An Emira with real negative camber

BG stuff:
BG ECU Stage 1+Tuning
BMC Intake filter
BG Ctrl Arms x 4
BG Sway Bars
BG Sway Bar End Link * 2
BG Unitball bearing * 8 (for lower control arms)
BG Adjustable toe arm
BG Tie Rod end
BG HARD TIE ROD
Rear Park Brake mod (to allow 18s to be installed)

Non BG stuff:
Snow Tech charge cooler upgrade including radiators
Mach 5 SS exhaust
Mach 5 exhaust valve controller with valve relocation
Decat downpipe
Aerie V2 wheels, 20*9, 20*11
Titanium Stud kit
Endless pads and fluid
PAR harness bar.
Lowered circa 10mm by moving the circlip in the shocks
Any benefit of the tie rod end if you aren't lowering the car?
Adjustable toe arm - is there really a need to adjust toe (for track use) more than what OEM components allow?
BG HARD TIE ROD - is this different to the titanium version? assuming it's stronger in some way? Not sure if the titanium is any stronger than the weak OEM component
 
Any benefit of the tie rod end if you aren't lowering the car?
Adjustable toe arm - is there really a need to adjust toe (for track use) more than what OEM components allow?
BG HARD TIE ROD - is this different to the titanium version? assuming it's stronger in some way? Not sure if the titanium is any stronger than the weak OEM component
Not arguing with you. I just took the entire package available, even if some parts aren’t necessarily required.

The car will be lowered further, with a decent set of coilovers at some point, but want to run with OEM springs/dampers before making more changes.

The tie rods are stronger than OEM as far as I understand, they are not titanium AFAIK.
 
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Looking forward to hearing your feedback. -3 front camber is my goto on my Yaris GR and a little under that on my Exige. Both steer amazingly so hoping the Emira responds similarly. Pls keep this thread updated.
 
Looking forward to hearing your feedback. -3 front camber is my goto on my Yaris GR and a little under that on my Exige. Both steer amazingly so hoping the Emira responds similarly. Pls keep this thread updated.
Yes, for sure I will update and share information on the other mods I’ve done. Been a bit busy this week, so not had a chance to get down to the car, but hopefully I will get a chance next week.
 
Looking forward to hearing your feedback. -3 front camber is my goto on my Yaris GR and a little under that on my Exige. Both steer amazingly so hoping the Emira responds similarly. Pls keep this thread updated.
Had a couple of sessions yesterday and today in my I4 Emira with the uprated suspension. The car is still having some teething problems with the Mach 5 Exhaust valve controller/relocation kit which is causing some CEL issues. Weather is a little cold, so not the best.

So far, I’m pretty happy. It’s gripping better and the tyres are no longer wearing on the outside edges. The ARB has made a big difference, the car is cornering flatter and feels more planted (ARB is set quite hard). Still need more time, but so far it’s going in the right direction.

I think I need some new tyres (ran Cup2, non LTS in factory sizes), definitely want a little wider than factory. I’ve got a set of 9” wide front and 11” wide rears, so will go up to at least 255 and 305.

I’m getting no traction control warning after a few fastish laps, but it clears after a cool down.
 
Had a couple of sessions yesterday and today in my I4 Emira with the uprated suspension. The car is still having some teething problems with the Mach 5 Exhaust valve controller/relocation kit which is causing some CEL issues. Weather is a little cold, so not the best.

So far, I’m pretty happy. It’s gripping better and the tyres are no longer wearing on the outside edges. The ARB has made a big difference, the car is cornering flatter and feels more planted (ARB is set quite hard). Still need more time, but so far it’s going in the right direction.

I think I need some new tyres (ran Cup2, non LTS in factory sizes), definitely want a little wider than factory. I’ve got a set of 9” wide front and 11” wide rears, so will go up to at least 255 and 305.

I’m getting no traction control warning after a few fastish laps, but it clears after a cool down.
Try Vitour P1, Ryan highly recommends it, he had good results from the Nurburgring testing sessions. They are highly affordable too.
 
Had a couple of sessions yesterday and today in my I4 Emira with the uprated suspension. The car is still having some teething problems with the Mach 5 Exhaust valve controller/relocation kit which is causing some CEL issues. Weather is a little cold, so not the best.

So far, I’m pretty happy. It’s gripping better and the tyres are no longer wearing on the outside edges. The ARB has made a big difference, the car is cornering flatter and feels more planted (ARB is set quite hard). Still need more time, but so far it’s going in the right direction.

I think I need some new tyres (ran Cup2, non LTS in factory sizes), definitely want a little wider than factory. I’ve got a set of 9” wide front and 11” wide rears, so will go up to at least 255 and 305.

I’m getting no traction control warning after a few fastish laps, but it clears after a cool down.
ARB?
 
Anti Roll Bar. I fitted updated ARB’s with special links.
You said the ARB's were pretty stiff. Doesn't Boomgear have 2 choices to select from? Which ones did you buy? And are they the stiifer ones?
 
You said the ARB's were pretty stiff. Doesn't Boomgear have 2 choices to select from? Which ones did you buy? And are they the stiifer ones?
I think they only offer 1 version of ARB, they didn’t mention any options of the ARB. There is an adjustable link too, and I believe mine are setup hard.

The car is definitely rolling much less, pitching less on the brakes too it seems. The tyres are no longer rolling over on the edge with the increased camber and not overheating like before. The camber might be a little more than required, but still need to play with tyre pressures and get more confidence with the new setup. I do suspect my cup2 aren’t performing great and need more time with the new setup.
 
I think they only offer 1 version of ARB, they didn’t mention any options of the ARB. There is an adjustable link too, and I believe mine are setup hard.

The car is definitely rolling much less, pitching less on the brakes too it seems. The tyres are no longer rolling over on the edge with the increased camber and not overheating like before. The camber might be a little more than required, but still need to play with tyre pressures and get more confidence with the new setup. I do suspect my cup2 aren’t performing great and need more time with the new setup.
The BG sway bars have two settings. Medium and hard comparing to oem, which depends on which hole you bolt the end links on.
Mine is set to medium which is good for street.
 
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Had a bit more of a drive today. There are still some running problems with the car (but hopefully getting there….), but the suspension is working well.

Tyres are no longer getting chewed up on the outside edges (if anything the inside and middle of the tyre and doing the work now) and not overheating like they were. If anything I might reduce the negative camber a little, I’ve probably got a bit more than I need (approximately -3.5 front, -3rear currently), may reduce it by about 0.5 degrees (not pushing it hard enough to use that much camber). I feel grip is improved, and it’s changing direction better. Car feels like it wants to rotate, if anything it wants to rotate a bit too much, need to tread carefully.

Disks are getting pretty bad now. Will probably swap out the fronts to AP or suchlike. Gonna get a less aggressive tune on the ECU and get rid of the pops and bangs, the extra power isn’t really helping TBH and the pops/bangs don’t feel like they are doing the turbo any good.
 
Had a bit more of a drive today. There are still some running problems with the car (but hopefully getting there….), but the suspension is working well.

Tyres are no longer getting chewed up on the outside edges (if anything the inside and middle of the tyre and doing the work now) and not overheating like they were. If anything I might reduce the negative camber a little, I’ve probably got a bit more than I need (approximately -3.5 front, -3rear currently), may reduce it by about 0.5 degrees (not pushing it hard enough to use that much camber). I feel grip is improved, and it’s changing direction better. Car feels like it wants to rotate, if anything it wants to rotate a bit too much, need to tread carefully.

Disks are getting pretty bad now. Will probably swap out the fronts to AP or suchlike.

Get Girodisc rotors and call them to ask which pads they recommend. I always go 1 above the street and it is great at the track and doesn’t squeal on the rode. And I put them on a 3,900 pound NSX and there hasn’t been scoring on the rotor with over 10 track days
 
Now that we know the sway bars are adjustable, you should stiffen the front sway bar to hard and rear to medium, if you haven’t done so already.
Stiffening the front sway bar will transfer more load across the front axle and reduce the front grip that will counteract the oversteer.
 
Get Girodisc rotors and call them to ask which pads they recommend. I always go 1 above the street and it is great at the track and doesn’t squeal on the rode. And I put them on a 3,900 pound NSX and there hasn’t been scoring on the rotor with over 10 track days
I’m debating my next step on the brakes. Either upgrade the front disks only, or go with AP callipers and matching discs. I might just do the front disk as a stop gap solution as my front discs are pretty bad, still stopping, but are noisy and have a little vibration.

It’s difficult to cool the front brakes of the I4, we have a charge cooler radiator on each side of the front bumper, whereas the V6 allows air flow into the front wheel well from my understanding. Maybe that’s part of the reason why most think factory brakes are ok and I feel they are not up to the job.
 
You really only need to change the front rotors and buy JUBU brake cooling kit to direct the air to all rotors
 
You really only need to change the front rotors and buy JUBU brake cooling kit to direct the air to all rotors
I might do just that, but not convinced it’s enough. The JUBU kit is a bit pricey for what it is, plus a bit of a hassle to get it shipped to China.

I’m curious to try these turbofans. Supposedly they help cool the brakes.
 

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Had a bit more of a drive today. There are still some running problems with the car (but hopefully getting there….), but the suspension is working well.

Tyres are no longer getting chewed up on the outside edges (if anything the inside and middle of the tyre and doing the work now) and not overheating like they were. If anything I might reduce the negative camber a little, I’ve probably got a bit more than I need (approximately -3.5 front, -3rear currently), may reduce it by about 0.5 degrees (not pushing it hard enough to use that much camber). I feel grip is improved, and it’s changing direction better. Car feels like it wants to rotate, if anything it wants to rotate a bit too much, need to tread carefully.

Disks are getting pretty bad now. Will probably swap out the fronts to AP or suchlike. Gonna get a less aggressive tune on the ECU and get rid of the pops and bangs, the extra power isn’t really helping TBH and the pops/bangs don’t feel like they are doing the turbo any good.
I found changing the camber balance is a pretty effective way or balancing under/oversteer. Where did you get the boom gear kit? Did you have to pay import tax and VAT? How are the updated bushings? More direct feel? Overly harsh on the road?
 
I found changing the camber balance is a pretty effective way or balancing under/oversteer. Where did you get the boom gear kit? Did you have to pay import tax and VAT? How are the updated bushings? More direct feel? Overly harsh on the road?
I’m an expat living in China, I buy direct from BoomGear, no importing for me:)

I’ve not really had a chance to really get to grips with the car. I like to stay within my limits, this is not a car I want to crash and I’ve had some niggly issues with unrelated stuff. However, so far the car feels sharper for sure, no slop or vagueness (I’m sure the solid mounts are helping), it feels like it wants to rotate, feels much flatter (uprated roll bars seem to be doing their job) and grip feels much improved (tyre pressures seemed quite important, as excessive pressure means you are riding on the inside of tyre, rather than rolling onto outside, imo).

Some uprated front discs and pads just arrived (factory discs are shot, again) and will be putting the car back to sports cat and factory ECU, so hopefully the niggles can be fixed.
 
I found changing the camber balance is a pretty effective way or balancing under/oversteer. Where did you get the boom gear kit? Did you have to pay import tax and VAT? How are the updated bushings? More direct feel? Overly harsh on the road?
Boomgear can ship direct now with tariff included.
 

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