RacingBrake Carbon Ceramic Rotor Install

This kit looks amazing, when I went to the website to order one, I noticed it says (due to the coonstraint of caliper pad sizes we do not recommended this setup for heavy tracking). I do multiple track days and flying laps, is that considered heavy tracking?
I really want to understand the reason for this before buying. Anyone have an idea ?

I tried email them but I didn’t get an answer yet. Thanks !
Just wait for the Girodisc rotors which is what you need if you’re tracking. It will be too expensive to keep replacing carbon. They also have different race pads.
I went one up from street on my NSX and no squealing at all since I drive it to the track.
I thrashed my 3,900 pound car around the New York safety track and had no fade or scoring of the rotors. It has consistent tight turns and I had no issues. I’ll be there Tuesday with my Emira on Rotora pads to let everyone know how they are. Greg recommended the H6 pads.
Everyone should definitely get high temperature brake fluid if they plan to track.
I’ll be at New Jersey Motorsports to track Lighting tomorrow and hope the H6 pads do well since I’m driving to track and back.
Bringing my stock pads just in case I eat them up.
 
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Between whacky weather, out-of-town visitors dropping in, and trying to find a place to do some runs, I still haven't been able to do anything. I had one day where the weather had warmed up, so I went out to find a place for a Dragy run, and I couldn't get it to work. After contacting them, it turns out there's a separate setting in the Dragy app to turn on Bluetooth on the Dragy device. There's no on/off switch on the unit itself, so I couldn't figure out how to turn it on. You turn it on with the app itself, which wasn't clear in the instructions.

The good news is it's magnetic, and grabbed the metal grill on top of instrument screen hood, so I didn't need to stick the metal plate that comes with it on the windshield anywhere. After finally getting it working, I went out to try and so some runs, but the traffic was ridiculous. The farm area that used to be farms, is now all housing. I decided I'd bring up Waze and see if there was a more remote area I could get to, but instead of it working like it always has, I see "Carplay isn't available; turn on Siri in the settings" ? Why is it off? I didn't turn it off.... so I go to settings for Siri, and it's off and the control is greyed out; I can't turn it on.

Apparently the last one or two system updates from Apple for my iPhone had turned off Siri. The only way I could get it fixed was to reset all the setting on my phone, which was a total PITA. I had to set everything back up, Apple Pay, passwords, face I.D., all my settings, etc.

I still haven't been able to do any 0-60 runs, but I believe I have everything working now. Only problem is the weather isn't cooperating at the moment; it's windy, rainy and temps are cooler than I would like. It's supposed to finally get up in the 70's next week, and IF everything works, I'll finally be able to do some runs. I really want to get the CCB brakes installed, as I've had them awhile now and they're just sitting here in boxes. They look beautiful by the way.
 
Between whacky weather, out-of-town visitors dropping in, and trying to find a place to do some runs, I still haven't been able to do anything. I had one day where the weather had warmed up, so I went out to find a place for a Dragy run, and I couldn't get it to work. After contacting them, it turns out there's a separate setting in the Dragy app to turn on Bluetooth on the Dragy device. There's no on/off switch on the unit itself, so I couldn't figure out how to turn it on. You turn it on with the app itself, which wasn't clear in the instructions.

The good news is it's magnetic, and grabbed the metal grill on top of instrument screen hood, so I didn't need to stick the metal plate that comes with it on the windshield anywhere. After finally getting it working, I went out to try and so some runs, but the traffic was ridiculous. The farm area that used to be farms, is now all housing. I decided I'd bring up Waze and see if there was a more remote area I could get to, but instead of it working like it always has, I see "Carplay isn't available; turn on Siri in the settings" ? Why is it off? I didn't turn it off.... so I go to settings for Siri, and it's off and the control is greyed out; I can't turn it on.

Apparently the last one or two system updates from Apple for my iPhone had turned off Siri. The only way I could get it fixed was to reset all the setting on my phone, which was a total PITA. I had to set everything back up, Apple Pay, passwords, face I.D., all my settings, etc.

I still haven't been able to do any 0-60 runs, but I believe I have everything working now. Only problem is the weather isn't cooperating at the moment; it's windy, rainy and temps are cooler than I would like. It's supposed to finally get up in the 70's next week, and IF everything works, I'll finally be able to do some runs. I really want to get the CCB brakes installed, as I've had them awhile now and they're just sitting here in boxes. They look beautiful by the way.
  1. Setup and test devices at home before going out - Dragy and Dragy Pro - charge em up, open the app and go (as you've now discovered). Odd to not open the app, but just stare at the hardware wondering how it turns on.
  2. Google or Apple Maps alternatives? iOS settings rabbit hole and resetting... using local encrypted backups on a computer or encrypted iCloud backup for data restore might save you time in the future. Also Resetting All Settings without erasing the entire device, is something to try first.
  3. Perhaps it's your level of comfort getting in the way of you doing a pull in-between breaks in traffic or just from a stop sign or traffic signal. Real-world tests and real-world results; you won't replicate even 75% of the situation between any runs you do.
I'll continue to read your life's essays because the struggle is indeed real for you and I hope things improve soon.
 
  1. Setup and test devices at home before going out - Dragy and Dragy Pro - charge em up, open the app and go (as you've now discovered). Odd to not open the app, but just stare at the hardware wondering how it turns on.
  2. Google or Apple Maps alternatives? iOS settings rabbit hole and resetting... using local encrypted backups on a computer or encrypted iCloud backup for data restore might save you time in the future. Also Resetting All Settings without erasing the entire device, is something to try first.
  3. Perhaps it's your level of comfort getting in the way of you doing a pull in-between breaks in traffic or just from a stop sign or traffic signal. Real-world tests and real-world results; you won't replicate even 75% of the situation between any runs you do.
I'll continue to read your life's essays because the struggle is indeed real for you and I hope things improve soon.
I did charge it, and the light was on when it was charging. I had the app open and there was no response from the unit. I figured there must be a press switch or something on the unit. It wasn't until customer support got back to me that I discovered the unit itself has settings you access from the app, and that's where you see it has it's own Bluetooth settings.

I did choose Reset All Settings, which is what I wrote, except I didn't capitalize it.

The problem is when I say there's traffic, I don't mean one or two cars, I mean a dozen. You have cars in front of you and cars behind. You can't do a 0-60 run when the cars in front of you are doing 40. This is also my first time using a Dragy so I want to be somewhere where I can sit and play with it without holding up traffic.

I'll get to it, just have to wait for better weather.

Thanks for the reply though.
 
This retaining screw hole position requires a very minor correction - Need to enlarge the screw hole ~1mm (Inward).
Pics below showing after correction and installation to the hub.

1747954915842.webp

1747954939561.webp

From this shipment on the hats will be corrected.
4 ea M8x1.25 Stainless steel screws are to be included in the shipment.
1747955126581.webp
 
This kit looks amazing, when I went to the website to order one, I noticed it says (due to the coonstraint of caliper pad sizes we do not recommended this setup for heavy tracking). I do multiple track days and flying laps, is that considered heavy tracking?
I really want to understand the reason for this before buying. Anyone have an idea ?

I tried email them but I didn’t get an answer yet. Thanks !
Our response to you by email is meant to be shared:

CCB rotors, due to its lower density compared to iron rotors, for the same amount of energy (heat) absorbed will substantially increase the braking temperature therefore for a standard (factory) ccb brake system (eg. Porsche pccb) the size/volume of pads, rotors and even the calipers must be larger/bigger in order to run it successfully for any tasks including heavy duty tracking.
Since this is a "retrofit" conversion the setup is still constrained to the OE calipers (4 pot vs. 6 pot), same size of pads, although the front rotors are slightly oversized to 380mm vs. stock iron of 370mm.
As a car enthusiasts looking into advanced ccb brake adventure, we have done everything possible to meet that goal at an affordable price but must honestly point it out so you as so you understand what to expect.
Downgrading from ccb to iron has no concern in heat handling except the drawbacks in heavy weight and brake dusts.
We offer the similar upgrade conversion for GTR, Alfa Romeo, Lexus etc., but those vehicles already come with larger front 6 pot calipers so they are less concerned.
Sorry for not replying earlier but due to your question need more time to respond and we just noticed it was missed.
Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
 
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They sure were quick to come in the forums to advertise though. Why would they not want to chime in and explain their logic?

Basically all they are saying is “it’s ok, trust us” but show nothing to back that up.
Remember this is a "retrofit" rotor kit so rotors sizes are constrained to fit OE componence's (caliper, hub and spindle).
The following considerations were given to go with 380mm:

1. 370mm (vs. 380) is not a common size even for an iron rotor let alone for ccb
2. 380mm (15") is a standard rotor size to fit 19" wheels on both iron and ccb.
3. Quite a few OE ccb setup having 380mm including ALL McLaren ccb rears (except the new Senna increased to 390mm)
4. 380mm is a popular and common size so for future disc replacement it's easy to source at lower costs.
5. Same 380/350 ccb conversion upgrade is offered for Alfa Giulia Quadrifoglio (from stock's 360/350 iron rotors) for the same reasons.
 
See how McLaren's 720/600LT brake bias was thoroughly analyzed when RB-CCB system kit was developed.

1747964172761.webp
 
This retaining screw hole position requires a very minor correction - Need to enlarge the screw hole ~1mm (Inward).
Pics below showing after correction and installation to the hub.

View attachment 64624
View attachment 64625
From this shipment on the hats will be corrected.
4 ea M8x1.25 Stainless steel screws are to be included in the shipment.
View attachment 64626
"From this shipment on the hats will be corrected." hopefully this includes mine that I ordered 😁
 
Yes if the order# is 39075
yup thats me. thanks for fixing it 👌 I actually converted to studs just because of this but happy to hear everyone else won't need to worry.

after a ton of research I concluded these carbon rotors are fairly over engineered compared to OEM version which typically just wants to reach minimum requirements. so with these rotors its possible to refurbish them etc compared to typical OEM carbon rotors that are built to be disposable. I'm going to have an install video for these too
 

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