Emira GRP Third Cat Delete Pipe and Milltek Active Valve Exhaust Control Install Video

[jp129]

An alternative is using exhaust sealeant. I'm using Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer with great results. I don't see any carbon leakage on the joint. Mine was a loose fit, but did not want to expand the pipe in the event I want to change to a GRP Ti exhaust and the tolerances are a certain way.

 

[Dragoon]

An alternative is using exhaust sealeant. I'm using Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer with great results. I don't see any carbon leakage on the joint. Mine was a loose fit, but did not want to expand the pipe in the event I want to change to a GRP Ti exhaust and the tolerances are a certain way.

Good to know that's an option! I expanded my decat pipe and then upgraded to the GRP Ti exhaust without any issues. The only issue with the factory muffler is that the clamp is welded on and is limited in its clamping diameter. The GRP Ti exhaust comes with a really nice clamp that isn't fixed to the pipe and has no issues with sealing the muffler to a wider range of diameters.

 

[jp129]

Good to know that's an option! I expanded my decat pipe and then upgraded to the GRP Ti exhaust without any issues. The only issue with the factory muffler is that the clamp is welded on and is limited in its clamping diameter. The GRP Ti exhaust comes with a really nice clamp that isn't fixed to the pipe and has no issues with sealing the muffler to a wider range of diameters.

Thank you for your feedback. That's great to know.

 

[RonV]

Correct! The stock clamp is welded and has a spacer between the bolt and the nut, limiting how much it can clamp. The best thing to do is to have a muffler shop expand the decat pipe to 3" and then use a hand expander to gently open up the inlet pipe on the muffler. That allows the newly expanded decat pipe to slide in and then be securely clamped.

I made several 1.5" x 2" shims out of HVAC duct material and slid them between the band of the clamp and the pipe to get around the problem. Gives the clamp bolt enough travel to snug things up nicely.

 

[sixtyy]

Has anyone done installation in a shop in Socal? I am in LA, and I am definitely not handy enough to pull this.

 

[netsinah]

Has anyone done installation in a shop in Socal? I am in LA, and I am definitely not handy enough to pull this.

This job is easily done by any muffler shop. They may want to cut out the OEM pipe to speed things up. I'd suggest telling them not to and that you want to keep the pipe, so you can sell the car with all its original parts.

 

[idleuser]

I tried installing the 3rd cat delete tonight but failed. The OEM Y pipe flange where the 3rd cat delete flange would not sit flush properly. Upon further inspection, the inside of the 3rd cat delete (flange side isn't perfectly round so it wasn't sitting flush no matter how much I tried shimmy it into place. I do not have a die grinder or a dremel to fix the problem. I messaged Greg to see if he can send another one out. Also, the pipe was noticeable smaller and fit really loose on the exhaust side. IMO, there should be more QA done before shipping these 3rd cat delete. This install caused me a lot of frustration and wasted time.

Below is a picture of the measurement I did before using the exhaust pipe expander.

 

[Mr. Sparkle]

I made several 1.5" x 2" shims out of HVAC duct material and slid them between the band of the clamp and the pipe to get around the problem. Gives the clamp bolt enough travel to snug things up nicely.
View attachment 63142

The material you used, was it from one of those flexible accordion-style connecting tubes or straight galvanized steel/aluminum pieces? I'm guessing it was the later.

 

[dbjames]

For those that have done this, what replacement bolts are needed if OEMs corroded and not being reused please - its says 3 x 16mm and 1 x 15mm in video... Thanks

 

[RonV]

The material you used, was it from one of those flexible accordion-style connecting tubes or straight galvanized steel/aluminum pieces? I'm guessing it was the later.

Just standard heating duct sheet metal - available at Home Depot, etc.

 

[@Life411]

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Here's my installation video for the GRP third cat delete pipe and a Milltek active valve exhaust controller. If you plan to install the cat delete pipe, I would suggest you watch this first. It will save you a LOT of time and you will be prepared if you have to make any adjustments for a proper fit.

If the muffler inlet pipe is larger than your cat delete pipe (like mine), you must expand the cat delete pipe to fit correctly. You can pre-order a tailpipe expander tool before installation or find one at your local auto parts store. Here's a link for your convenience: https://a.co/d/3dFKVyI

Thanks for creating this video! I'm installing the same tomorrow and some of our local Lotus & Friends group will be joining me in the garage for moral support. I'll watch the video a second time to make sure I have all the tools, etc. available and I'll probably be watching it a third time while I perform the installation. Any other tips or anything since creating the video? Thanks in advance, Pete

 

[Dragoon]

Thanks for creating this video! I'm installing the same tomorrow and some of our local Lotus & Friends group will be joining me in the garage for moral support. I'll watch the video a second time to make sure I have all the tools, etc. available and I'll probably be watching it a third time while I perform the installation. Any other tips or anything since creating the video? Thanks in advance, Pete

Sounds like a fun day in the garage! I would add some heat shielding to wrap around the Milltek wiring from the valve controller along the back of the bumper while you are in there. I haven't had any issues with the routing I showed in the video, but I have heard some people have had issues with melted wiring and controller boxes. I'm not sure how they routed their controllers, but knock on wood, I haven't had any problems with my installation.

 

[@Life411]

Sounds like a fun day in the garage! I would add some heat shielding to wrap around the Milltek wiring from the valve controller along the back of the bumper while you are in there. I haven't had any issues with the routing I showed in the video, but I have heard some people have had issues with melted wiring and controller boxes. I'm not sure how they routed their controllers, but knock on wood, I haven't had any problems with my installation.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try to pick up some heat shielding tape. I'm going to make a video of the install event for my YT channel, but your install video is so thorough I thought I'd just refer folks to yours if that's ok and mine will just focus on my event and any differences that I encounter (if any). I might also include a couple screenshots from yours too if that's Ok. Sound Ok?

 

[djprov431]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try to pick up some heat shielding tape. I'm going to make a video of the install event for my YT channel, but your install video is so thorough I thought I'd just refer folks to yours if that's ok and mine will just focus on my event and any differences that I encounter (if any). I might also include a couple screenshots from yours too if that's Ok. Sound Ok?

I've done mine many months ago (in fact I may swing by the garage tomorrow after I get back from Wilmington if you PM me the address - I have the email) -- I've had no issues with heat, or water intrusion with mine. Proper routing and securing the cable is all that's needed. Titanium exhaust does put out more heat from what I've read, I have OEM. 3rd cat delete for me was easy, the bolts and cat came right out -- for sure have a new exhaust gasket in hand. I didn't bother with any pipe widening (using GRP pipe) -- I simply put some exhaust sealant paste on it and clamped her down -- been perfect. Don't overthink this -- it's easy. The more complicated part is taking the damn diffuser off, running into clips that no longer want to accept the screw, and the infamous tiny spring clips in the two corners -- which I removed and sealed the two corner peices with black RTV. I used these replacement clips for 2 places that refused to cooperate upon reinstallation of the diffuser: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYHL5892?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

 

[Dragoon]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try to pick up some heat shielding tape. I'm going to make a video of the install event for my YT channel, but your install video is so thorough I thought I'd just refer folks to yours if that's ok and mine will just focus on my event and any differences that I encounter (if any). I might also include a couple screenshots from yours too if that's Ok. Sound Ok?

Sounds good! The more content and information for the Emira community, the better!

 

[@Life411]

Hey All, installing today. I remember reading a comment somewhere that someone put their valve controller inside a ziploc bag or something for extra protection from the elements. Good idea? Bad idea? TIA, Pete

 

[Blue Dude]

Hey All, installing today. I remember reading a comment somewhere that someone put their valve controller inside a ziploc bag or something for extra protection from the elements. Good idea? Bad idea? TIA, Pete

Bag will probably melt.

This information may be useful if you haven’t seen it already:

Milltek Valve Controller Weather Resistant Enclosure

Hello fellow enthusiasts! I'd like to show you a solution I've created to help keep the Milltek valve controller unit and connector out of the elements. When I bought my valve controller and saw it was recommended to install the unit using a plastic bag to keep it dry, I wanted a more elegant...

www.emiraforum.com

 

[@Life411]

Bag will probably melt.

This information may be useful if you haven’t seen it already:

Milltek Valve Controller Weather Resistant Enclosure

Hello fellow enthusiasts! I'd like to show you a solution I've created to help keep the Milltek valve controller unit and connector out of the elements. When I bought my valve controller and saw it was recommended to install the unit using a plastic bag to keep it dry, I wanted a more elegant...

www.emiraforum.com

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the install is happening in a few hours, so no time for this box. I have an idea that's maybe not 100%, but should shield it somewhat from heat, weather, etc. Will post after.

 

[crestima]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try to pick up some heat shielding tape. I'm going to make a video of the install event for my YT channel, but your install video is so thorough I thought I'd just refer folks to yours if that's ok and mine will just focus on my event and any differences that I encounter (if any). I might also include a couple screenshots from yours too if that's Ok. Sound Ok?

Ccx

Hey All, installing today. I remember reading a comment somewhere that someone put their valve controller inside a ziploc bag or something for extra protection from the elements. Good idea? Bad idea? TIA, Pete

I went for the enclosure that you'll find in the thread entitled "Milltek Valve Controller Weather Resistant Enclosure" to protect from water ingress and I used heat insulating auto loom to further protect the wires. I suspect that a Ziplock bag will eventually melt under the high temperature. If you don't go for the above mentioned enclosure, perhaps wrapping the module in heat resistant aluminum tape and using an insulating loom for the wiring imo is an alternative workable solution. Hope this helps.

 

[@Life411]

Quick update: Installation was a success, car sounds great. I'll share a few things once I've got the garage put back in order and have some time. Big thanks to forum member @djprov431 who stopped by and was a massive help with the install and to the other members who stopped by to help.