DIY: V6 Manual Transmission Fluid Change

Sure, let's give it a go!

This ZIP file contains only the STL for the transmission dipstick I designed.
I printed this upside-down out of (white) PLA with support generation enabled for the flange.

It worked perfectly. The inset rings are set at 10mm increments for a visual fluid gauge.
Perfect print with supports :)
Thanks
 

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For Emira-compatible transmission fluid, my local "fluid wholesaler" (that sold me my OEM-recommended Total Quartz 9000 0W-40 engine oil) is telling me that Shell Spirax S6 GXME 75w-80, can be used for my manual transmission Emira. Snooping on the Web, I note that NAPA Auto Parts, lists this oil and says it's compatible with a 2023 Lotus Emira (same transmission as my 2024), along with some Alpha Romao, Aston Martin and BMW models, to name a few others that have higher performance engines. That said, it's not a transmission oil I see anyone else reference on this thread or elsewhere on the Forum.

I've looked at the Technical Data Sheet for the Shell Spirax. It confirms an "API Service Classification GL-4" and describes its main application as "automotive transmissions: synchromesh gearboxes, including those with integrated retarders, and medium loaded axle drives where mineral or synthetic gear oils are required." So far so good.

Any thoughts?

Before you ask why, I paid about Can$10.00/quart for my engine oil, taxes and environmental fees included, which was a very good price. I expect the Shell Spirax will be far less expensive than the Amsoil or Red Line but obviously a cheaper fluid that damages the transmission (ie. on a hot track day), isn't worth it. OR perhaps ANY GL-4 with the correct 75W-80/90 viscosity will be OK? Any advice appreciated.

PS: I'd like to personally thank the OP jp129 for the "DIY tutorial" that started this thread. I've done similar DIY's (w. photos) so know the time/effort that goes into posting them. Great job creating an excellent DIY resource!!
 
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Could I request an admin to sticky this?
 
For Emira-compatible transmission fluid, my local "fluid wholesaler" (that sold me my OEM-recommended Total Quartz 9000 0W-40 engine oil) is telling me that Shell Spirax S6 GXME 75w-80, can be used for my manual transmission Emira. Snooping on the Web, I note that NAPA Auto Parts, lists this oil and says it's compatible with a 2023 Lotus Emira (same transmission as my 2024), along with some Alpha Romao, Aston Martin and BMW models, to name a few others that have higher performance engines. That said, it's not a transmission oil I see anyone else reference on this thread or elsewhere on the Forum.

I've looked at the Technical Data Sheet for the Shell Spirax. It confirms an "API Service Classification GL-4" and describes its main application as "automotive transmissions: synchromesh gearboxes, including those with integrated retarders, and medium loaded axle drives where mineral or synthetic gear oils are required." So far so good.

Any thoughts?

Before you ask why, I paid about Can$10.00/quart for my engine oil, taxes and environmental fees included, which was a very good price. I expect the Shell Spirax will be far less expensive than the Amsoil or Red Line but obviously a cheaper fluid that damages the transmission (ie. on a hot track day), isn't worth it. OR perhaps ANY GL-4 with the correct 75W-80/90 viscosity will be OK? Any advice appreciated.

PS: I'd like to personally thank the OP jp129 for the "DIY tutorial" that started this thread. I've done similar DIY's (w. photos) so know the time/effort that goes into posting them. Great job creating an excellent DIY resour

You bought a 100K sports car and are concerned about spending $70 to change the gear oil? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041EDM6U?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1
 
You bought a 100K sports car and are concerned about spending $70 to change the gear oil? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041EDM6U?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1
FWIW and since you commented djprov431:

1. I track my Emira and like to do "maintenance overkill" to be on the safe side, so I do oil/filter and brake fluid changes too soon. In other words, I plan to keep this car for awhile and do many transmission fluid changes and all maintenance costs add up. I like doing my own servicing and accessory installation and have purchased far too many things already for this vehicle, especially if you listen to my spouse who has zero understanding for anything sports car related.

2. Sure, some might see me as a "cheap SOB" when I"d rather spend my dough on other things, such as overseas travel with my spouse/family, dinner tonight with my spouse returning from her 1-week ski trip, etc. etc., if I can buy something that works well for less. I'm heading into retirement so will soon lose the benefit of my full-time salary, but that's all my own affair and I don't question how others spend their hard-earned dough. Ironically, I don't even know the pricing for this Shell fluid and won't ask, unless I determine it's appropriate (lol).

3. I prefer the convenience of buying locally, such as with the fluid wholesaler I've dealt with for many years and many vehicles, which is another reason unrelated to pricing I'd like to buy this product from him, if it's the proper quality.

4. Finally, I look forward to a reply about this particular transmission fluid and its suitability for Emira track use, in particular, should anyone know the answer. If nothing else, hopefully I've constructively contributed to this thread by identifying another fluid option for people or if not, identified one to avoid. TY.
 
GL4 transmission fluid would work great.

GL4 spec has friction modifiers to allow the syncros to work properly. I've been using a GL4 75w-90 and it's been fine. No out of the normal behaviors and when the fluid was new, the gear shifts were extremely smooth/slick. If you're tracking the car, 75w-90 will be fine. I've put 7 tracks days since the last change and will be changing again soon.

A few folks in houston has been running Redline MT-90 with great results as well. If you want something closer to spec, run the MTL or GL4 75-80.
 
GL4 transmission fluid would work great.

GL4 spec has friction modifiers to allow the syncros to work properly. I've been using a GL4 75w-90 and it's been fine. No out of the normal behaviors and when the fluid was new, the gear shifts were extremely smooth/slick. If you're tracking the car, 75w-90 will be fine. I've put 7 tracks days since the last change and will be changing again soon.

A few folks in houston has been running Redline MT-90 with great results as well. If you want something closer to spec, run the MTL or GL4 75-80.
In my Evora (which is essentially the same trans), I would change the gearbox/rear diff oil annually regardless of miles driven (although I averaged 8-12k a year). I also averaged maybe 2-3 track days a year. Every time I changed it, it came out disgustingly dirty and the shifter always felt better afterwards.

It seemed like a no brainer to me along with the brake clutch fluid that was done every 6 months due to the shitty slave cylinder placement that cooked the hydraulic fluid.
 
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Agreed. Something about trans fluid, that nice slick shift feeling doesn't stick around that long. It's like that with ALL my manual cars, regardless of gearbox type, config, or fluid. So I also change out very early, usually around 6k miles. But I track alot too so that beats up the fluids.
 
If you end up changing the fluids often is it recommended to change the fill and drain plugs? Anyone know the part numbers?
 
Fill is just an oring on the return port. The drain likely needs to be changed because the dowty seal gets torn. I just use M18 dowty seal
 
I have a kind of silly question but... when going with the slightly higher viscosity fluid, did anyone notice a change in that diesel-truck lagging sound the transmission makes at like 1.5-2.5k in these cars? I ask because, I've had 2 Evoras and now my Emira, and have always found that particular sound a little annoying. And when I changed one of my previous Evora's fluid to Redline, while it felt really good for a while, it actually made that particular noise noticeably worse (I'm guessing because while redline offers superior shear protection, it's probably not as think or cushy as the organic stuff... I've noticed the noise is barely there when cold).

So, curious whether heavier viscosity changed it at all for any of you... or if y'all ever cared enough to notice :P which I know some people don't care at all.
 
I’d be interested in this. I HATE that noise, annoys me every time!
 
I did this DIY this morning and it was straight forward.

The only corrections I’d want to make are you don’t need to remove the diffuser panel, it’s not required or helpful in any way.

The only tricky part here is getting a hand on the 8mm fill port bolt, I cracked mine loose and snaked my hand down there sitting in the trunk to hand turn it off to make sure I didn’t lose the bolt. Expect some scratches on your hand/arm unless you wear an elbow long protective glove or something.

Be warned, I met a guy locally who did this DIY and lost the bolt into the fill hole he thinks. His car made absolutely disgusting clunking sounds in reverse after. New transmission time 🥺
 
Be warned, I met a guy locally who did this DIY and lost the bolt into the fill hole he thinks. His car made absolutely disgusting clunking sounds in reverse after. New transmission time 🥺
Note to self: Remove bolt from engine bay before removing tube.
 
Yes, don't remove diffuser. I undid the shifter cable bracket just to move the cable over a little to have more room. Took exactly 3 liters in mine (measured what I removed).
 
How’s the Amsoil 75w90 API GL-4 holding up? @jp129 I know you said your friends run redline any difference in the 2 brands that you noticed if you been in both car?

So is everyone changing in-line filter or no?
 
How’s the Amsoil 75w90 API GL-4 holding up? @jp129 I know you said your friends run redline any difference in the 2 brands that you noticed if you been in both car?

So is everyone changing in-line filter or no?
The Amsoil 75w90 has been holding up good. I changed the fluid once I had 6K miles on it (quite a few track days in this interval) to see if I could replicate the shift feel with new fluid, but this time around it wasn't as prounounced. Some of the Houston folks are running Redline and they're pretty happy with it.

I have a case of Redline MT90 that I'll try on the next change to see if there's any preceivable differences.

I didn't change the inline filter.
 
The Amsoil 75w90 has been holding up good. I changed the fluid once I had 6K miles on it (quite a few track days in this interval) to see if I could replicate the shift feel with new fluid, but this time around it wasn't as prounounced. Some of the Houston folks are running Redline and they're pretty happy with it.

I have a case of Redline MT90 that I'll try on the next change to see if there's any preceivable differences.

I didn't change the inline filter.
When is the inline filter needed to be changed? Also do we have a part number for it.

Lotus advises to change it with the oil change but that could be at the recommended intervals at 2 years or 20k miles. The early intervals for us specific folks who like taking care of there cars might not be worth it till that “standard” time but want to get people’s experiences and advice.
 
Granted you are adding the same as you remove but Is it good practice to start the car and warm it up then recheck the fluid level? I Need to do it on the PDK service for a 911. We always have to top it off atfter it gets to temp and run thru the gears on the lift
 

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