📓 Journals kitkat's Emira

This prefix is only usable in the Lotus Emira Journals forum.
For anyone curious about the Jubu Ohlins TTX kit, I think the damper is quite limited on the Emira platform if you’re looking to be lower than stock.

When you install the damper and adjust the body length so that the front wheel clears lock to lock and has no risk of destroying your fender under full compression to the bump stops — you’re left with maybe 2.5” of total damper travel from full droop to touching bump stops. At a ride height of about 20mm lower than stock you’re left with about 1” of compression travel before bump stops engage and the rear is even worse. This is likely why they have 1200 lbs/in springs.

I’ve never seen the dampers for their other spring rate offerings, but likely my only recourse right now is raising the car to a higher ride height to regain bump travel.

It’s fine and they ride well but I was expecting some good travel from the damper. Maybe some of this is me picking a softer spring rate and revalving and self caused.

Next up will be fine tuning the damping.
Thanks for the info. Can you help me understand why this is the shock and not the suspension geometry? If you're going from full droop to max compression, isn't that just geometry?

Or maybe it's an attribute of the shock because the shock is what impacts full droop? But during driving, the shock will already be compressed to ride height anyways. But there's probably something I'm not grok'ing
 
Here’s a fun one, I’ve been working on a touchscreen oled dial for the Emira when you have a Milltek valve controller.

This controller has support to:
- Act as a new third remote for your Milltek valve controller (default behavior)
- Act as a clone of an existing remote

- Swipe through valve modes (Open, Closed, OEM)
- 1 second press to emergency switch to closed and 1 second press to go back to the mode you were at before.
- User configurable quiet zones for making your exhaust quiet when you’re at home or within close proximity to a fixed sound check at the race track.

I’m still working on some hardware, small software tweaks, and where to mount — got a couple options there.

View attachment 74783

View attachment 74784
If this could somehow control the mode setting for the electrons, it would be a quantum leap forward in terms of UI for nitron’s new system.

the current knob presents profound ergonomical and legibility challenges to the user in driver’s seat.

If possible. Your oled dial would be such a cool way to solve that problem. Of course I have no idea how to turn a 12 position click knob (which may or may not be a potentiometer) into something which could interface with your very impressive oled touchscreen.

I’d buy one, and I bet every Nitron electron buyer would too.

Regardless, bravo and well done! Looks awesome. Hope you had a happy and healthy holiday season and a joyous new year.
 
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Thanks for the info. Can you help me understand why this is the shock and not the suspension geometry? If you're going from full droop to max compression, isn't that just geometry?

Or maybe it's an attribute of the shock because the shock is what impacts full droop? But during driving, the shock will already be compressed to ride height anyways. But there's probably something I'm not grok'ing

It is the suspension geometry and but then you need to design a shock and spring to work within those confines. Maybe a 1200 lbs spring works better on a shock that has so little travel vs how i revalved it. Maybe the shock would have been better as a full remote instead of an inline so you can play with the damper body and shock piston length. The ILX TTX might just be limited that way.
 
Still working out fitment issues and ride height but new wheel day, look at how chonky those tires look:

1768581211454.webp

1768581379810.webp


- 19x9.5" Vitour P1 275/35/19
- 20x11" Vitour P1 305/30/20

Ran into some clearance issues up front, I had to bend the brake hose bracket inboard on the control arm to make clearance, and I had to dump the front brake ducting from the GT3, will try to remount with more trimming later.

1768581351404.webp
 
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Even the fronts have a bit of concavity.

1768581473625.webp
 
Are we doing the same offsets because that looks amazing?
Just osted that my car is on Everyday Driver!
hes got staggered setup 19x20. but otherwise yes.
 
Are we doing the same offsets because that looks amazing?
Just osted that my car is on Everyday Driver!

I've been working with Suntory on his track fitment wheels and all the specific fitments will be similar, his will be very similar but lighter, stronger and way more track focused.

Offsets are just one parameter of many. Lots of work to clear like brake calipers, emergency brake calipers, sway bar end links, brake hose brackets, brake hoses themselves, wheel speed sensor wiring, fenders, fender liners and even control arms. It's been a process!
 
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How are you liking the ttx?

I picked spring rates that are 45% stiffer up front and 22% stiffer in the rear. There's far less on brake dive and rearwards lift when accelerating. The car has far less body roll on turn in and mid corner as well. I haven't had much time to adjust compression and rebound, I left it at the recommended settings that Performance Shock recommended which was like 10 clicks from full soft.

Need to spend some time in the next couple weeks dialing them in to figure out any balance in understeer/oversteer. Comfort so far has zero compromise over stock suspension.
 
275s up front clearing well, initially I was getting some sound at the extremes while moving forward or backwards but that was likely due to the shiny sectioned tiles in the driveway and the brand new tires with the ackerman on this suspension geometry causing skipping.

Only really thing that may need to be done is bending over the brake hose bracket into the center of the upper control arm up front, takes 10 seconds to do so.

If you don’t do this on 9.5” wheels and you’re at 19” or 18” — that bracket will likely hit your wheel at the extremes and put a nice scratch into your wheels, just like this…

IMG_6338.webp
 
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275s up front clearing well, initially I was getting some sound at the extremes while moving forward or backwards but that was likely due to the shiny sectioned tiles in the driveway and the brand new tires with the ackerman on this suspension geometry causing skipping.

Only really thing that may need to be done is bending over the brake hose bracket into the center of the upper control arm up front, takes 10 seconds to do so.

If you don’t do this on 9.5” wheels and you’re at 19” or 18” — that bracket will likely hit your wheel at the extremes and put a nice scratch into your wheels, just like this…

View attachment 76143
Thank you for letting us know, especially since I just ordered my 18s
Did you take a before and after pic of how much you bent it?
 
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Excuse my crude drawing. but essentially you bend it according to the fantastic arrow's direction.
Thank you for letting us know, especially since I just ordered my 18s
Did you take a before and after pic of how much you bent it?
1768785769473.webp
 
Thank you for letting us know, especially since I just ordered my 18s
Did you take a before and after pic of how much you bent it?

I don’t have a before picture but the bracket stands straight up on the upper control arm stock, if you don’t bend them the wheel will bend the bracket outboard and twist it and it’ll lead to digging into the rim edge. Just bend it towards the center of the control arm, it’ll be super obvious when you put the wheel on. I just bent it as far as it would go which isn’t very much you can scroll up for a photo.

Did you buy Suntory’s track wheels?
 
I don’t have a before picture but the bracket stands straight up on the upper control arm stock, if you don’t bend them the wheel will bend the bracket outboard and twist it and it’ll lead to digging into the rim edge. Just bend it towards the center of the control arm, it’ll be super obvious when you put the wheel on. I just bent it as far as it would go which isn’t very much you can scroll up for a photo.

Did you buy Suntory’s track wheels?
Yes, they are on the 18 inch track wheel thread
 
Thank you for getting the kit designed and made to be able to run theses 18s in the rear on slicks!
1768788095879.webp
 
It is the suspension geometry and but then you need to design a shock and spring to work within those confines. Maybe a 1200 lbs spring works better on a shock that has so little travel vs how i revalved it. Maybe the shock would have been better as a full remote instead of an inline so you can play with the damper body and shock piston length. The ILX TTX might just be limited that way.
What spring rates did you go with?
 

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