Speaker / Amp Upgrade STL Models Available

krb5137

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Nov 27, 2025
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Status:
Emira Owner
My Specs:
Emira V6
Hey all,

I just finished an overhaul of the stereo system on my car. I replaced all of the speakers, removed the factory "sub" and (like KJWEmira and others) used that space to install an aftermarket DSP/Amplifier.

I engineered a number of 3D printed parts to accomplish the install, including new door mounts, tweeter mounts, rear speaker mounts, and an amp mount for the sub normally located in the left rear of the car. Pictures of each designed part are below with descriptions.

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The tweeter cups into the tweeter ring, and the tweeter is then secured to the ring using a typical metal spring style install bar that comes with most tweeters. The tweeter ring is then glued to the A-Pillar tweeter location (after removing the plastic tabs meant to grab onto the factory tweeter (that we didn't get).
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The door speakers mount to this speaker adapter. The three larger holes accept three of the large bolts that mount the black plastic inner door panel to the door. I used threaded brass inserts to receive M4 size screws to mount the actual speakers. To install these, I used a Dremel to cut the original speaker mounts out (those speakers look cool but are actually garbage). This took all of five minutes and isn't a big deal at all to do.

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The rear speakers mount to these speaker adapters, and the adapter mounts to the original four mounting holes for the rear speakers. These adapters are the correct thickness such that if you use 1" adhesive speaker foam on the front of the adapter, that foam presses firmly against the stock circular flange on the rear body panels to maximize sound quality.

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For the amp, I did a 3D scan of the subwoofer cavity and custom designed a mount that holds the amplifier using the bolt holes originally used by the sub. The amp rests in a cradle on the floor of the cavity and then is held in place by the arms you can see above. I put VHB tape below the cradle and on the surfaces where the amp rests against the arms. Then a 2" velcro strap loops through the arms and holds the AMP in place.

Happy to share these models to the extent it is useful for people to print themselves. Based on my research, I would recommending printing these in ABS (I used carbon fiber reinforced ABS).

Happy to answer questions. The improvement in sound quality is ASTOUNDING.
 
What speakers, amp did you use?

No subwoofer now?

Thanks for sharing, I'm interested.
 
It’s awesome that you spent so much time and effort, and are willing to VERY, VERY GENEROUSLY share, free of charge.

Thank you!
 
I used a Helix p six ultimate dsp/amp (that is what the amp mount is sized for, but could very easily be resized for others).

I ended up using the same speakers that KJWEmira used because I knew they would fit. Hertz ML280.3 tweeters. Hertz ML 1650.3 mid bass for the doors and Hertz CX130 coax speakers for the rears.

The tweeters are installed with high temp hot glue so they can be unglued and serviced etc. the tweeter rings are somewhat sacrificial in that you avoid having to glue the tweeters themselves. It is essentially completely reversible.

After doing the install, it’s clear to me that MANY different speakers will work (but 6.5” is about all you can fit on the doors due to various space constraints).

For the sub I’m currently using a JL ACS110LG-TW1 powered sub box installed behind the passenger seat. If it get a wild hair, I may design a custom stylized box for the shelf, but that’s a project for another day.

Happy to share more thoughts. I learned a ton during the process and would be happy to share what I can.
 
A few other notes - I grounded the main amp on the left side rear seat rail bolt. I ran the ground cable under the left side rear panel (which is right at the floor) and directly to the rail. Happy to share pictures of that if useful. It is a really strong ground with almost no resistance.

For the sub amp, I ran power from the fuse panel behind the left side seat (immediately next to the rear shelf). I grounded it on one of the anchor bolts for the silver retention loops on the floor of the rear shelf. That is also a really strong ground with almost no resistance. I am getting good power and the amp is running nice and cool--so the ground points are good.
 
It’s awesome that you spent so much time and effort, and are willing to VERY, VERY GENEROUSLY share, free of charge.

Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. Happy to help out. I've learned a ton from this community, glad to be able to contribute for a change.
 

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