Emira JB4 Tuning Now Available for I4 & V6 Cars!

Grommet? Where?
Do I need to remove the black plastic too?View attachment 69240
Screenshot 2025-08-17 at 1.46.01 AM.webp

It's behind the plastic where the green arrow is pointing to. Unless your hands are small, I found it easier to reach (and replace) after I removed the fuse box covers which are the 2 pieces covered in white sticky paper. Push the small triangular piece on the bottom towards the back and rotate it around to the right to get it loose, then you can push the tab clips (the bottom piece was covering one of them) to release the big top cover, one on the bottom and top side towards the front of the car to remove the big top piece. It WAS a bear to get it back in. You have to pop the top cover in first, then rotate the small bottom back over to where it goes. It has to slide over a ridge on the lower part of the big top cover.

Use a short flat blade screwdriver to get under the lip of the rubber grommet plug to pop it out.
 
All the problem for jb4 obd2 cable is because the plug. The wire itself will fit through. I will try to cut off the plug then once I get the wire through from the tune box to the cabin, I will solider the wires.
 
anyone using the new JB4 Pro app (with the new wire module you swap out on your JB4) what process are you doing to successfully clear codes? I can read them with the engine running (jb4 app doesnt connect in accessory mode) when I hit delete code I get a "sent codes for deletion" then...I don't know what to do after. A restart and the codes are still there. Any help greatly appreciated! (I also wrote to Terry if he replies will post explanation here)
 
For those that have mods on their car and want to know if the JB4 unit has to be flash tuned for them to be effective. Burgers answe below to my email.



It is not typically necessary to make adjustments for bolt on modifications of this type as the vehicle already takes advantage of any added air flow, and we typically recommend running the map that matches your available fuel octane, but feel free to send us some full throttle datalogs to review when possible and we can recommend any settings changes needed.

To capture a datalog, connect to the JB4 app, press the Log button or "Start Logging", then capture a full throttle pull, preferably 40-90mph on a safe private track, with shifts, then press the Log button again or "Stop Logging". Go to the logs tab and email us the newest log file at the top of the list by pressing the log and selecting Email. Send to this address please.
Best,
Burger Motorsports Support
 
Another independent dyno testing of JB4 to add to the repo

Fuel:
93oct pump in TX
Shop temp: 96-98F
Dyno: Dynojet

Modifications:
1) 3rd Cat delete
2) Miltek EVC set to fully open
3) Aftermarket wheels that are 6lbs/wheel lighter than OEM diamond cut wheels

Testing Scenario:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled
2) JB4 - Map 0
3) JB4 - Map 1
4) JB4 - Map 2
5) JB4 - Map 2 + GRP Dry flow blue filter

Misc info:
-Fan placed in the front of the car and fan on the intake scoop.

-Runs were performed back to back, with the last Map 2 run (shown) allowed to sit for 15-20mins to cool.
-Air filter dyno pull was performed about 15 mins after as I R/R'd the filter.

-JB4 OBD2 connector was connected and reading.

Results summary in SAE Correction:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled - 354 whp/312wtq
2) JB4 - Map 0 - 357/313
3) JB4 - Map 1 - 390/326 ~36 whp gain
4) JB4 - Map 2 - 397/328~43whp gain
5) JB4 - Map 2 + Dry flow air filter - 396/331 ~no significant top end gains, only see very marginal gains in the low/mid range

1755990650342.webp


Dry flow air filter comparison

1755990661489.webp
 
anyone using the new JB4 Pro app (with the new wire module you swap out on your JB4) what process are you doing to successfully clear codes? I can read them with the engine running (jb4 app doesnt connect in accessory mode) when I hit delete code I get a "sent codes for deletion" then...I don't know what to do after. A restart and the codes are still there. Any help greatly appreciated! (I also wrote to Terry if he replies will post explanation here)
I am using jb4 pro app, but I have a specialized obd2 reader to clear code.
 

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Another independent dyno testing of JB4 to add to the repo

Fuel:
93oct pump in TX
Shop temp: 96-98F
Dyno: Dynojet

Modifications:
1) 3rd Cat delete
2) Miltek EVC set to fully open
3) Aftermarket wheels that are 6lbs/wheel lighter than OEM diamond cut wheels

Testing Scenario:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled
2) JB4 - Map 0
3) JB4 - Map 1
4) JB4 - Map 2
5) JB4 - Map 2 + GRP Dry flow blue filter

Misc info:
-Fan placed in the front of the car and fan on the intake scoop.

-Runs were performed back to back, with the last Map 2 run (shown) allowed to sit for 15-20mins to cool.
-Air filter dyno pull was performed about 15 mins after as I R/R'd the filter.

-JB4 OBD2 connector was connected and reading.

Results summary in SAE Correction:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled - 354 whp/312wtq
2) JB4 - Map 0 - 357/313
3) JB4 - Map 1 - 390/326 ~36 whp gain
4) JB4 - Map 2 - 397/328~43whp gain
5) JB4 - Map 2 + Dry flow air filter - 396/331 ~no significant top end gains, only see very marginal gains in the low/mid range

View attachment 69526

Dry flow air filter comparison

View attachment 69527
Which wheels are you running and what sizes are they?
 
Which wheels are you running and what sizes are they?
 
Another independent dyno testing of JB4 to add to the repo

Fuel:
93oct pump in TX
Shop temp: 96-98F
Dyno: Dynojet

Modifications:
1) 3rd Cat delete
2) Miltek EVC set to fully open
3) Aftermarket wheels that are 6lbs/wheel lighter than OEM diamond cut wheels

Testing Scenario:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled
2) JB4 - Map 0
3) JB4 - Map 1
4) JB4 - Map 2
5) JB4 - Map 2 + GRP Dry flow blue filter

Misc info:
-Fan placed in the front of the car and fan on the intake scoop.

-Runs were performed back to back, with the last Map 2 run (shown) allowed to sit for 15-20mins to cool.
-Air filter dyno pull was performed about 15 mins after as I R/R'd the filter.

-JB4 OBD2 connector was connected and reading.

Results summary in SAE Correction:
1) Stock with JB4 uninstalled - 354 whp/312wtq
2) JB4 - Map 0 - 357/313
3) JB4 - Map 1 - 390/326 ~36 whp gain
4) JB4 - Map 2 - 397/328~43whp gain
5) JB4 - Map 2 + Dry flow air filter - 396/331 ~no significant top end gains, only see very marginal gains in the low/mid range

View attachment 69526

Dry flow air filter comparison

View attachment 69527
Any explanations why the Burger car got 50 more whp than yours? I’m starting to understand now why so many want to dyno their cars. I even switched my JB4 of on my drive this morning, and then switched back to map2 just to check what I am now use to is still there. And hell yes..it’s still all there.
Would be nice to know why we haven’t reproduced the 95 whp gain that Burger got. Currently, the gains range from zero to 44 whp.
 
Any explanations why the Burger car got 50 more whp than yours? I’m starting to understand now why so many want to dyno their cars. I even switched my JB4 of on my drive this morning, and then switched back to map2 just to check what I am now use to is still there. And hell yes..it’s still all there.
Would be nice to know why we haven’t reproduced the 95 whp gain that Burger got. Currently, the gains range from zero to 44 whp.
If you're asking about the baseline stock HP number that number will be different on most dynos and is kind of irrelevant, as you stated were after the delta after tuning. Also different cars on the same dyno would be helpful but even then it's really the delta that matters (if that's what you're asking). On my I4 I think baseline my shop for on their dyno was 360? Something like that they're all going to show a different number based on the type of dyno and variables that day
 
Any explanations why the Burger car got 50 more whp than yours? I’m starting to understand now why so many want to dyno their cars. I even switched my JB4 of on my drive this morning, and then switched back to map2 just to check what I am now use to is still there. And hell yes..it’s still all there.
Would be nice to know why we haven’t reproduced the 95 whp gain that Burger got. Currently, the gains range from zero to 44 whp.

That's a question for Burger. I surmise their answer will be, there are too many variables to determine the exact causes, etc.

Based on the independent testing posted up on the forum, I don't believe I've seen anyone with the claimed 95whp gain on 93 pump yet, aside from Burger's test car. I see ~40's and ~60whp gains thus far.

Without understanding what the OEM ECU is doing, it's all speculative at this point. I will be retesting with some ethanol blends and another retest in the winter when the temps are lower for some data.

Unless other owners can validate certain ECU behavior's before.
 
I am using jb4 pro app, but I have a specialized obd2 reader to clear code.
1.my app only connects when the car is moving (weird) do you see that behavior?

2.arw you able to use the app to clear codes? I can't, using a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner to clear right now but a minor pain unplugging the jb4 OBD2 cable each time
 
If you're asking about the baseline stock HP number that number will be different on most dynos and is kind of irrelevant, as you stated were after the delta after tuning. Also different cars on the same dyno would be helpful but even then it's really the delta that matters (if that's what you're asking). On my I4 I think baseline my shop for on their dyno was 360? Something like that they're all going to show a different number based on the type of dyno and variables that day
i agree. But what I am asking, is why only 44whp difference from base to map2 on this particular run. Burger showed base to map2 being 95whp difference. Watch the video. This figure was achieved from base to map 2 on the same dyno, in the same condition, on the same day. Were they bullshitting and faking it? I don`t think that`s who they are. So I would have thought that if someone strapped their car on the dyno and measured map zero and got (say) 300 whp, then you would expect map 2 to show 395 or there about, wouldn`t you say?
 
The map1 vs. map2 results are interesting from the recent dyno run from @jp129. I can tell you this, I feel a considerable difference between map1 and map2 on 93 octane here in NC with the mods in my signature. Something must be different and could be a combination of the lack of full aftermarket intake, relatively hot ambient conditions, fuel quality, etc. As for myself and from many other reports on here, there should be quite a significant jump from map1 to map2 on 93 fuel.
 

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