Emira JB4 Tuning Now Available for I4 & V6 Cars!

Eagle7 · Monday at 5:41 PM

Tomwa said:
I made mistakes and thought I was lined up on the front bolt while threading it in, and got frustrated with the bracket flopping around, so removed the rear bolt. Only to hear a thunk as the bracket settled and moved. I struggled, tried to manipulate the trunk-lid to re-align.

Ended up popping the Vent panel off so I could see the bolt holes better and know where the screw was coming in from. Highly recommend that if you are struggling.

View attachment 67910

How did you pop the vent panel off? Is it just clipped in place?

Eagle7 · Monday at 9:10 PM

Well I got lucky and found the bolt. After removing the Eventuri I was able to see better. and it was sitting down in between two hoses, so I was able to retrieve it with a flexible magnet wand. I was finally able to get the bracket installed, but I'm pretty sure the socket that dropped went all the way down to the under pan on the bottom, so I'm still going to have to get the Quickjack and lift the car to remove the under pan.

Since I had the Eventuri out anyways, I went ahead and did something I'd been thinking about with all the discussion about increased heat in the engine bay due to the increased performance. I heat foil wrapped 2/3 of the body, the part that holds the air filter and the MAF. It's a shame to cover the beautiful carbon fiber, but unfortunately where the unit sits you can't see it anyways so it really doesn't matter. The beautiful shape is also surprisingly awkward to wrap, so I did it in many small strips, but it got the job done.

Tomwa · Tuesday at 1:38 AM

Eagle7 said:
How did you pop the vent panel off? Is it just clipped in place?

Yes it's just friction clipped in place. Start at the top near the roof and find an edge (pry tools if you must but I just used fingers) work an edge and just pull up gently and it will come surprisingly easy.

ebarke · Thursday at 11:18 AM

Eagle7 said:
Well I got lucky and found the bolt. After removing the Eventuri I was able to see better. and it was sitting down in between two hoses, so I was able to retrieve it with a flexible magnet wand. I was finally able to get the bracket installed, but I'm pretty sure the socket that dropped went all the way down to the under pan on the bottom, so I'm still going to have to get the Quickjack and lift the car to remove the under pan.

Since I had the Eventuri out anyways, I went ahead and did something I'd been thinking about with all the discussion about increased heat in the engine bay due to the increased performance. I heat foil wrapped 2/3 of the body, the part that holds the air filter and the MAF. It's a shame to cover the beautiful carbon fiber, but unfortunately where the unit sits you can't see it anyways so it really doesn't matter. The beautiful shape is also surprisingly awkward to wrap, so I did it in many small strips, but it got the job done.

View attachment 67923

Do you think wrapping will make much of a difference? Got me thinking that maybe I should do the same for my GRP intake before I install it?

silent cilantro · Thursday at 11:22 AM

@Payam@BMS any progress finding a CANbus signal somewhere in the engine bay? I haven't caught up with the thread so apologies if this was already answered.

Eagle7 · Thursday at 1:10 PM

ebarke said:
Do you think wrapping will make much of a difference? Got me thinking that maybe I should do the same for my GRP intake before I install it?

The engine bay gets really hot, and that's just stock from the factory. Adding more power and performance isn't going to make it cooler. I noticed how hot it really gets when I was adding heat reflect material under the trunk, since it gets so hot in the trunk. I thought it was mostly from the muffler below it, but when measuring with a laser thermometer I noticed the back wall of the trunk was 100 degrees. The trunk floor was 84 (what I had done had made a difference) but the back is also quite hot, and that's with a factory heat shield in front of the back.

I've been thinking about heat shielding the Eventuri ever since, and decided to go ahead and do it. I had already heat foil wrapped the intake tube from the Eventuri to the supercharger, so now everything facing the engine compartment is wrapped. With the JB4 measuring incoming air temps, and with their app I can easily see it on my iphone now, I figured it can't hurt.

I've even wrapped the JB4 unit, since where it's mounted is in the heat flow stream from the engine bay up through the vents above it. I know electronic components and heat do not go well together. The roll of heat reflect tape I had bought had a lot of extra after wrapping the tube to the supercharger, so I've been using it where I think it might make a difference.

Since you can't see the air intake housing from outside the car anyways, I'd say wrap it. It can only help, especially if you're poking along in slow stop-and-go traffic, or just sitting at idle.

benjh1028 · Thursday at 1:43 PM

Eagle7 said:
The engine bay gets really hot, and that's just stock from the factory. Adding more power and performance isn't going to make it cooler. I noticed how hot it really gets when I was adding heat reflect material under the trunk, since it gets so hot in the trunk. I thought it was mostly from the muffler below it, but when measuring with a laser thermometer I noticed the back wall of the trunk was 100 degrees. The trunk floor was 84 (what I had done had made a difference) but the back is also quite hot, and that's with a factory heat shield in front of the back.

I've been thinking about heat shielding the Eventuri ever since, and decided to go ahead and do it. I had already heat foil wrapped the intake tube from the Eventuri to the supercharger, so now everything facing the engine compartment is wrapped. With the JB4 measuring incoming air temps, and with their app I can easily see it on my iphone now, I figured it can't hurt.

I've even wrapped the JB4 unit, since where it's mounted is in the heat flow stream from the engine bay up through the vents above it. I know electronic components and heat do not go well together. The roll of heat reflect tape I had bought had a lot of extra after wrapping the tube to the supercharger, so I've been using it where I think it might make a difference.

Since you can't see the air intake housing from outside the car anyways, I'd say wrap it. It can only help, especially if you're poking along in slow stop-and-go traffic, or just sitting at idle.

View attachment 68022

Looks like you're smuggling gold bars fresh from the mint!

K_Squared · 2025-07-25T08:37:04-0500

Eagle7 said:
The engine bay gets really hot, and that's just stock from the factory. Adding more power and performance isn't going to make it cooler. I noticed how hot it really gets when I was adding heat reflect material under the trunk, since it gets so hot in the trunk. I thought it was mostly from the muffler below it, but when measuring with a laser thermometer I noticed the back wall of the trunk was 100 degrees. The trunk floor was 84 (what I had done had made a difference) but the back is also quite hot, and that's with a factory heat shield in front of the back.

I've been thinking about heat shielding the Eventuri ever since, and decided to go ahead and do it. I had already heat foil wrapped the intake tube from the Eventuri to the supercharger, so now everything facing the engine compartment is wrapped. With the JB4 measuring incoming air temps, and with their app I can easily see it on my iphone now, I figured it can't hurt.

I've even wrapped the JB4 unit, since where it's mounted is in the heat flow stream from the engine bay up through the vents above it. I know electronic components and heat do not go well together. The roll of heat reflect tape I had bought had a lot of extra after wrapping the tube to the supercharger, so I've been using it where I think it might make a difference.

Since you can't see the air intake housing from outside the car anyways, I'd say wrap it. It can only help, especially if you're poking along in slow stop-and-go traffic, or just sitting at idle.

View attachment 68022

Did you have a chance to test the JB4 yet? I've been following your posts and am eager to hear your feedback. I've had my JB4 sitting on a shelf for many weeks now and just haven't had the time to install and test it. I also installed the Eventuri a few weeks ago and LOVE the difference in sound and to me the power increase is noticeable after a hundred miles or so as you had stated. I also have the GRP 3rd cat delete and milltek valve controller so I think our setups are very similar. Thanks!

K_Squared · 2025-07-25T09:10:33-0500

K_Squared said:
Did you have a chance to test the JB4 yet? I've been following your posts and am eager to hear your feedback. I've had my JB4 sitting on a shelf for many weeks now and just haven't had the time to install and test it. I also installed the Eventuri a few weeks ago and LOVE the difference in sound and to me the power increase is noticeable after a hundred miles or so as you had stated. I also have the GRP 3rd cat delete and milltek valve controller so I think our setups are very similar. Thanks!

Disregard, I saw your post in Kitkat's install thread. Very cool. I might install mine today

Eagle7 · 2025-07-25T13:24:04-0500

K_Squared said:
Disregard, I saw your post in Kitkat's install thread. Very cool. I might install mine today

Put a towel on top of the Eventuri, and underneath the bracket mount location, so if you accidentally drop a bolt (or socket), you won't go through the ordeal of having to retrieve it from down in the engine bay.

ALSO, VERY important... do NOT remove both of the original bracket screws at the same time. Remove the one closest to the car interior first, then put the front of the bracket on and screw the bolt in tight enough to hold it, but still allow it to swing around. THEN remove the rear bolt, swing the bracket around and put the rear bolt in to secure it. Tighten both at that time. If you remove both of the factory bolts first, it's going to be significantly more difficult to install the JB4 mount.

Eagle7 · 2025-07-25T13:28:46-0500

I wasn't able to drive it yesterday, but tonight I'm going to go out and record a data log, then send that to Burger. If all's well or they update the tune, I'll update and then do a hundred mile run, then take it to the dyno shop, hopefully next week if I can get a slot for a dyno run.

K_Squared · 2025-07-25T19:26:13-0500

Eagle7 said:
Put a towel on top of the Eventuri, and underneath the bracket mount location, so if you accidentally drop a bolt (or socket), you won't go through the ordeal of having to retrieve it from down in the engine bay.

ALSO, VERY important... do NOT remove both of the original bracket screws at the same time. Remove the one closest to the car interior first, then put the front of the bracket on and screw the bolt in tight enough to hold it, but still allow it to swing around. THEN remove the rear bolt, swing the bracket around and put the rear bolt in to secure it. Tighten both at that time. If you remove both of the factory bolts first, it's going to be significantly more difficult to install the JB4 mount.

Thanks for this. I spent the small amount of time I had to work on this today routing the OBD connector into the engine bay. I couldn't bring myself to install without it as I want the max performance, smoothness, and safety and I want to be able see all the data.

I tried the grommet method but man, I just couldn't get the cable to push far enough up and in for it to be realistic. I could BARELY see it with a light at the very bottom left of the engine bay way below the intake but I didn't feel like removing the Eventuri and going through all that. I just bit the bullet and did the JB4 method and went through the firewall with a 1/2" bit which is the smallest you can do and fit the connector through. It seems pretty clean actually and the cable ingress point is nice for where I need to connect it to the JB4 with the bracket. I'm going to try to finish the actual JB4 install tomorrow and I'll make sure to follow those pointers.

Eagle7 · 2025-07-25T23:34:02-0500

K_Squared said:
Thanks for this. I spent the small amount of time I had to work on this today routing the OBD connector into the engine bay. I couldn't bring myself to install without it as I want the max performance, smoothness, and safety and I want to be able see all the data.

I tried the grommet method but man, I just couldn't get the cable to push far enough up and in for it to be realistic. I could BARELY see it with a light at the very bottom left of the engine bay way below the intake but I didn't feel like removing the Eventuri and going through all that. I just bit the bullet and did the JB4 method and went through the firewall with a 1/2" bit which is the smallest you can do and fit the connector through. It seems pretty clean actually and the cable ingress point is nice for where I need to connect it to the JB4 with the bracket. I'm going to try to finish the actual JB4 install tomorrow and I'll make sure to follow those pointers.

Glad you worked out something for you. I think the OBD connection makes a difference, as I just got back from driving around an hour and a half, testing different speeds and drive modes. On map1 91 octane, the car seems to be running smoother than it does stock. Outside air temp was 89F, engine temp was 200F, and the JB4 gauges showed IAT as 91F, so I think the heat shielding on the Eventuri has made some difference. Next time I have it out for a filter cleaning, I think I may just go ahead and heat shield wrap the back part that goes into the outside duct. Can't hurt.

I logged the whole journey and sent it to Burger, so I'll be interested to see if they want to make any changes to the tune, but if not it was running like a sewing machine tonight. VERY nice.

hellasf1 · 2025-07-26T09:05:38-0500

Eagle7 said:
I have one on order, and yes I will re-dyno at the same place so the previous dyno graphs will be on the chart for comparison.

Any update on the re-dyno?

K_Squared · 2025-07-26T12:16:17-0500

Eagle7 said:
Glad you worked out something for you. I think the OBD connection makes a difference, as I just got back from driving around an hour and a half, testing different speeds and drive modes. On map1 91 octane, the car seems to be running smoother than it does stock. Outside air temp was 89F, engine temp was 200F, and the JB4 gauges showed IAT as 91F, so I think the heat shielding on the Eventuri has made some difference. Next time I have it out for a filter cleaning, I think I may just go ahead and heat shield wrap the back part that goes into the outside duct. Can't hurt.

I logged the whole journey and sent it to Burger, so I'll be interested to see if they want to make any changes to the tune, but if not it was running like a sewing machine tonight. VERY nice.

I followed both the towel and bolt recommendations and the actual JB4 install was really smooth (routing the OBD cable was more effort). Map1 didn't have a major noticeable impact but Map 2 is definitely a significant step forward in terms of power. As others have mentioned, 1st gear redline hits much faster and the top end power increase is very noticeable. Somewhat surprisingly, although many have stated it, the improved smoothness of the engine in any map is significant. I don't think it's just placebo. The powertrain just feels a bit more dialed in and power delivery feels more consistent with the JB4 than before. It's definitely a worthy upgrade and in some ways I feel better/safer than running stock knowing that the JB4 is constantly monitoring and adjusting the engine parameters, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to say whether those feelings are justified or not

No codes, no issues at all after the installation so I was very happy with that. I took some logs from my initial first few minutes' run on Map2 and will send them over to Burger for review.

Here's a pic showing the best installation method of the bracket (halfway done) and how I routed the OBD2 cable for those interested:

Eagle7 · 2025-07-26T13:19:52-0500

hellasf1 said:
Any update on the re-dyno?

I sent my log file to Burger last night, so as soon as he returns an all-ok or an update, I'll do a quick 100 mile run-around then get a dyno run. Hopefully sometime next week if they have a slot open at the dyno shop.

Eagle7 · 2025-07-26T13:21:42-0500

K_Squared said:
I followed both the towel and bolt recommendations and the actual JB4 install was really smooth (routing the OBD cable was more effort). Map1 didn't have a major noticeable impact but Map 2 is definitely a significant step forward in terms of power. As others have mentioned, 1st gear redline hits much faster and the top end power increase is very noticeable. Somewhat surprisingly, although many have stated it, the improved smoothness of the engine in any map is significant. I don't think it's just placebo. The powertrain just feels a bit more dialed in and power delivery feels more consistent with the JB4 than before. It's definitely a worthy upgrade and in some ways I feel better/safer than running stock knowing that the JB4 is constantly monitoring and adjusting the engine parameters, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to say whether those feelings are justified or not

No codes, no issues at all after the installation so I was very happy with that. I took some logs from my initial first few minutes' run on Map2 and will send them over to Burger for review.

Here's a pic showing the best installation method of the bracket (halfway done) and how I routed the OBD2 cable for those interested:
View attachment 68136
View attachment 68138

I wish we had 93 here, but we just don't. I'm glad you noticed the smoothness too. At first I thought it was my imagination, but the engine does run smoother with the JB4 tune.

675430VME · 2025-07-26T13:38:52-0500

Eagle7 said:
I wish we had 93 here, but we just don't. I'm glad you noticed the smoothness too. At first I thought it was my imagination, but the engine does run smoother with the JB4 tune.

Looking at my log, JB4 keeps the boost pressure more consistent than the ecu psi which explains the smoothness you feel throughout the entire powerband, I like how the power is delivered as well.