Dealer recently flagged my original battery at 50% life remaining and replaced it with a superior AGM-style unit, saying the OEM product was (sort of) substandard. This was at approx. 4,000 miles.A multimeter won't perform a proper battery health check. Voltage is not a measure of power. You need a proper load tester. And even amongst load testers, there is a wide variability in the result they can provide. (see video)
Like nimbus mentioned here, what is "some"?
There is a chance your battery is totally fine for years to come. If the engine is starting well and the computers aren't throwing random codes like they do these days when there are large voltage drops during cranking, then I wouldn't replace it. If you have a manual trans, you can wait until the day it doesn't start and just bump-start it to your local auto parts store to get every penny out of what you have.
These 'age' assessments should factor in your car's date of manufacture (mine was 10/23). No telling how long the stock battery sat in inventory beforehand. Also car use and climate considerations.
The idea of being stranded after a spirited drive to a remote destination didn't appeal to me.
I now have a better idea of battery life timeline.
Others are managing this situation with monitors as well as replacing OEM with lighter, better performing units.
FWIW







