KEF Audio Upgrade Parts - Now Available!

Hi- do you install this kit professionally or did you just fit to your own car?
Hi John,
I just installed to my own car and engineered the speaker & amp mounts, although I've worked on cars most of my career.
I can highly recommend an installer in the South-East (Maidstone area) if you're local?
 
Speaker Wiring - The speaker outputs from the original 2 Amps are used - these original amps remain in place. Once an order is placed, I'll send you a document which contains a list of all the speaker wires & colour codes allowing quick and easy identification. The original 2 amps and Audsion amp will all situated in the same area, all that is required is to find the outputs from the original amps (using the colour code document), cut into these and connect to the input of the Audison amp.
As the speakers I've used are much larger / powerful, I suggest running new speaker wire to all speakers. When the rear of the vehicle is stripped down this will be straight forward, there is plenty of spspace.

Nice setup and parts you've made!

Is there a reason way you kept the original amps?

If there is signal lines from the head unit I assume it would be a better end result to use this and skip the original amps?

I haven't received my Emira yet, so only in planning phase of audio upgrade and seeking information to see different options.
 
Nice setup and parts you've made!

Is there a reason way you kept the original amps?

If there is signal lines from the head unit I assume it would be a better end result to use this and skip the original amps?

I haven't received my Emira yet, so only in planning phase of audio upgrade and seeking information to see different options.
Hi @Sjobing,

Good question - Unfortunately with modern cars it is just not as simple as removing a module / control unit / amp as this will log faults - all modules communicate with each other in one way or another.

Also, it is not 100% what else these amp modules serve, for example, all the warnings chimes are heard through the cars speakers together with parking sensors, mobile phone connectivity, sat-nav, radio, etc etc. and finally for the equalizer to continue to work.
My advise would be to leave the OEM products in the car and install an additional amplifier. This is where Audison has the market for integration.

Should an audio upgrade be something you are considering then its worth taking a look at the Audison Youtube page as they explain everything regarding this subject. They're expensive products but works perfectly and 100% programmable.
 
Hi @Sjobing,

Good question - Unfortunately with modern cars it is just not as simple as removing a module / control unit / amp as this will log faults - all modules communicate with each other in one way or another.

Also, it is not 100% what else these amp modules serve, for example, all the warnings chimes are heard through the cars speakers together with parking sensors, mobile phone connectivity, sat-nav, radio, etc etc. and finally for the equalizer to continue to work.
My advise would be to leave the OEM products in the car and install an additional amplifier. This is where Audison has the market for integration.

Should an audio upgrade be something you are considering then its worth taking a look at the Audison Youtube page as they explain everything regarding this subject. They're expensive products but works perfectly and 100% programmable.
Hi @KJWEmira

Thank' for a good reply.

I see your point, but I might investigate further to see what happens if original amps ar3 disconnected/removed. I intend to keep the Emira forever, so I might use some more time to build a decent sound system in it compared to my MB I use for dd/work.

My plan is to use DSP/amp from the HELIX range from Audiotec Fischer, and speakers from the Focal K2 Power M range.


Plan is tweeter on dash/a pillar, 6.5 KM in doors and 2 x Sub 5 KM in the rear. I'll make a custom cabinet for the sub's and have some ideas, but I need to get the car so I can have a closer look if my ideas is doable in the space available.

I know of Audison but I'm familiar with the DSP software from Audiotec Fischer, as I have DSP/amps from them in my MB E400d AT where I did an upgrade of the Burmester system to get it more to my taste. I've also used Focal speakers in this car and some of my former cars.
So that's the reason I stick with these brands.
 
Hi @KJWEmira

Thank' for a good reply.

I see your point, but I might investigate further to see what happens if original amps ar3 disconnected/removed. I intend to keep the Emira forever, so I might use some more time to build a decent sound system in it compared to my MB I use for dd/work.

My plan is to use DSP/amp from the HELIX range from Audiotec Fischer, and speakers from the Focal K2 Power M range.


Plan is tweeter on dash/a pillar, 6.5 KM in doors and 2 x Sub 5 KM in the rear. I'll make a custom cabinet for the sub's and have some ideas, but I need to get the car so I can have a closer look if my ideas is doable in the space available.

I know of Audison but I'm familiar with the DSP software from Audiotec Fischer, as I have DSP/amps from them in my MB E400d AT where I did an upgrade of the Burmester system to get it more to my taste. I've also used Focal speakers in this car and some of my former cars.
So that's the reason I stick with these brands.
@Sjobing - This sounds very interesting and we'd all be keen to know how your install turns out. If I can be of any assistance then please feel free to reach out (y).

Also, thank you for the links, I'll take a look at both when time permits.

Just out of curiosity, did you remove the OEM amps from your MB prior to installing the Audiotec Amp(s)?
 
@Sjobing - This sounds very interesting and we'd all be keen to know how your install turns out. If I can be of any assistance then please feel free to reach out (y).

Also, thank you for the links, I'll take a look at both when time permits.

Just out of curiosity, did you remove the OEM amps from your MB prior to installing the Audiotec Amp(s)?
@KJWEmira

I will update, but I will probably don't start any build before next winter. I will enjoy driving and finish my new garage this summer, so I have a decent working space for projects like this during winter and snow. :)

No I didn't remove the amps in my MB. Here I got a complete plug'n play harness to put the new DSP/amp into the original wiring in the car.
I also wanted to keep it fairly simple to remove all equipment I put in this car since I drive this ca 60.000 km/year and change this more often than I intend to do with the Emira.
 
with your speaker adapters, how deep of a speaker can you mount?
Hi docron,

The Hertz Mille ML 1650.3 speakers I used are 3.15 in. (80mm) depth, which easily cleared the window - see below snip direct from Hertz Audio website.

What speakers are you wanting to install?

1741889388170.webp
 
probably some Focals, just needed to figure out if needed slim or regular speaker depth. thanks for information!
 
@KJWEmira do you know where we can get full wiring schematic for the I4 audio system, specifically what's going into the DSP unit? Lotus service said UK told them the fake engine noise is being put out directly by the DSP, so something must be feeding it rpm signal. Just continuing on our quest to solve this audio issue...so I can turn my amp back on lol
 
@KJWEmira do you know where we can get full wiring schematic for the I4 audio system, specifically what's going into the DSP unit? Lotus service said UK told them the fake engine noise is being put out directly by the DSP, so something must be feeding it rpm signal. Just continuing on our quest to solve this audio issue...so I can turn my amp back on lol
@Kaz - I've reached out to a few people to request some further information on this subject. I'll revert back once I get a response.
What I've requested is from where this sound is generated and is it possible to interrupt a signal / wire to stop it, or is it a coding / programming resolution only.
 
New to the site, I'd love to order your front & rear speaker & amp mount. I'm here in the USA, how can I place an order with you? I sent you both an email and a Private message. The links to Ebay doesn't work, even when I type out the URL. Any search also does not find your listing.
Hi AGeekyGuy,

Sorry for the delay in replying. We are UK based, and the time difference is approx. 6-7hrs.
For some reason we struggle to send and receive emails from the USA & Canada. Sorry, but we have not received your email. We have currently paused the Ebay listing as they make it difficult to communicate.

Yes, the kits are available We have replied to you via private message.
 
I have purchased @KJWEmira speaker mounts and was great. I didn't buy his amp bracket as I made my own but it is also solid.

I've listed an Audison Amp and JBL sub for sale along with other items but if you are interested in upgrading the audio, watching this thread, live in the US, and want to get a good deal on these then let me know.
 
As promised, here are the final 3D printed versions of the front and rear speaker mounts, & Amp Mount, allowing you to upgrade your KEF audio to a far superior system. The front mounts allow you to transform from a 3" speaker to any 6.5" speaker, and the rear mounts allow you to install any far superior 5" speaker.

I’m able to produce both front and rear mounts on demand at a cost of £435 (Including postage if you’re within the UK). The mounts are 3D printed at 100% infill, not hollow or honeycomb.

The amp mount can also be produced upon request for £180, (formed from a single sheet of 5mm aluminium, plasma cut & folded into the perfect shape to mount in place of the cars original sub). All holes are pre-drilled and it’s made to take any Audison Forza amp. A 70mm Stainless-steel blanking plate (to cover the bottom free-to-air sub drain-hole).

Speaker wiring colour codes will also be included, saving you hours of time.

I’ve personally completed this upgrade to my own Emira and the difference is night and day – If you enjoy your music as much as the car, then this upgrade is definitely worth it!

I’m sure there will be many questions, and hopefully I’ll have all of the answers as the installation was completed by myself (plus taken 100’s of pictures along the way should these also be of interest).

I’ve read through the current 5 pages of information and questions. I purchased your entire package of 3D printed items. I have the papers you included the list the color wires to tap off of. I also just received all the following below and starting to prep before doing this massive install. It has been YEARS since I’ve ever done speaker/wiring install so please bear with me on this. Pictures help a lot.

Hertz Mille ML 280.3 - Tweeters
Hertz Mille ML 1650.3 - Front
Hertz Cento CX130 - Rear
Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2 - Sub
Audison Forza AF M8.14 bit – Amp
Soundskins Sound Deadening
Your 3D printed mounts and amp mount.

Questions:

1. From my understanding I need to tap off the wires just below the Tweeters location (no in line filter required?
2. The door speakers, you tap off the wires of the existing speakers in the door?
3. I saw you have three thick gauge wires running through the firewall, through the engine bay, and to the battery box. What gauge wires did you run for these? What is each for (guessing positive, negative, and control)? Where did you connect each of the three wires in the battery box?
4. I’m guessing for the above 3, you ran the larger wires to a distro block? What distro did you go with and where did you tuck it? What size did you come off the distro to the amp and the sub?
5. Do you have a google drive, drop box, or somewhere you would be willing to dump all your install photos to that I could download and go through vs the few I’ve seen posted? Or zip them all in a folder and email them?
 
Hi AGeekyGuy,

Great to hear from you!

Below are the answers to your questions:

1. No in line filter required. The wiring you'll tap into is dedicated solely for tweeters - Please use 14 AWG for tweeter wiring.
2. Yes. Use the existing wiring in the door, but replace it as much as possible with larger gauge speaker wiring (use 12AWG twisted speaker cable for front and rear main speakers from the Forza amp). Please do not attempt to run new speaker wire thru from inside the car out to the door, just use what is there & double up the existing wiring as detailed on the paperwork supplied.
3a. Use 4 AWG wire for both positive & negative for the Forza amp. I ran the 4 AWG earth cable from the battery to a chassis earth point on right hand side of the car, located just behind the seat, and just under the carpet. Neither seat nor carpet required removal.
3b. Use 8 AWG for both positive & negative for the Prima Sub. The earth was taken off the same chassis earth point as mentioned above.
4. There is no distribution box. Attached to the battery you'll see a small black box with a cover you can flip open, under which are fuses for starter motor, alternator, fuse box supply etc. This is where I attached both the positive for the Forza Amp and Prima sub.
5. I'll send you a private message.

Hope I've answered your questions? If not, then please just let me know.
 

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