📓 Journals kitkat's Emira

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Finally I have it! Thanks @mr.suntorytime for working with me to make these, they look fantastic and feel great in the hand. Really proud of this one -- wanted to mention again I don't make any money on the sale of these, I purely do this out of passion for learning design and taking it out on my poor Emira :ROFLMAO:

Wanted to give you guys my personal opinion on my experimentation with shift knob shapes and sizes over the last couple months. Maybe this can help someone pick knobs in the future, these are just my opinion, I find myself to have hands sized on the upper end of medium bordering on smaller end of large based on multiple gloves.

OEM Knob
  • Round
  • 46 mm diameter
  • Good for smaller hands
  • Good for top grip shifting
Darkworks 51mm Knob
  • Round
  • 51 mm diameter
  • Good for larger hands
  • Good for top grip shifting
Darkworks Type F Knob
  • Egg Shaped
  • 48mm diameter
  • 70mm height
  • Good for medium to larger hands
  • Good for top grip / side grip shifting
  • Ribbing makes for better grip
Upcoming Darkworks Type R Knob
  • Egg Shaped
  • 46mm diameter
  • 75mm height
  • Good for medium to larger hands
  • Good for side grip shifting
  • Comfortable pinky position
 
@kitkat do you have the weight of each of these? :) I know you love giving more info out.

Estimated 205g for the Type F and 210g for the Type R. Actual weights are coming in a few grams over estimated. There's obviously a very small percentage variance here and I'm sure the anodizing is adding a tiny bit of weight.
 
If any of you ever have a Milltek remote stop pairing with your valve controller here are the instructions to make it pair again.

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If any of you ever have a Milltek remote stop pairing with your valve controller here are the instructions to make it pair again.

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Hi Kitkat im interested in this. Does this mean that lets say in touring mode i can have the milltek run the oem gradually open valve and when i select sport/track to set it up in full open mode?
 
Hi Kitkat im interested in this. Does this mean that lets say in touring mode i can have the milltek run the oem gradually open valve and when i select sport/track to set it up in full open mode?

No sorry you can’t do that with the Milltek remotes. This product can’t change the valves from the car’s mode selection. The learning function i just posted is purely about pairing remotes.
 
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Here’s a fun one, I’ve been working on a touchscreen oled dial for the Emira when you have a Milltek valve controller.

This controller has support to:
- Act as a new third remote for your Milltek valve controller (default behavior)
- Act as a clone of an existing remote

- Swipe through valve modes (Open, Closed, OEM)
- 1 second press to emergency switch to closed and 1 second press to go back to the mode you were at before.
- User configurable quiet zones for making your exhaust quiet when you’re at home or within close proximity to a fixed sound check at the race track.

I’m still working on some hardware, small software tweaks, and where to mount — got a couple options there.

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Freshly rebuilt, revalved and sprung with what I hope will be a good compromise street and track setup. Will go in next weekend.
You didnt want to try running the old springs? 😅
 
Only got about halfway through my installation today after 4 or 5 hours — but I was struggling with removal of the old suspension with the GRP cups up front and then taking my time with checking bump to droop measurements, adjusting full damper length to avoid contact with the fenders at full lock etc.

I’ll get around to the other side tomorrow, fine tune ride height, and adjust the damper settings after that.
 

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Here’s a fun one, I’ve been working on a touchscreen oled dial for the Emira when you have a Milltek valve controller.

This controller has support to:
- Act as a new third remote for your Milltek valve controller (default behavior)
- Act as a clone of an existing remote

- Swipe through valve modes (Open, Closed, OEM)
- 1 second press to emergency switch to closed and 1 second press to go back to the mode you were at before.
- User configurable quiet zones for making your exhaust quiet when you’re at home or within close proximity to a fixed sound check at the race track.

I’m still working on some hardware, small software tweaks, and where to mount — got a couple options there.

View attachment 74783

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Very cool. Could this be configured for just open or OEM?
 
Very cool. Could this be configured for just open or OEM?

Yup, I anticipated people might want that so the GPS based restricted mode can be a setting on the SD card configuration file.
 
Only got about halfway through my installation today after 4 or 5 hours — but I was struggling with removal of the old suspension with the GRP cups up front and then taking my time with checking bump to droop measurements, adjusting full damper length to avoid contact with the fenders at full lock etc.

I’ll get around to the other side tomorrow, fine tune ride height, and adjust the damper settings after that.
Cool ! I see the Porsche brake cooling ducts are in place. How are the stainless steel zip ties holding up? Do they chew through the aluminum?
 
Cool ! I see the Porsche brake cooling ducts are in place. How are the stainless steel zip ties holding up? Do they chew through the aluminum?
Nope, holding up fine, more like I’m chewing up the brake ducts themselves :ROFLMAO:
 
For anyone curious about the Jubu Ohlins TTX kit, I think the damper is quite limited on the Emira platform if you’re looking to be lower than stock.

When you install the damper and adjust the body length so that the front wheel clears lock to lock and has no risk of destroying your fender under full compression to the bump stops — you’re left with maybe 2.5” of total damper travel from full droop to touching bump stops. At a ride height of about 20mm lower than stock you’re left with about 1” of compression travel before bump stops engage and the rear is even worse. This is likely why they have 1200 lbs/in springs.

I’ve never seen the dampers for their other spring rate offerings, but likely my only recourse right now is raising the car to a higher ride height to regain bump travel.

It’s fine and they ride well but I was expecting some good travel from the damper. Maybe some of this is me picking a softer spring rate and revalving and self caused.

Next up will be fine tuning the damping.
 

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