. The pad itself seems compressible or something because pedal throw length is really long.
  • EBC Blue: They don't fit the rear correct (overhang the rotor, build a lip that crumbles off). They warble when they get up to temperature. This is not a pad smearing or similar issue. I know other people that reported the same issue on Emira when using EBC blue. Stopping power was fine, they're cheap, but that warble really annoyed me.
  • Pagid RSL29: I didn't pick these out. I had a track day I forgot I registered for coming, and refused to go again with EBC blue. Someone local had these (thanks @kitkat) and I swapped them in right before the trackday. These have been great (maybe friction coefficient a bit too high for the Goodyears). Pedal is much firmer (they're less compressible). And the braking stays smooth through temperature. Only downside I've observed is squealing, but my car is purely canyon/track, so that's not a big problem for me.
 
I have experience with 3 pads so far:
  • Stock (Ferodo DS2500): Decent stopping power, but they wear super fast, are super dusty, and most importantly for me they're squishy. The pad itself seems compressible or something because pedal throw length is really long.
  • EBC Blue: They don't fit the rear correct (overhang the rotor, build a lip that crumbles off). They warble when they get up to temperature. This is not a pad smearing or similar issue. I know other people that reported the same issue on Emira when using EBC blue. Stopping power was fine, they're cheap, but that warble really annoyed me.
  • Pagid RSL29: I didn't pick these out. I had a track day I forgot I registered for coming, and refused to go again with EBC blue. Someone local had these (thanks @kitkat) and I swapped them in right before the trackday. These have been great (maybe friction coefficient a bit too high for the Goodyears). Pedal is much firmer (they're less compressible). And the braking stays smooth through temperature. Only downside I've observed is squealing, but my car is purely canyon/track, so that's not a big problem for me.
Thanks for the detailed response.
Interestingly I found the stock squealing and warping on high temperature, I was hoping the yellowstuffs would fix this,clearly not...

Appreciate the note though, I anticipated I'll be changing them after a few track days so pagids it is next time.

If anyone can share a link to the correct ones it would be greatly appreciated
 
Thanks for the detailed response.
Interestingly I found the stock squealing and warping on high temperature, I was hoping the yellowstuffs would fix this,clearly not...

Appreciate the note though, I anticipated I'll be changing them after a few track days so pagids it is next time.

If anyone can share a link to the correct ones it would be greatly appreciated

I've been loving the Pagid RSL 29 on track, Greg has them on his site.


Pick one set of "RSL29 S2 Front / Emira Front" and one set of "RSL29 Evora S1 Front / S2 Rear / Emira Rear".

Separately I've been also trying on street a set of Project Mu HC+, great pedal feel, stands up to canyon usage, tiny squeal when I haven't given it the business in a while and unfortunately loads of dust.
 
Upgrades planned:
- Cup2’s all round. I won’t be tracking now until April, so the dryer and warmer weather will treat these well.
- upgraded pads. The rears are still fine imo, just the fronts. My local geo specialist recommended PFC’s, Pagid RS29’s, or the DS2500’s.
- high performance fluid. Motul or Castrol.
Is there a PFC pad that fits? I run their pads on my other track cars/daily drivers but wasn't sure which pad designs from their website are correct. I'd probably look at 08 compound.

Along those lines, I have a dedicated race car, but have registered for a track day and will have my Emira as a backup. Since Yellowstuff pads are much less expensive than others and I don't intend to track my Emira often, would you guys think these would be sufficient? (SRF of course too).
 
Much of the feedback is dependent on track level/pace.

* Switching from Goodyear to cup 2 is less about grip than destroying the Goodyear. At quicker paces, it will be destroyed very quickly.
* I personally found ebc blue to be insufficient for track duty. When they warmed up they warbled like crazy shaking the steering wheel.
* Suspension being too soft will be exacerbated by grippier tires.

Reading this, you may have just solved all my issues! I went with RP-1s and can only get 3-4 laps out of them before I experience a heavy vibration under braking.

It feels like a warped rotor but goes away once cooled down. I’m glad I found this thread. Maybe it’s worth switching before investing money into rotors.
 
Reading this, you may have just solved all my issues! I went with RP-1s and can only get 3-4 laps out of them before I experience a heavy vibration under braking.

It feels like a warped rotor but goes away once cooled down. I’m glad I found this thread. Maybe it’s worth switching before investing money into rotors.
Based on this, I highly doubt you have "warped" rotors. Firstly, it takes a lot to deform cast iron rotors in terms of heat, and before you reach such consistent heat levels (>800 DegC) the pads will disintegrate. Pads that have much lower tolerance to heat will unevenly deposit materials onto rotors, which will create vibration.

If vibration goes away after cool down, your issue is certainly with the pads. For example, Pagid RSL29s will perform at their best between 500-700 DegC, beyond that they lose their effectiveness.
 
Based on this, I highly doubt you have "warped" rotors. Firstly, it takes a lot to deform cast iron rotors in terms of heat, and before you reach such consistent heat levels (>800 DegC) the pads will disintegrate. Pads that have much lower tolerance to heat will unevenly deposit materials onto rotors, which will create vibration.

If vibration goes away after cool down, your issue is certainly with the pads. For example, Pagid RSL29s will perform at their best between 500-700 DegC, beyond that they lose their effectiveness.
That’s my point I guess. I understand it’s not the rotor, but the feeling wasn’t making sense.

Time for a pad swap.
 
Reading this, you may have just solved all my issues! I went with RP-1s and can only get 3-4 laps out of them before I experience a heavy vibration under braking.

It feels like a warped rotor but goes away once cooled down. I’m glad I found this thread. Maybe it’s worth switching before investing money into rotors.
I have had this vibration happen when the pads are too aggressive for the rotors. Are they scoring the rotors? If not, then you need to clear the pad film on rotors by doing really hard braking at 80mph to 20mph three times, then let them cool down for a minute. Then repeat the 80 to 20mph braking method 2 more times and you shouldn’t feel the vibration anymore. Or you’re braking too hard at the end of the straight for too long.
 
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These are a step up from our street pads which a have tracked with better stopping power, no fade, and no scoring of the rotors.
I do have Castrol SRF brake fluid which is a must if you track at all!

  • Ferodo DS1.11 Brake Pads – A solid endurance-oriented Ferodo Racing compound.
    • Designed for frequent track duty with much better heat tolerance and fade resistance than DS2500.
    • More stable torque and pedal feel lap after lap, though a bit noisier and harsher on the street.
 
I have experience with 3 pads so far:
  • Stock (Ferodo DS2500): Decent stopping power, but they wear super fast, are super dusty, and most importantly for me they're squishy. The pad itself seems compressible or something because pedal throw length is really long.
  • EBC Blue: They don't fit the rear correct (overhang the rotor, build a lip that crumbles off). They warble when they get up to temperature. This is not a pad smearing or similar issue. I know other people that reported the same issue on Emira when using EBC blue. Stopping power was fine, they're cheap, but that warble really annoyed me.
  • Pagid RSL29: I didn't pick these out. I had a track day I forgot I registered for coming, and refused to go again with EBC blue. Someone local had these (thanks @kitkat) and I swapped them in right before the trackday. These have been great (maybe friction coefficient a bit too high for the Goodyears). Pedal is much firmer (they're less compressible). And the braking stays smooth through temperature. Only downside I've observed is squealing, but my car is purely canyon/track, so that's not a big problem for me.
I changed the brake pads on my Emira last summer to EBC Bluestuff NDX (and changed brake Fluid to Motul RBF 600 at the same time). During pad bedding in /conditioning there was noticeable noise (rumbling not squealing) & some vibration (warbling?). However, this has not returned since - though I have only done spirited road driving not track driving. I put the “warbling” noise down to the slots on the front discs catching the edges of the new pads. The alignment of the rear friction pads is slightly different to the standard factory fitted Frodo pads, but easily fixed by milling 1 mm off the bottom edge (otherwise the disc will cut into the pad and leave a small sliver that will eventually break off). I find the EBC blues are a big improvement over the stock Ferodo pads. Noticeably less dust, don’t grab at low speeds but really effective at higher speeds.
 
Is there a PFC pad that fits? I run their pads on my other track cars/daily drivers but wasn't sure which pad designs from their website are correct. I'd probably look at 08 compound.

Along those lines, I have a dedicated race car, but have registered for a track day and will have my Emira as a backup. Since Yellowstuff pads are much less expensive than others and I don't intend to track my Emira often, would you guys think these would be sufficient? (SRF of course too).
Yes, PFC pads are available. I run 15/08 and really like them.
 
I've been loving the Pagid RSL 29 on track, Greg has them on his site.


Pick one set of "RSL29 S2 Front / Emira Front" and one set of "RSL29 Evora S1 Front / S2 Rear / Emira Rear".

Separately I've been also trying on street a set of Project Mu HC+, great pedal feel, stands up to canyon usage, tiny squeal when I haven't given it the business in a while and unfortunately loads of dust.
How are the Project MU HC+ going. Seriously looking at trying them, Would you use them on track?
 

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