DIY: V6 Manual Transmission Fluid Change
- Thread starter jp129
- Start date
Had this done at my local shop I get all my maintenance and didn’t notice anything smoother. I was excited to do this based on what I’ve seen in this forum.
I used redline 75w80. Car has around 5500 miles. I do have GRP SS at max setting which has been on the car for almost 2 years. Anyways glad I had it done but dont get your hopes up that it will make shifting smoother, it didn’t on mine at least.
I used redline 75w80. Car has around 5500 miles. I do have GRP SS at max setting which has been on the car for almost 2 years. Anyways glad I had it done but dont get your hopes up that it will make shifting smoother, it didn’t on mine at least.
Changed my transmission fluid for first time over this past w/e. A few comments to add to this group discussion:
1. Unlike others, my transmission drain plug gasket wasn’t in good shape and had to be replaced. Unfortunately I didn’t have one so recommend everyone prepare ahead of time, for this possibility. I then had a tough time finding a replacement: parts stores rely on car models to find most things, and no one local to me stocks anything for the Emira, nor did Toyota have anything similar. I’d ask for a transmission gasket with a “rubber” inner ring, bonded to a metal outer ring, then I’d ask for ANYTHING like that, regardless of use. No one could help me. I finally talked to an older mechanic who told me this was a fairly common gasket that had been around for years, used on an engine oil drain plug. I purchased a set with 12 different sizes from Amazon. Search under “Dowty seal gasket O-rings” or “bonded seal washers” to find them. Or ask your parts store for engine oil drain plug gaskets, rather than focusing on the transmission application. This is for people like me who don’t have easy access to a Lotus dealership. Here’s a photo of mine showing the inner “rubber” torn:
2. I took a photo (attached, see right side) from the top of the engine, showing the 8mm bolt you need to remove, to pull out the hose on top of the transmission case, to check fluid level then refill it. This bolt is blocked by hoses and not readily seen.
Then here’s a photo showing the bolt and hose removed (left side), allowing access inside the transmission case:
I’ll add this: to clean the area around the bolt before opening up the top of the transmission, I used compressed air. It was far easier IMO to get my hose/fitting down near the transmission case, compared to dumping or spraying a bunch of liquid cleaning solution onto that area, from higher up. Something to consider for anyone with a compressor.
3. There’s silver firewall material on the engine compartment rear edge, which created a bit of a sharp edge for my arm reaching down. I duct-taped it to the rear edge to get it out of the way, which helped:
4. I attached orange hose from a transfer pump kit I had hanging around, to a measuring funnel, leaving the original funnel end to insert into the transmission case, since it’s clear and allowed me to watch the new transmission fluid flow down. There are many ways to do this, but this shows you one option. The funnel had an open/close setting so I could measure up to one quart of new fluid, before letting it drain, giving me easy control. Like others, I put in about 3 quarts, and that was after allowing the old fluid to drain out overnight.
5. I took a photo under the car, to point out what you’re looking for, to find the drain plug (see below). You cut the zip tie, roll back the silver asbestos cover, unsnap the electrical connection, then you unscrew the drain plug with a 22 mm open end wrench. I found my wrench too thick so it didn’t grab the drain plug well, resulting in some rounding of edges. The Emira has some nearby edges that impede movement of the wrench. For next time, I purchased a Harfington red shank/handle wrench off Amazon (see link below; hopefully it works), since it’s 1 mm less width, so I expect it’ll work better.
6. Glad I changed fluid after just over 2 years and 17,000 km. The old fluid was pretty black (see photo) and shifting becoming more difficult. It shifts better now.
Good luck and hope this helps out.
1. Unlike others, my transmission drain plug gasket wasn’t in good shape and had to be replaced. Unfortunately I didn’t have one so recommend everyone prepare ahead of time, for this possibility. I then had a tough time finding a replacement: parts stores rely on car models to find most things, and no one local to me stocks anything for the Emira, nor did Toyota have anything similar. I’d ask for a transmission gasket with a “rubber” inner ring, bonded to a metal outer ring, then I’d ask for ANYTHING like that, regardless of use. No one could help me. I finally talked to an older mechanic who told me this was a fairly common gasket that had been around for years, used on an engine oil drain plug. I purchased a set with 12 different sizes from Amazon. Search under “Dowty seal gasket O-rings” or “bonded seal washers” to find them. Or ask your parts store for engine oil drain plug gaskets, rather than focusing on the transmission application. This is for people like me who don’t have easy access to a Lotus dealership. Here’s a photo of mine showing the inner “rubber” torn:
2. I took a photo (attached, see right side) from the top of the engine, showing the 8mm bolt you need to remove, to pull out the hose on top of the transmission case, to check fluid level then refill it. This bolt is blocked by hoses and not readily seen.
Then here’s a photo showing the bolt and hose removed (left side), allowing access inside the transmission case:
I’ll add this: to clean the area around the bolt before opening up the top of the transmission, I used compressed air. It was far easier IMO to get my hose/fitting down near the transmission case, compared to dumping or spraying a bunch of liquid cleaning solution onto that area, from higher up. Something to consider for anyone with a compressor.
3. There’s silver firewall material on the engine compartment rear edge, which created a bit of a sharp edge for my arm reaching down. I duct-taped it to the rear edge to get it out of the way, which helped:
4. I attached orange hose from a transfer pump kit I had hanging around, to a measuring funnel, leaving the original funnel end to insert into the transmission case, since it’s clear and allowed me to watch the new transmission fluid flow down. There are many ways to do this, but this shows you one option. The funnel had an open/close setting so I could measure up to one quart of new fluid, before letting it drain, giving me easy control. Like others, I put in about 3 quarts, and that was after allowing the old fluid to drain out overnight.
5. I took a photo under the car, to point out what you’re looking for, to find the drain plug (see below). You cut the zip tie, roll back the silver asbestos cover, unsnap the electrical connection, then you unscrew the drain plug with a 22 mm open end wrench. I found my wrench too thick so it didn’t grab the drain plug well, resulting in some rounding of edges. The Emira has some nearby edges that impede movement of the wrench. For next time, I purchased a Harfington red shank/handle wrench off Amazon (see link below; hopefully it works), since it’s 1 mm less width, so I expect it’ll work better.
6. Glad I changed fluid after just over 2 years and 17,000 km. The old fluid was pretty black (see photo) and shifting becoming more difficult. It shifts better now.
Good luck and hope this helps out.
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This looks like someone before you sealed it with FIPG or some sort of RTV. This was the washer on the lower transmission drain bolt (where the sensor plugs in)?
Yup; that’s the one. Is there another type of washer/gasket used?? Maybe I just got “lucky” (lol) with what was put on my Emira. I’d appreciate others posting a photo/part number for anything different.
If others have something different, this likely explains the fun I had. Looking on the Web, I came up with a Lotus part #A132F6170S with a "Toyota equivalent" part #90430-18008 or 90430-A0003, however those look to be a single metal washer/gasket and not the bonded 2-material washer/gasket I found on my car.
If other 6-speed manual Emira owners use a different "one-metal regular type", then the question is whether I replace mine, with something similar (2 materials) or revert back to the "regular one". I expect I should go with what was there orginally, in case my transmission fluid leaked at factory, causing them to install a 2 material version...
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Thanks cst. I considered the "crowfeet" but they looked just as wide. I also looked at the flare nut wrenches, but they were wider.
Getting back to the Emira transmission drain plug washer/gasket, here's what my dealer told me in an email today:
"The part number started at A132F6170 and then superseded to A132F6170S.
There is no image in the catalogue to confirm but I do believe it’s a standard crush washer without the rubber.
We don’t stock items like this, we have universal crush washer kits in metal and copper for when our techs do fluid changes like this."
That looks like black rtv was added to the sensor side. The other side up against the transmission housing was clean.
I don't think it's rtv (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone. When I first took the washer off, the "rubber" portion had a uniform bead all the way around it, suggesting it was manufactured and not separately applied with the original crush washer. However it was breaking off in pieces, which only got worse when I "unscrewed" the washer over the bolt threads, to take it off. So I agree with jp129 that it's a dowty washer. The mechanic I spoke with said it's superior, in his opinion, to just a plain metal crush washer. Given what my dealer is telling me, I suspect it's OK to use just the plain metal washer.
Unfortunately, finding this dowty washer on my Emira, has sent me down a different pathway and hopefully these posts will help the next person who finds one.
Do u have the link for which brand and size u ordered?
- Thread starter
- #75
I see it now. How about this one? OD is 26mm which is what the one you pulled out looks to be.
www.anhosefittings.com
RaceFlux Dowty Bonded Sealing Washer, for M18 Threads
10 minimum order quantity per size
www.anhosefittings.com
- Thread starter
- #77
I see it now. How about this one? OD is 26mm which is what the one you pulled out looks to be.
View attachment 86360
RaceFlux Dowty Bonded Sealing Washer, for M18 Threads
10 minimum order quantity per size
That looks very similar, if not, identical to what I used.
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