📓 Journals Everything that has gone wrong in the first 10'000 miles (and what didn't!)

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MiamiBlue

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Status:
Emira Owner
My Specs:
Emira V6
I hit the 10K milestone recently, and thought for reference I would list all my issues. Some of these are maybe more 'characteristics' of the car rather than actual faults. This is a bit long winded, but maybe someone will find it in the future from a search and it will be of some use.

First of all, in my entire ownership period so far the car has never failed to start, never once shown a CEL, and never had any issue that has stopped me being able to drive and enjoy the car. It has also never been put on a battery charger, and regularly left for periods of weeks without any issue. I consider all the issues below relatively minor and I can honestly say it has been more reliable than my Cayman 718.


So here we go..


Paint Blisters

I had the common paint blister/bubbles appear after about a year. On both doors along the top edge. Interestingly they seemed to appear on both sides within a short period. It's as if a certain criteria (temperature cycle?) occurs to set them off. Both doors replaced under warranty without the car for about 2 weeks. The paint shop seemed to do a decent job with the paint matching and blending, but not so much with the refitting. I had increased wind noise noticeable at higher speeds (60mph+) and it may have contributed to one of my rattles. Having the doors realigned seemed to help.


Front speaker centre speaker buzz with bass.

The front centre speaker on the dashboard vibrates/buzz's with certain bass frequencies while playing music. I've always thought this front speaker is too dominant on the sound system. It's noticeably louder than the two door speakers. I wish there was a 'fader' control to increase sound to the door speakers, which seem the higher quality speakers. I've tried pushing on the grille, but that didn't seem to help. I read somewhere that one of the software updates changes this front/rear balance, but that is not confirmed.


Opening the window causes a bass rattle from an area to the rear/behind of the door

My initial guess was that the window fully closed was bracing something that was otherwise loose to vibrate. But pushing down on different trim pieces I can't get it to stop. Close the window fully and it goes away.

Overall, I'm disappointed in the KEF sound system. For its cost and the hype it's a let down for me. KEF is responsible for some very high-end music gear. How they got it so wrong here I don't know. It says a lot when members in the forum are adding $150 amplified bass speakers to the rear shelf and significantly improving the sound quality. To be fair I think it is this rear open bass speaker that is responsible for the sound complaints. All my previous cars (inc 2 seaters) have also had full range speakers behind your head. My 718 with its BOSE Sound system sounds significantly better to my preference. I also get the common bass speaker ‘pop’ sound when opening the car door, (maybe 1 out of 10 times?) this has been well reported.


Interior rattles

The headliner at the rear makes a 'popping' and flex sound. If I reach back and jam my fingers in the gap at the rear of the headliner I can reduce/change the sound. I think rubber blocks or something pushed into this gap could hold the headliner taught and fix this. This fault is well reported online.

I also have a newer dash rattle that seems to come from the top front area and is noticeable driving over any bumps or rough surfaces. I don't think this one is so easy to rectify and may require the dash top to be lifted. Normally rattles in cars wind me up and I go to great trouble to fix them. But perhaps because the Emira is a noisy place already it hasn't bothered me too much.


'Wiper Malfunction' dashboard message

I recall three occasions in the last 10K that I get a 'Wiper malfunction' message briefly for half a second when starting the car. The wipers appear to work fine. I'm not sure if this is a software bug, or sensor issue. But it's very infrequent, immediately disappears, and there's no actual apparent fault.


Side seat plastic panel broken clip

The drivers side seat outside panel easily pops off (from the bottom edge). I think there's a broken plastic clip. Pressure on the side bolster from entering/exiting the vehicle, or even a fast corner will cause it to unclip. I believe this is common and well reported. Normally it's the top part that comes off, but for me it seems the bottom. As I get out the vehicle, I've found myself holding it in place with my hand to stop it coming undone.


Vibration in rear view mirror

The rear view mirror will vibrate/jiggle on rough textured roads. It's fairly minor and doesn't cause any issues. I've read mixed reports about this being a fault or a 'characteristic' of the car. The Sports suspension on my car may contribute to the effect.


Passenger side sun visor doesn't fully close

The sun visor on the passenger side doesn't fully close and has some play/movement in the 'closed' position.
I've seen this reported by others. It would be annoying if it was the drivers side. The hinge mechanism is not great. I can see these failing on cars as they age. I try not to use the drivers visor unless I really need it.


Clutch vibration/tremor felt through the clutch pedal when depressing transferred from the engine speed

Initially I thought there was a slight 'grating' or roughness to the clutch pedal when depressing it down. Then I realised it doesn't happen when the engine is off or at low/idle revs. The clutch is perfectly smooth. I realised it's related to the engine speed, and when pushing the clutch down you can feel the engine speed (flywheel?) movement transferred as a sensation you can feel through the pedal. I also noticed that if the car is in neutral and I rev the engine and depress the clutch pedal I still feel the vibration. In this instance the clutch is not directly connected to the engine, so I'm not sure how the vibration is being transferred? Through the clutch casing, or the hydraulic fluid if that's possible? I've observed that the effect seems to increase after the car has warmed up. The effect is also less if I'm accelerating up through the rev range when changing gears. It's more noticeable if I'm holding speed and revs and press down the clutch pedal to change gear. I think the feeling has always been there, and I've just noticed it in the last few thousand miles (once you notice something, you can't unnotice it!). It hasn't become any worse and it doesn't affect anything. I've not seen it mentioned anywhere for the Emira, but a similar thing is reported on the Evora which has a very similar, if not identical transmission system.


Wipers judder

The wipers can judder in operation under certain (increased windscreen friction) conditions. On the first swipe when it clears the windscreen it's smooth, then judders on the return stroke. I've heard this reported before, and I'm told newer cars (or warranty replacements) fix it with a stronger motor.


Rear light misting

If I'm a little brutal with the pressure washer I can get some misting in the rear lights that will disappear after a day or two. I've heard other owners have had their lights replaced. I was pointed to the manual which states it's normal for a little misting in both the front and rear lights as they are vented to the outside.


Some sort of power steering oil leak?

During the first service the dealer said they found some sort of steering related oil leak. I suffered no symptoms and was unaware of the issue. It was fixed under warranty. Apparently fairly common. I don't know exactly what the fault was, but glad it was caught before I experienced any issues. This is probably the only actual mechanical fault I've had, and I didn't even know I had it.


Reverse gear engagement can be hesitant

Sometimes the car doesn't like to go into reverse without a little force. I've realised if I go into 1st gear first it will then glide into reverse. This seems mechanically more sympathetic and is what I do now. The other gears all work pretty well. There has been much discussion about the emira gearbox and how sensitive it is to adjustment. As mine works well overall I've left it alone.


DAB radio

The DAB radio reception is weak, and after searching for new stations it will soon forget (or lose?) them and I have to scan again. I understand this is fairly common and there's a fix from Lotus. I so rarely use the radio I haven't bothered pursuing it further.


Slight pull to the right under acceleration.

I've noticed the car will pull slightly to the right under moderate to hard acceleration causing a slight left steering input to be required to stay straight. As soon as you lift off the power the car returns straight. I initially assumed I just needed a geo, but after a full weighted geo and check of tyre pressures the behaviour remains. It's a small effect, and my wife can't notice it at all when driving (but she did once drive around for a week with a tyre that was half flat and didn't notice..).

It’s most noticeable when cruising on a motorway/highway in lane and you put your foot down. The car starts to veer to the right slightly. Come off the power and it straightens right up.

To be clear the geo is perfect on a wheel alignment machine. It brakes straight, and when cruising is perfectly straight. It’s just under ‘engine loading’. My best guess now is that there is some play in a suspension or engine mount that is causing a little movement when dynamically loaded.

I posted about it separately with more detail and others have noticed the same. Nobody has yet found a solution. You can see HERE. It's also discussed on another forum HERE.


Less performance than expected and occasional surge at the top of the rev range

The car doesn't feel as fast as I was expecting for a 400bhp light(ish) car. My Porsche 718 (with 350bhp) feels noticeably quicker. Though I appreciate this is probably the turbo effect and low down torque available. So, I doubt there's any fault here. But I have noticed that sometimes when accelerating hard through the gears I'll feel an extra 'surge' of power at the top of the rev range, while other times it will feel perfectly linear through the rev range. Like it’s holding back on me sometimes! I'm not sure why this might be, it could be an illusion I feel and it's exactly the same every time or something the car is doing depending on the gear/driving situation.


Conclusion and other thoughts

That’s it after 10K and nearly 2 years. I have the 2nd service due soon and will bring up some of these issues. I don’t live anywhere near a dealer, so I haven’t chased these issues as none of them are stopping me driving and enjoying the car. Compared to some of the horror stories I’ve read on here I consider myself pretty lucky overall.


I really enjoy this car. It feels special every time I drive it and it looks like a supercar.

But I love that the mechanical parts are not exotic, and are mainstream. Underneath there’s a Toyota 2GR-FE, which though not a new or ‘fancy’ engine is extremely durable and well proven. Lotus have even made it sound great. I know some owners are doing very short oil change intervals or even adding an oil catch can to increase the engines longevity, but I doubt anyone is going to see a return on this investment. If I keep driving the way I am, for the next 10 years, I’ll hit about 50K. Which for these Toyota lumps is barely broken in.

I love the headlights too. Nobody talks about them, but if you’ve ever had literally any other previous Lotus I can’t tell you how much better they are. They’re right up to the level of modern German LED equivalents.

The interior is a lovely place too, that looks special and premium. My only criticism here is that though the materials are high quality (lots of genuine Italian Alcantara and nappa leather covering everything) it’s not as well ‘screwed down’ as it should be. I shouldn’t have broken trim, rattles and broken sun visors after 10K. I also have some foam coming away from the windshield area. I wonder how well these cars will hold up over time. My 6 year old Porsche has none of these issues (but it has had coolant leaks and engine sensors fail). Perhaps we shouldn’t fret the small stuff when the big stuff works.
 
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Three comments from me:

1. Centre speaker buzzing. When I purchased my car the centre speaker was fine. After warranty work, when they removed the dashboard, the centre speaker buzzed continuously. They replaced it and it doesn’t buzz at all, at any frequency.
2. Wiper blades juddering. Mine did that. I compounded the windscreen with Glaco glass compound and then treated it with Glaco cleaner/sealant. The juddering hasn’t happened since.
3. Difficulty getting into reverse. I had my lever adjustment done by my dealer. It now goes into all gears easily.
 
A really useful write up, that'll be really helpful to new owners - so shamelessly copying you - here's my experiences.

14,000 miles on mine or at least will be when I get it back to the UK and until recently not had any major issues.

It’s kept outside, uncovered and not garaged. Not on a battery charger either but driven at least every few days. No modifications other than the Milltek Valve controller.

Minor Issues
Two times the car has refused to start. Turning it off, waiting a few minutes and turning back on again fixed this. Checking OBD codes for these occasions showed an ABS communications issue. This was apparently fixed in a software patch done by the dealer and I’ve not had it since.

Several times the car has refused to connect to my phone over Bluetooth, again turning the car off and waiting a few minutes before restarting has fixed this. But once connected it has stayed reliable (although cuts out for a few seconds on both French Peage tolls and Norwegian Epass tolls).

The geometry was way out although the car felt fine and I only discovered this when changing tyres. But having the geometry done properly the car feels so much better – much more planted. It says something that even with the geometry badly wrong it was still better than most other cars to drive. Seriously, if you haven’t done it yet go and have it checked at a reputable geometry place (not a dealership) it’ll be less than £50 for a check.

Occasional weird annoying rattle from the passenger side front - sounded like something loose. I had the dealership check inside the door for this, they didn’t find anything but they also didn’t put the door panel back on properly (still to go back to the dealership to have this rectified). Rattle was still there but recently seems to have stopped? No other unexpected rattles but it is fiberglass panels on a stiff aluminium frame so I expect a few creaks and noises. It’s a lot quieter than my Elise.

No issues with the Kef stereo – I like it – but I do think it is more like a home hi-fi quality and maybe doesn’t have the bass needed to cut through the road noise. I’ve had the bass pop when opening the car three or four times.

No problems with brakes, steering, clutch, gears, wipers, lights, wind noise or performance.

More Serious Issues

The more major issues have only just started up as I am nearing the end of Lotus warranty.

Obviously, the issues I’ve had (having?) in Norway, intermittent misfiring on random cylinders that required a new engine management unit to fix (maybe also an engine loom). Giving a CEL with lots of different errors on OBD but all caused by the misfire.

Bubbling, blistering on the driver’s door, all came up really suddenly, all at once and the car is fairly old and has been kept outside. There are 3 small blisters that are obvious but if you look carefully at the right angle, you can see the whole front half of the door is covered in a kind of mottled effect. It all came up after a few hot days – I had been checking regularly before and there was no sign of any of this this. Passenger door and rear are fine. Will be going into a Silverstone for the new door.

Driver’s seat side plastic broken. I saw this happen when the breakdown guy sat in the car. He just sat in it normally and the panel just pinged off. The top bracket has snapped off. The rest of the interior trim has been good and seems high quality - but the seat surrounds are poor quality thin plastic.

The single worse thing about the Emira - the touch sensitive steering wheel buttons. These drove me mad. So glad I fitted proper push buttons.
 
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You're not fussy are you? ;)

I found that after a software update in the past few months (V6 Manual) the power band of the car has been mucher smooth and pulls stronger.

The sound system only allows certain frequencies to certain speakers so you should get more individual speaker level adjustment by adjusting the EQ. The bass rattling sound is flaps of the rear cabin vent which is located just beside the main sub. There should be a fix somewhere eon this forum.

The car is super light on the front end so when accelerating the front end will raise, changing the geometry of the suspension depending on the camber of the road causing it to turn in a certain direction. This is exaggerated by the hydraulic rack and steering geometry.

I'm only guessing about the clutch pedal, but I think it may be vibration of the actual cable since you notice it more on steady rev range rather than while changing revs. I haven't noticed it myself, but have not checked it either.

Fogging LED lighting enclosures seem to be a common theme on a lot of new cars now.
 
The single worse thing about the Emira - the touch sensitive steering wheel buttons. These drove me mad. So glad I fitted proper push buttons.
I found the buttons really annoying too until I realised that I could just use them as push buttons instead and have been fine ever since.
 
Thanks (!) MiamiBlue for starting this thread and the detailed write-up (and the others who've contributed). I've just nicely parked my Emira and after just over 1.5 years and daily driving it during the non-winter months, I've had ZERO problems/issues, other than having to drive it 3 hours one-way to my closest dealership for software updates. It's got about 11,000km (almost 7,000 miles) and comparing it to the 2020 and 2023 C8's I had for just over a year and about 12,000km each, IMO it's a got a far superior "true sports-car vibe" (aka the "Lotus driving feel") with more responsive steering and it requires more of my driving attention, rather than the "luxury feel" of the Corvette driving with all its bells/whistles. I added a set of front side A-pillar Alpine tweeters and the rear 10" Kicker subwoofer (and some sound insulation), plus the 3rd cat delete with Millteck valve control unit, so that's resolved my "ear concerns" with the stereo audio and exhaust note.

I'm now in a new Mercedes E450 for the winter which is of course a totally different vehicle: all-wheel on demand, +++ quieter and +++ more luxurious with far too many options (moreso electronic gizmos; many of which I'll never use...including self-parking). It's got the same heads-up display my Corvettes had, which is something I do miss on the Emira, for both convenience and safety. I also miss having a convertible, like my C8's, but would never trade a convertible for my Emira manual transmission. But no real complaints with the Emira and I'm ++ looking forward to daily driving it again with a repeat of the occasional track use, starting in the spring. I had it totally PPF wrapped right after purchase, then finally had it ceramic coated just before parking it last month. I usually do this with all my new vehicles, however the Emira is the first one I've totally wrapped, as opposed to the usual front PPF. So far, the Emira is the most fun/beautiful vehicle, I've ever owned, which explains why I couldn't resist posting the recent photos below, which show what's snoozing under a cover for now. One happy Emira and first-time-Lotus owner's perspective.

IMG_4474.webpIMG_4475.webp
 
I found the buttons really annoying too until I realised that I could just use them as push buttons instead and have been fine ever since.
I know you could just use them touch buttons. It was inadvertently touching them all the time that was the problem. Also having to look down at them to see where to press all the time, not keeping your eyes on the road as they were not tactile/raised like actual buttons are. The membrane/touch-sensitive buttons are just cheaper and a way for them to save a few pennies, the only advantage they have is you can "swipe" with them but that function has no real useful purpose on the Emira's interface.
 
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I know you could just use them touch buttons. It was inadvertently touching them all the time that was the problem. Also having to look down at them to see were to press all the time, not keeping your eyes on the road as they were not tactile/raised like actual buttons are. The membrane/touch-sensitive buttons are just cheaper and a way for them to save a few pennies, the only advantage they have is you can "swipe" with them but that function has no real useful purpose on the Emira's interface.
Exactly that and the reason I swapped them out to buttons as soon as I could. Miles better!
 
I also have a newer dash rattle that seems to come from the top front area and is noticeable driving over any bumps or rough surfaces. I don't think this one is so easy to rectify and may require the dash top to be lifted. Normally rattles in cars wind me up and I go to great trouble to fix them. But perhaps because the Emira is a noisy place already it hasn't bothered me too much.
See my post #4 in thread “interior rattles……” easy fix.
Also, dash top integral to entire dash unit; removed as an entire piece:
Did not want dealer to do, possibly creating additional problems….
 
我最近达到了10K的里程碑,我想为了参考,我会列出我所有的问题。其中一些可能是汽车的“特征”,而不是实际的故障。这有点冗长,但也许有人会在将来搜索时找到它,并会有用。

首先,在我的整个拥有期内,这辆车从未发动不灵,从未显示过CEL,也从未遇到过任何让我无法驾驶和享受这辆车的问题。它也从未安装过电池充电器,并且经常在几周内没有任何问题。我认为以下所有问题都相对较小,我可以诚实地说,它比我的凯曼718更可靠。


所以我们开始了。。


油漆吸塑剂

大约一年后,我发现了常见的油漆起泡/气泡。在两扇车门的顶部边缘。有趣的是,它们似乎在短时间内出现在两侧。似乎是某种特定的标准(温度周期?)导致了它们的产生。两扇车在保修期内更换,没有车大约两周。油漆车间在油漆匹配和混合方面做得不错,但在改装方面做得不太好。我在更高的车速(60英里/小时以上)时明显增加了风噪声,这可能是导致我的一个嘎吱声的原因。重新调整车门似乎有帮助。


前置扬声器中置扬声器的低音嗡嗡声。

仪表盘上的前中央扬声器在播放音乐时会以特定的低音频振动/嗡嗡作响。我一直认为这个前扬声器对音响系统过于主导。它明显比两个门扬声器大。我希望有一个“调音器”控制来增加门扬声器的音量,因为它们看起来质量更高。我试图按下格栅,但似乎没有帮助。我从某处读到,某个软件更新改变了这种前后平衡,但尚未得到证实。


打开窗户会导致从门后/门后区域发出低沉的嘎吱声。

我最初的猜测是,完全关上窗户是为了让原本松动的东西振动起来。但通过按压不同的装饰件,我无法让它停止。完全关上窗口,它就消失了。

总的来说,我对KEF音响系统感到失望。就其成本和炒作而言,这让我失望。KEF负责一些非常高端的音乐设备。我不知道他们怎么搞错了。当论坛成员在后座上增加150美元的扩音低音扬声器并显著改善音质时,这说明了很多问题。公平地说,我认为是这个后开式低音扬音器引起了声音投诉。我以前的所有车(包括2个座位)在头后都有全范围的扬声器。我的718配备了BOSE音响系统,听起来明显更好。我在开车门时也会听到普通低音扬声音的“砰砰”声(可能是10次中的1次?),这已经有很好的报道。


内部响声

后面的标题会发出“砰砰”和弯曲的声音。如果我把手伸回去,把手指卡在标题后面的间隙里,我可以减小/改变声音。我认为把橡胶块或其他东西塞进这个间隙可以固定标题并解决这个问题。这个故障在网上有很好的报道。

我还有一个较新的仪表盘响声,似乎来自前部的顶部区域,在行驶在任何凸起或粗糙表面上时都很明显。我认为这个问题不太容易纠正,可能需要抬起仪表盘顶部。通常汽车的响声会让我头疼,我会费很大劲去修理它们。但也许因为Emira已经是一个嘈杂的地方,这并没有让我太困扰。


"雨刷故障"仪表盘消息

我记得在过去的10K里,我有三次在发动汽车时短暂地收到了“雨刮器故障”的信息。雨刮器似乎工作正常。我不确定这是软件故障还是传感器问题。但这种情况非常少见,会立即消失,也没有实际的明显故障。


侧座塑料面板破损夹

司机侧座椅的外侧面板很容易从底部边缘脱落。我认为是一个破损的塑料夹。进出车辆时侧支架上的压力,甚至快速转弯都会导致夹子脱落。我想这是常见且有报道的。通常是顶部脱落的,但对我来说似乎是底部。当我下车时,我发现自己用手固定它以防止它脱落。


后视镜振动

后视镜在粗糙的路面上会震动/抖动。这相当轻微,不会引起任何问题。我读到过关于这是汽车的故障还是“特征”的混杂报道。我车上的运动悬挂系统可能导致了这种效果。


乘客侧遮阳板未完全关闭

乘客侧的遮阳板没有完全关闭,在“关闭”位置时会有一些动作。
我看到其他人报道过这种情况。如果是驾驶员侧面的问题,那会很烦人。铰链机构不太好。我能看到这些故障在汽车上随着年久失效。我尽量不使用驾驶员面罩,除非我真的需要它。


当从发动机转速减压时,离合器振动/震动通过离合器踏板感觉到

起初,我以为在踩下离合器踏板时会有轻微的“光栅”或粗糙。然后我意识到,当发动机熄火或低怠速时,这种情况不会发生。离合器非常平滑。我意识到这与发动机转速有关,当推下离合器的踏板时,你能感觉到发动机转速(飞轮?)的运动通过踏板传递。我还注意到,如果汽车处于中立状态,我转动发动机并踩下离合作用踏板,我仍然能感觉到震动。在这种情况下,离合器没有直接连接到发动机,所以我不确定震动是如何传递的?通过离合器壳,还是液压油(如果可能的话)?我观察到,在汽车升温后,这种效果似乎会增加。如果我在换档时加速,效果也会减少。如果我保持速度和转速,踩下离配合用踏板换档,效果会更明显。我认为这种感觉一直存在,我只是在最近几千英里时注意到的(一旦你注意到某件事,你就不能忽视它!)。它没有变得更糟,也没有影响任何事情。我从未


雨刷颤抖器

在某些(增加挡风玻璃摩擦)条件下,刮水器在操作时会颤动。第一次刮擦时,刮水器清除挡风玻璃时是光滑的,然后在回程时会颤抖。我以前听说过这种情况,并被告知新车(或保修更换)会用更强的发动机来修复它。


后灯照明

如果我对压力清洗机稍微粗暴一点,我可能会在后灯中发现一些杂物,这些杂物会在一两天后消失。我听说其他车主已经更换了他们的灯。有人指着说明书说,前灯和后灯在向外通风时出现一些杂物是正常的。


动力转向油泄漏吗?

在第一次维修时,经销商说他们发现了某种与转向相关的油漏。我没有出现任何症状,也没有意识到这个问题。它在保修期内得到了修复。显然相当常见。我不知道具体是什么故障,但很高兴在出现任何问题之前就被发现了。这可能是我唯一的实际机械故障,而我甚至不知道自己有这个问题。


反向齿轮啮合可能迟缓

有时候,如果没有一点力气,车子不喜欢倒车。我意识到,如果我先进入1档,它会滑向倒车。这在机械上似乎更有同情心,这也是我现在的做法。其他档都运转得很好。关于埃米拉变速箱及其对调整的敏感性有很多讨论。由于我的变速箱总体运转良好,所以我把它放在一边。


DAB收音机

DAB收音机接收很弱,搜索新台站后,它很快就会忘记(或丢失?)它们,我不得不再次扫描。我知道这种情况相当普遍,Lotus有解决方法。我很少使用这台收音机,所以我没有再继续追踪它。


加速度下轻微向右拉动。

我注意到,在中等到硬加速下,汽车会稍微向右拉,导致需要稍微的左转向输入才能保持直线。一旦你卸下动力,汽车就会直线返回。我最初以为我只是需要一个地球仪,但在进行了全加权地球仪和轮胎压力检查后,这种行为仍然存在。这是一个小影响,我妻子开车时根本不会注意到(但她有一次在轮胎半平的情况下开车一周,完全没有注意到)。

当你在高速公路上巡航时,当你放下脚时,车子开始稍微向右转。熄火后,车子会直起来。

需要明确的是,在车轮对齐机上,地球仪是完美的。它制动直线,巡航时也完全直线。它刚刚处于“发动机负载”之下。我现在最好的猜测是,悬架或发动机支架有问题,在动态负载时引起了一些运动。

我单独发布了更多细节,其他人也注意到了这一点。目前还没有人找到解决方案。你可以查看就在这里。另一个论坛上也讨论过这个问题在这里.


性能低于预期,转速范围最高时偶尔会飙升

这辆车感觉没有我预期的400马力轻型车那么快。我的保时捷718(350马力)感觉明显更快。虽然我意识到这可能是涡轮增压效应和低下压扭矩的可用性。所以,我怀疑这里有什么问题。但我注意到,有时在加速时,我在转速范围内会感觉到额外的“猛增”动力,而其他时候在转速范围内感觉完全线性。就像它有时在阻碍我!我不确定为什么会这样,可能是因为我感觉到一种错觉,每次或每次车在不同的档位/驾驶情况下都是一样的。


结论和其他想法

这是在10K和将近两年后的情况。我即将迎来第二次服务,并将提出一些这些问题。我住的地方离经销商不远,所以我没有追踪这些问题,因为它们没有阻止我驾驶和享受这辆车。与我在这里读到的一些恐怖故事相比,我认为自己总体上相当幸运。


我真的很喜欢这辆车。每次开它都感觉很特别,看起来像一辆超级跑车。

但我喜欢机械零件没有异国情调,而且是主流的。底部有一个丰田2GR-FE发动机,虽然不是新的或“高级”的发动机,但它非常耐用且经过了充分验证。莲花甚至让它听起来很棒。我知道有些车主会选择非常短的换油间隔,甚至添加一个油罐以增加发动机的寿命,但我怀疑有人会看到这笔投资的回报。如果我继续这样驾驶,未来10年,我将达到大约5万英里。对于这些丰田的零件来说,这个数字几乎没有突破。

我也喜欢它的前灯。没有人谈论它们,但如果你以前有过其他莲花车,我无法告诉你它们有多好。它们达到了现代德国LED的水平。

内饰也是一个可爱的地方,看起来特别且高档。我唯一的批评是,尽管材料是高质量的(所有东西都覆盖了许多真正的意大利阿尔坎塔拉和纳帕皮革),但它并没有像应该的那样“拧紧”。我不应该在10K后看到破损的装饰、响声和破损的遮阳板。我还发现挡风玻璃区域有一些泡沫。我想知道这些车在一段时间后能承受多长时间。我6岁的保时捷没有这些问题(但它有冷却液泄漏和发动机传感器故障)。也许我们不应该在大件工作时为小件烦恼。
谢谢分享!
我是行驶不到1000英里的新人和新车EmiRa V6 MT,请大家多多关照!
 

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