exactly
Help with coilover install
- Thread starter SoLotus
- Start date
Cool. So you don't need to compress the spring when you're removing the top bolt?
Also, you don't mess with/separate the ball joint at all, and just remove the sway bar link?
What I do is i leave the bottom bolt in, remove the top bolt that goes through the top of the shock and the top of the mount. I put a jack under it to hold the lower control arm in place. The bottom mount and the upper spring mount are still in place compressing the whole assembly. After the top bolt is free I lower the jack and this unloads spring tension mostly. There's actually only a little bit of spring tension on the oem assembly. I am used to disassembling and reassembling them with just body weight.
Cheers. So you do it opposite of what some here do, which was remove the lower bolt first. After you've released the tension, how do you remove the strut? JUst disconnect the sway bar, but leave the ball joint alone, and then wiggle out the strut?
Very helpful as always man.
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I just posted the video. I figured I would throw it in here for you and for anyone else that searches this in the future. I hope it helps!
Caution on doing this...
I highly highly highly recommend breaking any of the bolts attached to the subframe free by hand and not with an impact. Especially that third V6 shock tower bolt, it is held in place by a steel bracket that is riveted in place with a rivet on only one side. If yours goes bad, the nut back there can break free or bend. You will be in a world of hurt if this happens as it's an engine out procedure to get it back.
The same applies to the front 4 bolts that tie the top hat into the front frame structure, the prior owner of my Ohlins used an impact on those to free them and he lost one backing plate/nut, a total nightmare to fix.
I highly highly highly recommend breaking any of the bolts attached to the subframe free by hand and not with an impact. Especially that third V6 shock tower bolt, it is held in place by a steel bracket that is riveted in place with a rivet on only one side. If yours goes bad, the nut back there can break free or bend. You will be in a world of hurt if this happens as it's an engine out procedure to get it back.
The same applies to the front 4 bolts that tie the top hat into the front frame structure, the prior owner of my Ohlins used an impact on those to free them and he lost one backing plate/nut, a total nightmare to fix.
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You got to be kidding me. What is up with this car and the horrendous nuts? Thank you for the word of caution!
If you haven’t, feel free to throw that comment on the video so others see it.
yes and also also also please use an allen key to keep the sway link while you unbolt the nut. its there for you....
Say whaaaaat? Is this on all sway links?
They usually either have the allen recess or there's a thin hex flange. You can use wrench or ratcheting wrench on the bolt or they make hollow ratchets that are perfect for that job. The hollow ratchets are also great for replacing struts.
I watched it. Thanks for making the video dude. Super helpful. Can't wait to get mine in and installed but taking Kitkat's recco of not using an impact. I never do though to break free bolts or nuts...only use the impact to quickly remove once bolts have been broken free. Will use this as well as Obsessed Garage's video to install mine. Yours was straight forward. Cheers!
Does anyone disagree with the way Savanna did it or have a quicker tip on removing the OEM struts? Putting the Nitrons in seem easy peasy.
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Anytime dude! Some recommend popping loose the top control arm. I suppose it allows the bottom to sag a bit further and provides more room. I have yet to do that and haven't needed to thus far.
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
Also, are you running a factory setup currently or are there lowering cups on the car?
yeah ball joint separator will help alot with that, i did it hard mode like you did, finagle it around and out.
For anyone doing any kind of work where you might think of using an impact gun, if you don't already have them, get yourself a couple of swivel-head breaker bars. I have one for 1/2" sockets and 3/8" sockets. You can get them from Harbor Freight. I use impact gun sockets though because of their strength, but I attach them to the breaker bar. You only need it to break the bolt or nut loose, then you can switch to a ratchet. This will save you from stripping out a ratchet, or causing damage with an impact gun.
Great vid as always Matt.
Some of your painful challenging points on stock coilover removal for the fronts brought back some mild PTSD for me when I swapped out to my Ohlins....lol.
There is a lot of validity in what you said... be patient, think it through and sometimes walk away for a bit.
Those offset rear mounts on the aftermarkets threw me for a loop for a bit of time trying to figure out left from right sides as well.
Yeah, I would second not using impact driver on initial loosening of bolts but instead using a breaker bar. those captive nuts and welded nuts can be subject to a painful recovery should they get buzzed off by the impact's force.
Great job as always! this will be helpful to those taking this project on.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Note taken on impacts. The other benefit to these videos is people can also tell me where I'm messing up haha
Currently its the factory sport setup. No lowering perches.
Without the ability to adjust the springs, if I remember correctly, you may still have tension on the rears once removed. I'm pretty sure I ratchet strapped mine the first go around. Someone here may correct me.
Does anyone know the part numbers for the top bolts that connect the OEM strut to the mount? Where I can order them from, besides going to the dealer to order?
I've ordered the Darkworks front mounts to save some additional weight and also so I don't have to disassemble the stock struts to reuse the top bolt. This way once the Nitrons come in, I can mount them straight to the DW mounts for an even quicker install.
I've ordered the Darkworks front mounts to save some additional weight and also so I don't have to disassemble the stock struts to reuse the top bolt. This way once the Nitrons come in, I can mount them straight to the DW mounts for an even quicker install.
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