i4 DIY Oil Change

[Yukoncole]

Can you share where can I buy the drain plug that fits both T40 bit and 6mm Alan?

I would highly recommend this plug! - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMPN7B3?tag=emiraforum-20

The factory plug is way over-torqued, as others have mentioned, so be prepared and take your time, applying steady pressure until it breaks loose! No matter what, though, over time, the T40 or 6mm gets loose and hones out a bit. It's a really poor design for a drain plug!

 

[docron]

or just convert the drain plug to the Stahlbus. makes future oil changes much easier and less messy.

 

[Yukoncole]

or just convert the drain plug to the Stahlbus. makes future oil changes much easier and less messy.

Not at all a fan of those, you are introducing an additional potential point of leaking/failure. I installed one on my 69 Z-28 once, and that was the last time I ever did that lol - Furthermore, you lose all the benefits of the magnet

 

[Tvdmc]

Thank you all & Yukoncole.
Does this Mann filter below work for the 2024 Emira I4? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

MANN-FILTER HU 6008/1 Z Cartridge Oil Filter​

 

[Yukoncole]

Thank you all & Yukoncole.
Does this Mann filter below work for the 2024 Emira I4? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

MANN-FILTER HU 6008/1 Z Cartridge Oil Filter​

Should be the same, yes! I had a good experience with the purchase process here - https://www.ebay.com/itm/156916626889

Tossing likes on things helps your standings and mine

 

[Tvdmc]

There are so many M14x1.5 plugs on Amazon, how do one know which one is best for the Emira I4? Do the V6 & I4 use the same plug?

 

[Yukoncole]

There are so many M14x1.5 plugs on Amazon, how do one know which one is best for the Emira I4? Do the V6 & I4 use the same plug?

It’s pretty much preference, socket/wrench, Allen, Torx….they all work! The one I posted a link to came with a new copper crush washer and I was impressed with its quality….nice heavy weight metal and a magnet. Think of the magnet as another filter, it won’t catch a lot in a modern day engine as they are mostly aluminum but the piston sleeves, rings, and much more does wear and this will keep it out of your filter and if anything bad happens this will trap it and not let it circulate. So in the end, it’s all preference!

 

[Tvdmc]

Thank you for your quick reply Yukoncole!

 

[Yukoncole]

You’re welcome, we are on a road trip and I just happened to be looking at my email when you posted

 

[jebudd]

Ok, so there is no consolidated step by step DIY for the i4 so I did one this weekend. So I thought I would do a DIY guide. It's not hard or technical but maybe this will empower the owner on the fence.

1. Obtain replacement filter, crush washer and filter O-ring. I got mine from my local Parts Manager for as a kit for $104.27 (#8896381034). The crush washer was separate at $4.17 (#8896272188).

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2. Obtain 7 qts of oil. My local dealer does all the exotics so Parts Manager said this oil was what they used for their oil changes. 7 bottles was $91.

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3. Remove oil cap in engine bay and insert a funnel. The i4 does not have a dipstick so you will have to use the onboard screen widget to assess oil levels.

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4. Remove rear diffuser and rear underbody tray.

5. Locate oil drain plug. Be super careful as it is a T40 Torx bit but you have to seat bit in drain plug as far as it can go and go slow! Drain plug seems to be slightly larger than T40 as it wiggles if not completely seated and will slip with torque.

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6. Let oil drain. Replace (or reuse) crush washer on drain plug.

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7. Reinstall oil drain plug. Torque to 40nM or 32 ft-lbs.

Highly recommend going to Ravenol ECS 0w-20. This is a pure Grade IV oil that is PAO based rather than crude based like the Mobil 1 ESP 2. Since its pure PAO it does not coke or carbon up. It's expensive and must be imported but if you drive your engine hard I recommend to prevent these issues. It doesn't shear down regardless of heat. This oil is also MB 229.71 approved.