US I4 (400hp) has fake engine noise pumped through speakers

I’m bad at depinning anyone got any pointers to depinning this connector and recommended tools? Don’t really want to cut the wire

If it helps this is the shape of the back of the connector

Edit:
Found the connector. Will make my own bypass https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807542658712.html
 

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TOOK THE PIN OUT TODAY, this is must. 10 inch sub goes in Saturday.
 
I got my bypass connector today via buying this and taking the specific wire out https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807542658712.html

What a difference! Finally can move forward and install my downpipe and exhaust so I can actually see what the difference is.

Anyway, I had no issue with the bass that @Wiz33 is encountering. I played the same song before and after and can still adjust the bass in the equalizer setting and it adjusts the bass appropriately.
 
Does it just take away that buzzy video game engine note?

Only reason I ask is because I had a spazzy moment trying to switch into track mode(clicking the mode select button a bunch of times) when I turned the car on one day and I think whatever I did disabled the fake sound but then I legit couldn’t even hear the engine, it sounded very anemic. Once I cycled the power everything went back to normal and I couldn’t replicate it.
 
Does it just take away that buzzy video game engine note?

Only reason I ask is because I had a spazzy moment trying to switch into track mode(clicking the mode select button a bunch of times) when I turned the car on one day and I think whatever I did disabled the fake sound but then I legit couldn’t even hear the engine, it sounded very anemic. Once I cycled the power everything went back to normal and I couldn’t replicate it.
I had the same thing happen to me, the switch wasn’t responsive, then it was, the piped in sound would not activate. I think it was caused by not letting the screen boot up 100%. I did the wire disconnect, prefer not having the sound. The cabin is so much quieter, the stereo sounds much better. I did put a switch on mine. I will never turn it on. Nice to hear the real thing!!
 
Granted the real thing is pretty quite but you can hear the intake sucking in air better now
 
I had the same thing happen to me, the switch wasn’t responsive, then it was, the piped in sound would not activate. I think it was caused by not letting the screen boot up 100%. I did the wire disconnect, prefer not having the sound. The cabin is so much quieter, the stereo sounds much better. I did put a switch on mine. I will never turn it on. Nice to hear the real thing!!
Cool, so I’m not crazyb. It happened and I was as like yikes, I need to snip the wire and have an exhaust ready to bring the proper sound back.
 
Anyone in SE Pennsylvania who could
disconnect the piped in sound for me? Nervous about doing it myself.
 
Anyone in SE Pennsylvania who could
disconnect the piped in sound for me? Nervous about doing it myself.
Do you want to depin or just cut the wire? You could also buy the cable I posted and create a bypass cable by cutting the wire on that, that way it’s fully reversible. Hardest part is probably just getting that stupid carpet corner panel off.
 
It is a hard panel to remove. It does soften up a little bit if you repetitively remove and reinstall it….lol.

Okay, this is how i remove it. Take it for what its worth.

If looking at panel head on, there is a black bracket on the bottom left of the panel. I stick my finger in there and pull panel out. You will disengage the bottom yellow clip.

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I shimmy my fingers upwards towards the top and pull. You will disengage the second yellow clip. Note: why its difficult to remove and reinstall is the top edge of that panel sits well under the plastic trim of the speaker grille. Just pull upper left corner of panel out from under the speaker grille.

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Then continue to pull panel out and then forward to completely remove. There are guide tabs on the right side of the panel (firewall side) but no retention clips.

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In this next pictures, you can see the 2 yellow clips and the 3 guide tabs and their corresponding insertion locations. (Dont mind the sound deadening material on the panel)

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you can see the wire that need clipping circled in green….lol. I didnt tape it off (probably because i was pissed at how hard it was to remove the panel!)

To reinstall the panel is also a major PITA your first few times…i can fly it in there pretty easily now. The best way I do it is lead with the right upper corner under the speaker grille trim first, push panel back towards firewall, bend left upper corner of panel under the speaker grille trim and then push bottom of panel back into original position. Only after i get panel seated back into original position do i then reinsert the yellow clips and guide tabs back into their appropriate slots.

Hope this helps!
 
OK, I switched from the i4 back to the V6 today (1st time since having the wire cut). The sub on the i4 are just gone by comparison with the same track at the same audio setting, you can tell even by the air compression at higher volume. Will open the panel up and check and make sure everything was seated correctly.
Were you ever able to sort out the sub issue you encountered with cutting the wire?
 
you can see the wire that need clipping circled in green….lol. I didnt tape it off (probably because i was pissed at how hard it was to remove the panel!)

To reinstall the panel is also a major PITA your first few times…i can fly it in there pretty easily now. The best way I do it is lead with the right upper corner under the speaker grille trim first, push panel back towards firewall, bend left upper corner of panel under the speaker grille trim and then push bottom of panel back into original position. Only after i get panel seated back into original position do i then reinsert the yellow clips and guide tabs back into their appropriate slots.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the write-up! I've pulled apart so many cars so I know that threshold to get clips loose can be high but in the back of my head I was like "I've gotta be doing something wrong here because this little panel if in there!"

I'll yank it tonight because this fake noise is really starting to bother me.
 
Were you ever able to sort out the sub issue you encountered with cutting the wire?

I think the sub signal is still there but they may have lower the signal strength so the pipe in noise won't overwhelm the bass. I went from my normal +2 on the V6 to +4 and it's close.
 
Did mine today and all the better for it. I’ve got an exhaust, sports cat and stage 1 ECU, it sounds just fine without the piped in crap. Added bonus, the speakers are much improved too.
 
Did mine today and all the better for it. I’ve got an exhaust, sports cat and stage 1 ECU, it sounds just fine without the piped in crap. Added bonus, the speakers are much improved too.
What exhaust did you go with? I’ve been looking around but haven’t been able to find good videos of cabin and outside sound.

This thing desperately needs an exhaust.
 
What exhaust did you go with? I’ve been looking around but haven’t been able to find good videos of cabin and outside sound.

This thing desperately needs an exhaust.
I’ve got a V1 Ti Aerie Exhaust and the Aerie Sport cat. It sounds better than stock but isn’t too loud/crazy. I’m gonna change it out to a decat, with Mach5 SS exhaust and the Mach5 remote valve controller setup.
 
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