Exhaust valves

[Tracked Emira]

Problem solved:

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ILLUMINATED, VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE

Part # 9 A 7 - 1 3 3 - 2 4 6 - A EMIRA MUFFLER ACTUATOR MOTOR
Part # CE4503 ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
CHECK FUSE, BLOWN, PUT NEW FUSE BLEW ALSO, REMOVE ENGINE COVER AND
FOUND ACTUATOR MELTED. REMOVE AND ATTEMPT TO INSTALL USED, NOT WORKING.
REINSTALL PARTS. LEFT ACTUATOR DISCONNECTED. THIS WILL CAUSE A CHECK
ENGINE LIGHT, BUT VEHICLE SHOULD NOT GO INTO LIMP MODE. PERFORMED
EXTENDED ROAD TEST. CEL RETURNED AND VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE.
SUGGEST REPLACING ACTUATOR AND APPLY HEAT SHIELDING TO EXHAUST SYSTEM
AND VALVE CONTROLLER. NOTE: AFTERMARKET REAR DIFFUSER DOES NOT HAVE
VENTING FOR EXHAUST AND ACTUATOR. SOURCED REPLACEMENT MUFFLER VALVE
ACTUATOR. FOUND ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT VEHICLE WIRING HARNESS ALSO
MELTED. SOURCED REPLACEMENT HARNESS CONNECTOR. SPLICED- IN NEW
CONNECTOR. SECURED TO NEW ACTUATOR. STARTED ENGINE AND CHECK FOR
FAULTS. FAULT STILL PRESENT FOR ACTUATOR. FOUND ACTUATOR WILL NOT
"PARK" UNLESS CONNECTED TO MUFFLER VALVE. SOURCED MUFFLER VALVE.
FABRICATED BRACKET TO SECURE VALVE TO CHASSIS. INSTALLED ACTUATOR.
TESTED. FAULT DOES NOT RETURN.

 

[OppositeLock]

That actuator apparently exists to protect the engine, and it needs to be full open at high load. It's why the car goes into limp mode when it reads that something is wrong with it.

 

[675430VME]

Problem solved:

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ILLUMINATED, VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE

Part # 9 A 7 - 1 3 3 - 2 4 6 - A EMIRA MUFFLER ACTUATOR MOTOR
Part # CE4503 ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
CHECK FUSE, BLOWN, PUT NEW FUSE BLEW ALSO, REMOVE ENGINE COVER AND
FOUND ACTUATOR MELTED. REMOVE AND ATTEMPT TO INSTALL USED, NOT WORKING.
REINSTALL PARTS. LEFT ACTUATOR DISCONNECTED. THIS WILL CAUSE A CHECK
ENGINE LIGHT, BUT VEHICLE SHOULD NOT GO INTO LIMP MODE. PERFORMED
EXTENDED ROAD TEST. CEL RETURNED AND VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE.
SUGGEST REPLACING ACTUATOR AND APPLY HEAT SHIELDING TO EXHAUST SYSTEM
AND VALVE CONTROLLER. NOTE: AFTERMARKET REAR DIFFUSER DOES NOT HAVE
VENTING FOR EXHAUST AND ACTUATOR. SOURCED REPLACEMENT MUFFLER VALVE
ACTUATOR. FOUND ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT VEHICLE WIRING HARNESS ALSO
MELTED. SOURCED REPLACEMENT HARNESS CONNECTOR. SPLICED- IN NEW
CONNECTOR. SECURED TO NEW ACTUATOR. STARTED ENGINE AND CHECK FOR
FAULTS. FAULT STILL PRESENT FOR ACTUATOR. FOUND ACTUATOR WILL NOT
"PARK" UNLESS CONNECTED TO MUFFLER VALVE. SOURCED MUFFLER VALVE.
FABRICATED BRACKET TO SECURE VALVE TO CHASSIS. INSTALLED ACTUATOR.
TESTED. FAULT DOES NOT RETURN.

From Ryan's experience, the same problem happened on stock car as well for people who like to track. Your aftermarket diffusor added another element of heat problem but the stock one does not do any better. Your current modification fixes a Lotus design fault.

 

[Nova]

From Ryan's experience, the same problem happened on stock car as well for people who like to track. Your aftermarket diffusor added another element of heat problem but the stock one does not do any better. Your current modification fixes a Lotus design fault.

I disagree it's a design fault. The stock design works fine (stainless exhaust with vented diffuser) and I have not heard of anyone melting anything in a stock setup. You can't change the parts and parameters that alter the inherent design that was in place before, and then blame the design when problems occur.

 

[Eagle7]

I've had the Aerie titanium exhaust on mine (V6 manual) for over a year without any problems. I installed it and used the factory valve and controller, never had a single issue. I drove it like that for a year even with the 3rd cat still installed which adds heat. I did many dyno pulls with full throttle runs while the car was sitting there stationary, and never once was there a fault code or any issue.

Track use is going to cause maximum heat, no matter what car you drive. It's typical to have to add cooling mods to brakes, engine, etc. to street cars used on the track. The Emira is not a track car that's street legal; it's a street sports car that can be driven on the track. From reading your diagnostic, it sounds like you switched out the factory diffuser for I'm guessing a CF one that doesn't have that scoop on the bottom? That scoop channels air from under the car into and through the muffler area to improve airflow through there. You'll need to figure out a way to create a scoop on it in the same place the factory diffuser has.

I did note the heat in the trunk area, and put a heat reflect material all around the area where the muffler sits. This made a big difference in the temperature on the bottom of the trunk, which shows mid 70's F even on a hot day, but the vertical wall of the trunk facing the engine still shows 100+. I'll have to figure out a way to add shielding to that too.

 

[675430VME]

I disagree it's a design fault. The stock design works fine (stainless exhaust with vented diffuser) and I have not heard of anyone melting anything in a stock setup. You can't change the parts and parameters that alter the inherent design that was in place before, and then blame the design when problems occur.

Did you not see what I said in China there were incidents where a completely stock car (no modification at all) that also got heat problem with the exhaust valve for tracking? The Emira provided for the Lotus racing academy also got the same problem before and even got one on fire.

If you consider what you heard or not heard represents the whole world then so be it, I am just giving reports what had happened in my side of the world.

 

[OppositeLock]

Some cars, like the McLaren 570s, have active extraction fans to move hot air out. I wonder if it might make sense to do something like that for people who have modified, hot running exhausts.

I've tracked my V6 emira on very hot California days, and so far, no problems, and that's about as hard as you can punish a car.

 

[675430VME]

Some cars, like the McLaren 570s, have active extraction fans to move hot air out. I wonder if it might make sense to do something like that for people who have modified, hot running exhausts.

I've tracked my V6 emira on very hot California days, and so far, no problems, and that's about as hard as you can punish a car.

Like mine, I never got any CEL or warning of any kind (touch wood), while there are many Emira that experience all kinds of problems. So...

 

[Syzygy]

così

Problem solved:

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ILLUMINATED, VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE

Part # 9 A 7 - 1 3 3 - 2 4 6 - A EMIRA MUFFLER ACTUATOR MOTOR
Part # CE4503 ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
CHECK FUSE, BLOWN, PUT NEW FUSE BLEW ALSO, REMOVE ENGINE COVER AND
FOUND ACTUATOR MELTED. REMOVE AND ATTEMPT TO INSTALL USED, NOT WORKING.
REINSTALL PARTS. LEFT ACTUATOR DISCONNECTED. THIS WILL CAUSE A CHECK
ENGINE LIGHT, BUT VEHICLE SHOULD NOT GO INTO LIMP MODE. PERFORMED
EXTENDED ROAD TEST. CEL RETURNED AND VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE.
SUGGEST REPLACING ACTUATOR AND APPLY HEAT SHIELDING TO EXHAUST SYSTEM
AND VALVE CONTROLLER. NOTE: AFTERMARKET REAR DIFFUSER DOES NOT HAVE
VENTING FOR EXHAUST AND ACTUATOR. SOURCED REPLACEMENT MUFFLER VALVE
ACTUATOR. FOUND ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT VEHICLE WIRING HARNESS ALSO
MELTED. SOURCED REPLACEMENT HARNESS CONNECTOR. SPLICED- IN NEW
CONNECTOR. SECURED TO NEW ACTUATOR. STARTED ENGINE AND CHECK FOR
FAULTS. FAULT STILL PRESENT FOR ACTUATOR. FOUND ACTUATOR WILL NOT
"PARK" UNLESS CONNECTED TO MUFFLER VALVE. SOURCED MUFFLER VALVE.
FABRICATED BRACKET TO SECURE VALVE TO CHASSIS. INSTALLED ACTUATOR.
TESTED. FAULT DOES NOT RETURN.

Which rear diffuser do you have?

 

[sbproducer]

Trying to consolidate this information cause things are getting confusing:

THE PROBLEM: OEM Exhaust Valve controller and/or associated wires are melting causing Emira to go into limp mode.

REASON: High temperatures near the exhaust area from one or more of the following...

1. Titanium Exhaust (Primary reason but not all Emiras with titanium exhausts are having this problem)
2. Aftermarket diffuser without the vent that is present in the OEM diffuser (Contributing factor)
3. Tracking the car for extended periods on hot days. (Contributing factor)

SOLUTION: One of the following...

1. Don't get a titanium exhaust. Opt for an insulated/wrapped stainless steel exhaust instead. Problem most likely solved.

2. A working Milltek Valve Controller would solve this problem because it intercepts ECU communication with OEM Valve Controller. Even if the OEM Valve Controller malfunctioned, the ECU would not know. So, you can still use titanium exhaust if you have a working Milltek Valve Controller.

3. If you don't have or want to use the Milltek Valve Controller, you can get a OEM Valve Controller relocation kit to keep it away from heat.

4. A ventilation kit, like the one in this link, may or may not solve the problem but would definitely help.

Is this correct?

If you get the relocation kit, does the OEM Valve Controller still function?

If you want to keep the titanium exhaust, and you have a working Milltek Valve Controller, is there any reason to get the OEM VC Relocation Kit?

 

[Tracked Emira]

Which rear diffuser do you have?

CT carbon

 

[Tracked Emira]

2. A working Milltek Valve Controller would solve this problem because it intercepts ECU communication with OEM Valve Controller. Even if the OEM Valve Controller malfunctioned, the ECU would not know. So, you can still use titanium exhaust if you have a working Milltek Valve Controller.

INCORRECT


4. A ventilation kit, like the one in this link, may or may not solve the problem but would definitely help.

Correct