Emira track impressions

[OppositeLock]

I'm not going to butcher the car for now, and I'll be content to flop around for a while. It's just so pretty inside. When I get sick of it, i guess it'll be tillet B10. I think I'll wait for the passenger side airbag and weight sensor issues to be resolved.

 

[geoffbland]

After thinking about it, the next best upgrade would be proper seats with harnesses. I bunch of my mistakes came from being tossed around like a leaf in the wind.

Just rechecked your video and I think I see you have the grey leather seats. This was one of my take-aways from my test drives I really wanted the Alcantara seats as I felt I was sliding around on the leather seats too, whilst the Alcantara held my arse in place. So interesting that you found yourself sliding in the seat on track as it conforms what I thought. The dealer also said the Alcantara had a slightly lower driving position - not sure about that though.

 

[OppositeLock]

Yeah, but leather ages more nicely. Alcantara gets quite funky with time. One of the reasons I bought my Emira over the used 600Lt I was considering was the sad state of 5 year old alcantara in the McLaren.

 

[sirringo]

I'm not going to butcher the car for now, and I'll be content to flop around for a while. It's just so pretty inside. When I get sick of it, i guess it'll be tillet B10. I think I'll wait for the passenger side airbag and weight sensor issues to be resolved.

You might try this. It's not elegant, but I've heard it's exceptionally effective. It's literally an adjustable strap that goes behind your seat and around your torso to secure you to the seat.

Torso Harness

Torso Harness with quick-release, adjusts from 20” to 64” and is available in Black, Blue, and Red, For Bucket-style seats only.

www.gforce.com

 

[RoryBellows]

If you can track one down they used to make a thing called a CG-Lock that would let you cinch up your seatbelt and it would lock it in. They stopped making them a few years back though.

The other option is to slide your seat back a bit and get the seatbelt so that its locked and snug, then slide the seat forward to really clamp it down.

 

[OppositeLock]

I had a CG lock in my gear - it was so old the spindle for the tightener rusted apart, so struck out there. Also, the Emira driver's seat doesn't ratchet, so that tight seat belt trick doesn't work. That torso strap looks hilarious - I wonder if it works.

 

[virtualmacho]

You might try this. It's not elegant, but I've heard it's exceptionally effective. It's literally an adjustable strap that goes behind your seat and around your torso to secure you to the seat.

Torso Harness

Torso Harness with quick-release, adjusts from 20” to 64” and is available in Black, Blue, and Red, For Bucket-style seats only.

www.gforce.com

Never heard of these. Kind of reminds me of a different type of restraint...

 

[crainp]

I had a CG lock in my gear - it was so old the spindle for the tightener rusted apart, so struck out there. Also, the Emira driver's seat doesn't ratchet, so that tight seat belt trick doesn't work. That torso strap looks hilarious - I wonder if it works.

it will lock. Ran about 5 track sessions and no problem.

 

[OppositeLock]

Interesting! Mine doesn't lock. I pulled it out all the way, no ratchet. Passenger side locks.

 

[crainp]

Interesting! Mine doesn't lock. I pulled it out all the way, no ratchet. Passenger side locks.

Mine is a late 2014 build, I4. Takes a few jerks, but it will lock. That and the chest strap mentioned above held me fine. Have many years with harnesses so "fine" means no issues sliding around. It has an oem roll bar and air bags so that's what I am hoping works if I ever need it.

 

[Tracked Emira]

After thinking about it, the next best upgrade would be proper seats with harnesses. I bunch of my mistakes came from being tossed around like a leaf in the wind.

Just get GRP harness bar & 4 point seatbelt like I did for now

 

[gcmak]

Thanks for continuing to share your experiences and journey. I didn't see the other two HPDEs you did on your YouTube channel; were you not recording them? I know you didn't drive the car at East on the stock touring suspension but I am curious how the car's attitude looked from inside the cabin at those other tracks.

 

[OppositeLock]

Sadly, I have no video from my first track day, and extremely overexposed, unusable video from my second one, because these Aim Smartycams are a pain in the butt to configure. I still miss the occasional session recording due to strange behaviors.

The car definitely rolled and pitched a bit more with the touring suspension. With the Nitrons, it still leans over, but that's ok, because that's actually more grip than making it totally flat with stiff sway bars.

I found a photo from each track day with the most visible lean. The one on the right, on the softer springs, clearly leans more.

 

[gcmak]

Sadly, I have no video from my first track day, and extremely overexposed, unusable video from my second one, because these Aim Smartycams are a pain in the butt to configure. I still miss the occasional session recording due to strange behaviors.

The car definitely rolled and pitched a bit more with the touring suspension. With the Nitrons, it still leans over, but that's ok, because that's actually more grip than making it totally flat with stiff sway bars.

I found a photo from each track day with the most visible lean. The one on the right, on the softer springs, clearly leans more.

Thanks, understood. I'm fine with pitch/dive/roll - weight transfer is a beautiful thing. Controlled weight transfer though haha. My sport suspension - visually - compresses just as much under load. I'll have to visit Laguna later this year in the Emira. Anyways enjoy your new upgrades!

 

[Chriscpm]

I've been going to the track. I don't have as much experience as you guys. I went to Spring Mountain two times for the 2 day C8 schools, so 4 days total. Then some lead follow sets at the Corvette museum.

When I bought my Emira, I wasn't planning on tracking. I went once, had a blast and keep going.

For me, I'm looking at costs more than the slowest times. Especially if someone else can hop in my car and get better times. That difference is what I'm interested in.

At Miami-Homestead, my buddy did a 1:33 with me as weight. He said he was no pushing very hard. I can do a 1:35 solo. At Sebring, My best is 2:37 solo. Then a 2:35 with a coach pushing me. That same coach did a 2:27. It seem like he was pretty rough on the car to do that.

I'm going back to Homestead next week after 4 trip to Sebring. I suspect I'll get some nice times.

On tires, I burned through the GY stock in 2.5 track days. Cords on the sides showing. I did an alignment to get more camber. Not enough though. Then I went with 200 TW Continentals. I got 9 days from those. I might have had a few more, but I picked up a nail. So Tirerack will pay for one, so I did a new set. I ordered the same. I hear Cup2s are good, but only for 2 days.

I got a quote for a local guy for custom control arms to get more camber. $6500. That's too much for me.

I like the theory of the seat upgrade, but I drive this on I-95. So I don't want to loose any factory protection. They literally are insane on the road here. I don't feel like I'm flopping too much.

I'm trying new front pads. Ferodo 1.11. EBC Blue and Rotora R8 don;t hold up very long.

Here is a video. It looks faster with the camera on the front glass than the back.

 

[gcmak]

For me, I'm looking at costs more than the slowest times. Especially if someone else can hop in my car and get better times. That difference is what I'm interested in.

Chris - I think as long as you're having a good time (however you might want to define that for yourself) and are being safe for yourself and those around you, keep doing what you're doing! I like to understand what I can get out of a car before going ham on mods because I get the most enjoyment out of unlocking skills. For anyone who follows Randy Pobst and an older series of track tests he used to do with bone stock cars at Laguna Seca, he smashes the lap times of many track day drivers because he is incredibly adaptable and has a huge repository of skills to tap from at any given second. That's what I admire and aspire to build over time myself.

I'll be keen to hear your feedback on the DS1.11 - a pad I would try next as well. Tire wear is a huge compromise of a lot of factors. If you're still chewing at the edges but don't want to spend the money on hardware, you have a few options - change how you corner, change your tire pressures, and manage temperatures throughout a session.

Not here to rain on anyone's parade but playing loud music in the car on track has a few down sides to consider (which you may have already decided it's ok for you); it doesn't let you hear the tires as much so you're lacking one sensory input on how they're performing at or beyond the limits of grip, you're less likely to hear mechanical noises that could be a sign of a problem, and similarly you are losing a potential input of hearing another car closing in fast and perhaps they're not following your run group rules of point by or they have some sort of issue (skill issue or mechanical) that you might be able to avoid a collision with if you missed visual cues.

 

[OppositeLock]

For me, costs are important as well, and I don't want to do too much to the car. I'm not going to add power or aero since it's expensive, but also, I don't want to mess up a beautiful car. I'm mostly done. Maybe one day I'll do the seat, but that's a reversible change.

The biggest cost is tires, brakes and maintenance from tracking. I destroyed a set of touring Goodyears in one track day (front right was toast), my PS2 Cups also didn't fare well. These Dunlops I'm using now seem to have 2 track days in them, they're about 1/2 done after one track day, but the 2nd half goes faster than the first half. It costs exponential $$ for each additional second you shave off.

 

[Tracked Emira]

Sadly, I have no video from my first track day, and extremely overexposed, unusable video from my second one, because these Aim Smartycams are a pain in the butt to configure. I still miss the occasional session recording due to strange behaviors.

The car definitely rolled and pitched a bit more with the touring suspension. With the Nitrons, it still leans over, but that's ok, because that's actually more grip than making it totally flat with stiff sway bars.

I found a photo from each track day with the most visible lean. The one on the right, on the softer springs, clearly leans more.

BOOMGEAR makes sway bars.
Based on your experience with the Nitrons, that I will order, should I get the aftermarket sway bars? They probably make 2 thickness, so should I get the least thick sway bars or don’t get any sway bars?

 

[PatrickJS]

from what I learned. only get swaybars if you don't plan on getting coilover but want less sway. unless youre hardcore track car then sure you can do both swaybars and coilover.

stage 1: swaybars
stage 2: coilovers only
stage 3: coilovers and swaybars

 

[jp129]

Sway bar rates, like spring rates, are tools to help adjust the axle balance, weight transfer behavior, or motion control characteristics. They work together as the entire spring system (tires included). Without knowing what the driver is trying to eliminate or induce, it's hard to say what's the ideal modification.

One person's preferences are also going to be very different to another. With suspension modifications, the best approach is to assess what you, your car, your tires, and your driving style is exhibiting. What do you like about it and what don't you like about it.

From there you can assess if a spring system adjustment can help, and more importantly, which spring system to adjust. Everything works together and it's all a compromise somewhere, you need to pick where you'll be willing to compromise.

Perhaps we can convince someone to fabricate a nascar style adjustable style swaybar for this chassis .