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Emira and Quick Jack

This thread is more about the Quickjack being suitable for the Emira due to the location of the lift points
It is indeed, and our discussion is because we may disagree on some of your supporting evidence. But reasonable people can disagree, and again - to each his own :)

I doubt an average shop would know to use those inboard jacking points regardless. Don’t seem easy to get to on any lift.
 
I doubt an average shop would know to use those inboard jacking points regardless. Don’t seem easy to get to on any lift.
They would know, because there are stickers underneath the car with arrows pointing to the jacking locations. 😉
 
They would know, because there are stickers underneath the car with arrows pointing to the jacking locations. 😉
Sure…if they’re already underneath the car somehow, or if they know to look for them :)
 
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Mine is up on quickjacks right now. I have the older BL5000-SLX which is a few inches shorter than the newer (post 2020) 5000 series. It doesn't quite reach the lift points, but as long as you place the rubber blocks on the same aluminum frame joints a few inches inset from them it works fine. I'm leaving it up overnight because I'm going to finish my 3rd cat delete and do a break-in oil change in the morning. Hope this helps.

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Mine is up on quickjacks right now. I have the older BL5000-SLX which is a few inches shorter than the newer (post 2020) 5000 series. It doesn't quite reach the lift points, but as long as you place the rubber blocks on the same aluminum frame joints a few inches inset from them it works fine. I'm leaving it up overnight because I'm going to finish my 3rd cat delete and do a break-in oil change in the morning. Hope this helps.

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So, are you on either one of the factory jack points?
 
For those thinking about getting one, QuickJack is having a Memorial Day sale in the US this weekend.
 
So, are you on either one of the factory jack points?
I am not. I tried mounting the quick jack perpendicular to the car but the front jack points are too closely spaced. The four factory jack points seem to mostly just be placed for convenience for a 4-post lift, but the chassis frame rails they're on run lengthwise like any other car and can be load bearing. If you use rubber blocks you should be fine. Only thing to be mindful of is how rear heavy this car is (61/39 weight distro) so the rear points are under more load.
 
To lift my SUV it looks like I need the 6000 ELX. Of course that one is 86" long. What's the spread between the wheels? I would do a crosswise lift otherwise.
 
I am not. I tried mounting the quick jack perpendicular to the car but the front jack points are too closely spaced. The four factory jack points seem to mostly just be placed for convenience for a 4-post lift, but the chassis frame rails they're on run lengthwise like any other car and can be load bearing. If you use rubber blocks you should be fine. Only thing to be mindful of is how rear heavy this car is (61/39 weight distro) so the rear points are under more load.
You're supposed to use the label end of the Quickjack on the heavier end of the car, so for ours, the label end should be at the rear.
 
Very happy with how the 7000TLX fits! But I'm very late for dinner, so pics within an hour or two.
 
I am not. I tried mounting the quick jack perpendicular to the car but the front jack points are too closely spaced. The four factory jack points seem to mostly just be placed for convenience for a 4-post lift, but the chassis frame rails they're on run lengthwise like any other car and can be load bearing. If you use rubber blocks you should be fine. Only thing to be mindful of is how rear heavy this car is (61/39 weight distro) so the rear points are under more load.
Is this any use?

 
pics of 7000TLX from today. will post more comments tomorrow about how I placed it.
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The label end as shown in your last picture, needs to be at the back of the car, not the front. Normally it would be at the front but for rear and mid-engine cars, it needs to be at the back. Also, make sure the safety arms are on the outside, so in the above picture you can't just turn around the Quickjack so the label is at the back; you need to switch sides of the car.
 
The label end as shown in your last picture, needs to be at the back of the car, not the front. Normally it would be at the front but for rear and mid-engine cars, it needs to be at the back. Also, make sure the safety arms are on the outside, so in the above picture you can't just turn around the Quickjack so the label is at the back; you need to switch sides of the car.
Or just... pull the car in the other way?
 
Thanks for this content. Question: how many inches do these achieve in ground clearance (floor-to-frame) at full extension?
sorry, another question: the lift seems to be making metal-to-metal contact with the lift points, aren't you supposed to sandwich in rubber blocks to protect those lift points?
 
sorry, another question: the lift seems to be making metal-to-metal contact with the lift points, aren't you supposed to sandwich in rubber blocks to protect those lift points?
Not only that, it seems like you'd want an extra inch or two in clearance to work under it.
 

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