Exhaust valves

Magicman

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Has anyone sorted disabling the exhaust valves yet so you can have "race" exhaust noise all the time?
 
The Evora exhaust was controlled by a vacuum system, unknown about the Emira. I'd imagine it's a similar system but they could have moved to an electronic actuator.

Theoretically both should be controllable via CAN-BUS.
 
Hi everyone,

So I have found the below related fuse relays in relation to the exhaust valves control. Wonder if any has figured out a way of hacking this to have the valves permanently open without calling up warning lights?

50039371-969F-4DC1-9004-CAC51922B912.webp
 

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Hi everyone,

So I have found the below related fuse relays in relation to the exhaust valves control. Wonder if any has figured out a way of hacking this to have the valves permanently open without calling up warning lights?

View attachment 22045
Where is this from?
 
Hi everyone,

So I have found the below related fuse relays in relation to the exhaust valves control. Wonder if any has figured out a way of hacking this to have the valves permanently open without calling up warning lights?

Not yet.

This will likely require a module to sit on the CAN bus and respond/acknowledge to CAN ids to the valve controller. Going to take some time for someone to reverse engineer that -- and there's not a whole lot of cars delivered yet.
 
Would anyone be able to point out the location of the exhaust valves please?

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1EE420C1-5818-47CD-B850-E27A5555C26A.webp
CFC53139-5CD6-4C2C-BEBE-2C132DE1475F.webp
 
Would anyone be able to point out the location of the exhaust valves please?

Look on the topside of the area circled. Can’t see it from the bottom.
 

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Am I seeing this correctly? Only one side of the rear dual exhaust tips are functional?
It looks like that.

No, you are not seeing it correctly. The exhaust exit is not visible in these photos.

See below, the exits are higher than the inlets:
Screenshot_20230217-232937.png


A view of the silencer assembly out of the car, for clarity:
Screenshot_20230217-233125.png


And here's a reverse view of the inlet side (left) as though looking toward the rear of the car. Exhaust valve is at the bottom left, in the inlet pipe. When closed, diverted flow passes through the smaller pipe on the way into the silencer.
Screenshot_20230217-233210.png


Ignore the arrows printed on the image, those are part of the disassembly instructions.
 
No, you are not seeing it correctly. The exhaust exit is not visible in these photos.

See below, the exits are higher than the inlets:
View attachment 22808

A view of the silencer assembly out of the car, for clarity:
View attachment 22809

And here's a reverse view of the inlet side (left) as though looking toward the rear of the car. Exhaust valve is at the bottom left, in the inlet pipe. When closed, diverted flow passes through the smaller pipe on the way into the silencer.
View attachment 22810

Ignore the arrows printed on the image, those are part of the disassembly instructions.
Thanks, now that I know where to look, I can just see a bit of the other side up above on that other side.
 
Spero che qualcuno possa trovare una soluzione. Evora era così semplice...
 
Reviving this thread as I am currently experiencing exhaust issues... I have installed the GRP titanium exhaust, 3rd cat delete & Milltek valve controller; car had been running great for about 700 miles, then suddenly went into limp mode before completely shutting down. The car has since been at the dealership getting diagnosed. They called today to tell me they got 5 fault codes, all of which were cleared by some software update. Then mentioned the car has a "faulty exhaust pressure control valve", which will need to be ordered and replaced... this is what is currently keeping the car in limp mode.

I was inclined to believe the Milltek controlled was the issue, but I inspected it for any loose connections/signs of deterioration, but it all looked the same as it did the day it was installed. Really hoping this replacement pressure control valve solves the issue, however, I am nervous this will happen again. I see a "V2" version of the Milltek valve controller was released; is this the permanent solution? My car will be tracked, so the unit will be exposed to high temps often.

Does anyone know what would happen if I cut out the valves all together?
 
You can't cut out the valve controller. The ECU expects it to be there.

There might be some issue with the Milltek controller you have - depending on where it was installed, it might have been damaged by excessive heat, which is a common issue when installed directly behind the license plate holder area. Check that when you get it back.
 
V2 is just longer cables I believe so you can locate it further away from the heat source. I believe you can’t cut out the valves altogether as the ecu seems to need to know the position so it doesn’t throw a CEL. You could try to just remove the actuator from the mount and keep it connected but mount it somewhere it can just actuate nothing. Not sure if the ecu needs some resistance
 
V2 is just longer cables I believe so you can locate it further away from the heat source. I believe you can’t cut out the valves altogether as the ecu seems to need to know the position so it doesn’t throw a CEL. You could try to just remove the actuator from the mount and keep it connected but mount it somewhere it can just actuate nothing. Not sure if the ecu needs some resistance
Correct! Please read my threads on limp mode because you are creating too much heat as I was.
I went through to valve controllers and Milltek 1 and version 2 and those wires fried with each valve controller. I eliminated Milltek as well.
 

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