Track Cars & Brake Issues

[OppositeLock]

Reading your thread was ultimately the reason I chose these pads. It’s good to hear you’re not experiencing this. Have you done anything else to your system? (Ducting, rotors etc?)

I'm running Girodiscs now, since I used up the OEM rotors. They definitely feel better, and the OEM rotors did have more vibrations, which I guess could be defined as chunkiness.

 

[Savanna7]

I'm running Girodiscs now, since I used up the OEM rotors. They definitely feel better, and the OEM rotors did have more vibrations, which I guess could be defined as chunkiness.

Sounds like that’s the next move then. Thank you for the input! I may try different pads next time as well. We’ll see.

 

[RoryBellows]

I just did my second track day on the stock pads/rotors and it did okay. Its smooth stopping all the way up until ABS kicks in.

 

[Savanna7]

I am not sure I understand the sensation of "chunky." I only have 2K mi. on the car and attended four track days thus far. I cannot say the brakes are great on the Emira, adequate probably is a better way of describing it for me. I have Jubu cooling vanes, Pagid RSL29 pads and RBF 660.

The way I would normally brake did not work for me on the Emira. Going from ~130 mph to 45, for example, I normally would apply the brakes pretty hard initially, then gradually taper off into the corner and transition to throttle. This worked well with my Porsches and BMWs, not so in the Emira. I had to gradually build up the brake pressure, then start to tapper off into the corner. This gradual build up is still quite rapid, but not as before, it takes about 0.5-0.7 secs. With the former method on the Emira I felt the pedal felt very hard, essentially like ICE mode. I believe the ABS was kicking in. With the later method, braking has been very consistent for more than 10 laps each session. I have confidence in braking, but necessarily the performance of my previous cars.

The downside is that the maximum negative g I could generate with the Emira is about 1.1-1.2, whereas with the others cars, I could consistently get -1.4-1.6. I do not know if any of this helps you, but I hope you find the issue and the fix.

Cheers.

I was just watching this video on a ZR1 comparison and what this professional driver is saying is nearly identical to your analysis. Maybe I'll give another track day a go before making any other adjustments. It could be ABS that I'm actually feeling although ours is hydraulic. I'm not sure.

24:50 is where it starts.

 

[Ft.S]

I was just watching this video on a ZR1 comparison and what this professional driver is saying is nearly identical to your analysis. Maybe I'll give another track day a go before making any other adjustments. It could be ABS that I'm actually feeling although ours is hydraulic. I'm not sure.

24:50 is where it starts.

He is certainly talking about what I experienced. The exception is that we can feel the change in brake pedal pressure, which is not communicated to the driver properly with electric systems, so we have one advantage. For our cars and for this specific issue, I think the real solution is to move to 265 section front tires on 9" wheels, and/or change in rotors as others suggested. Until then, I'll be gentle with the brakes