Emira track impressions

[NorCalEmira]

Look no farther than formula 1 for the apex of engineering. Mid engined (ahead of the rear axle)with a significant rearward weight bias is what you'll find.

 

[gcmak]

Using all the track, love to see it.
Driver knows how to be patient and get the car to rotate too, really nice.

 

[Tracked Emira]

Greg emailed me today that hopefully adjustable upper control arms may be ready by the end of the month.

 

[seriously]

Greg emailed me today that hopefully adjustable upper control arms may be ready by the end of the month.

I assume this is an impactful mod. I’m surprised this is so little camber flexibility out of the box.

 

[OppositeLock]

So, on a different topic, I logged my coolant temperature (OBD-II ECT channel in AIM). We had 102F outdoor temperature, and I was pushing hard. The coolant temperature started out around 195F at the beginning of a session, over a couple laps rose to 211F and then stayed between 211F and 219F for the remainder of the session.

The entire time, the instrument cluster display showed a flat 200F.

So, now, I have definitive proof that this car has "idiot gauges" which don't show real temperature, but rather a faked one to make you feel secure or something.

 

[jp129]

You have AIM hooked up to your car? What protocol are you using and do you get majority of the channels available? I see the Evora as an available protocol in RS3, but curious what protocol gets you the most data.

My data from an ELM OBD2 dongle and racechrono backs up your observation about the ECT display. I too only see 200F on the dash even when racechrono sees 200F beyond. I'd like to wire in an AIM SOLO 2 DL but wanted to see what data streams we can capture.

 

[OppositeLock]

I'm just using the OBD-II feature in the Solo 2 DL, generic CAN, and it works great. It supports limited channels; RPM, Speed, TPS, PPS, ECT, IAT, Fuel Level, MAF, MAP.

There's no Emira specific mapping of ID's, so maybe the car exports more. I've not had time to investigate.

 

[jp129]

Is boost pressure, afr, or ign timing available?

I have a lot of hours on the AIM PDM32, but new and ignorant to the Solo line. I suspect it's all in the RS3 config like the PDM32?

 

[OppositeLock]

MAP gets you boost pressure if you can figure out what the ambient pressure is (it's related to temperature and altitude). In my car, it goes from ~2 (meaning -12psi vacuum) to 20 (meaning about 6psi of boost) on the track.

Yes, Solo2 DL is like any other full featured AIM product, it's got the same expansions, works with the data hubs, it's just not a dash. It's fully configurable via RS3. If you can figure out the CAN ID's you want to log in the Emira, you can create a "Custom" ECU which requests those channels via the OBD/CAN protocols, I just don't know what they are.

 

[jp129]

Thank you for confirming. Looks like I'll move fwd with the Solo then. I swear this forum just bleeds my wallet dry

 

[gcmak]

So, on a different topic, I logged my coolant temperature (OBD-II ECT channel in AIM). We had 102F outdoor temperature, and I was pushing hard. The coolant temperature started out around 195F at the beginning of a session, over a couple laps rose to 211F and then stayed between 211F and 219F for the remainder of the session.

The entire time, the instrument cluster display showed a flat 200F.

So, now, I have definitive proof that this car has "idiot gauges" which don't show real temperature, but rather a faked one to make you feel secure or something.

I also noticed a discrepancy between the screen + what my solo was displaying (one of my Solo screens is setup to monitor vitals). I have the i4 Emira. Separately, on the road I have a bluetooth OBD reader which connects to my phone and there's a CarPlay app...it also shows different values from OBD vs dash.

In the very few reported cases of a coolant line rupture on the i4s, the owners reported temps that suddenly go from normal to red overheat. I'm more inclined to think Lotus has just programmed the display to be vague.

 

[OppositeLock]

It's standard to program displays (even analog gauges, which are all just digitally driven) to display a consistent temperature, voltage, whatever, because people are silly and complain to dealers if it ever deviates from the center. If something is actually wrong, idiot mode turns off and it shows you that there's a problem, but it's not useful in letting you know whether you're on the upper or lower side of normal. I, for one, would like to see if I'm approaching the red before it happens. Without intermediate readings, an idiot gauge is just a warning light.