V6 FE dyno results and weight

[Eagle7]

I think you guys mis-understood what I was saying. It doesn't add 7 hp to the engine, it frees up hp that's currently being absorbed from the drivetrain. The engine is still putting out whatever power it is from the factory. By improving the efficiency of the drivetrain (reducing the resistance) that allows some of the power that was being absorbed to now make it to the rear wheels.

I guess its logical, as it aligns with the analogous idea of employing lightweight wheels and rotors, such as those made of carbon ceramic, to reduce drive train loss.

I'm curious on which gear oil that could offer superior efficiency compared to the factory-installed option. I've come across enthusiasts enthusiastically endorsing LiquiMoly engine oil, although I haven't personally tested it yet.

At this point, I'm still doing research, but I'll look into the LiquiMoly product and see what I can find out. Right now, as far as engine oil, the Pennzoil Platinum Euro synthetic seems to be right up there with the best. As far as gear oils, I like Red Line products. I'm looking into aerospace lubricants at the moment, which are pricey, but may be worth it in a trans and diff.

Once I have my car and get through the 1,000 mile break-in period, I'll start a project thread and post whatever I learn/discover/do.

 

[Thirdgen89gta]

Just read through 8 pages of this thread and it makes me want to bang my head into a brick wall anytime I see a shop applying a drivetrain loss correction to a chassis dyno result. It’s asinine.


U less you are willing to rip the engine out and put on an engine dyno with the full factory exhaust and intake exactly as equipped in the car just don’t bother.


Let the WHP ratings (or Kw) stand on their own. Don’t fudge numbers. Dyno before and after modifications and only apply weather correction factors to normalize the results for your dyno.

The jb4 dyno are interesting because they are as back to back as you can get. They dyno’d about 36xWhp before and with the most aggressive tune hit about 460whp. Roughly a 100hp gain.

The Emira feels like to doesn’t make 400hp because it actually doesn’t in regular driving. Peak hp actually coincides with the rpm limiter so it only makes its claimed 400hp for the last 100rpm. Anywhere else in the rev range and it’s less than 400hp.

Compare this against most other engines where peak power occurs several hundred rpm before redline. With those types of power bands you make more average power because you run the engine past peak power till it falls off, shift, then start much closer to peak power.


“Under the Curve”, is the phrase that experienced people look for when modifying engines. Average power is much more important than peak power. This is one of the reasons the 400hp I4 is faster than the v6 (never mind the dct as that’s a whole nother supreme advantage over a manual).

I’m trying to find a time to get my Emira dyno’d on a AWD dyno so all 4 wheels are spinning at the same speed. This will report less power than a 2nd dyno and much less than a Dynapack hub dyno.