Audio thread- to KEF or not to KEF?

denk0815

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This is very confusing. I'm actually not sure how this "Cambridge Car Audio" company is even allowed to call themselves that, considering there is a very long-established audio manufacturer in the UK called Cambridge Audio.
Of course they are not.
As promised, here are the final 3D printed versions of the front and rear speaker mounts, & Amp Mount, allowing you to upgrade your KEF audio to a far superior system. The front mounts allow you to transform from a 3" speaker to any 6.5" speaker, and the rear mounts allow you to install any far superior 5" speaker.

I’m able to produce both front and rear mounts on demand at a cost of £435 (Including postage if you’re within the UK). The mounts are 3D printed at 100% infill, not hollow or honeycomb.

The amp mount can also be produced upon request for £180, (formed from a single sheet of 5mm aluminium, plasma cut & folded into the perfect shape to mount in place of the cars original sub). All holes are pre-drilled and it’s made to take any Audison Forza amp. A 70mm Stainless-steel blanking plate (to cover the bottom free-to-air sub drain-hole).

Speaker wiring colour codes will also be included, saving you hours of time.

I’ve personally completed this upgrade to my own Emira and the difference is night and day – If you enjoy your music as much as the car, then this upgrade is definitely worth it!

I’m sure there will be many questions, and hopefully I’ll have all of the answers as the installation was completed by myself (plus taken 100’s of pictures along the way should these also be of interest).
Hey,
Thanks a lot! It's really impressive that you did this on your own.
I'm also very interested in implementing this, but unfortunately I'm blessed with two left hands and little patience.

Did you need any special tools (apart from the 3d printer)?
Did you insulate any other areas apart from the doors?


Many thanks in advance!
 

KJWEmira

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Hi,
No special tools required, normal screwdrivers, ratchets & sockets, torx sockets, Dremal Multitool.
The only tool that most won't have in their tool kit is a crimping tool for the amp power cables, so I could connect direct to the battery.
I did purchase a nice set of plastic trim removal tools, so as not to damage anything - I've included the kit in the pictures - £20 from Ebay.
I used Skinz for sound deadening in the doors and the rear as shown in the photos attached. Then self adhesive acoustic foam over the top (only where the speakers will sound against).
 

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denk0815

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Hi,
No special tools required, normal screwdrivers, ratchets & sockets, torx sockets, Dremal Multitool.
The only tool that most won't have in their tool kit is a crimping tool for the amp power cables, so I could connect direct to the battery.
I did purchase a nice set of plastic trim removal tools, so as not to damage anything - I've included the kit in the pictures - £20 from Ebay.
I used Skinz for sound deadening in the doors and the rear as shown in the photos attached. Then self adhesive acoustic foam over the top (only where the speakers will sound against).
Really impressive!
Thank you very much, I think I will do the same or at least try it as soon as I finally have my Emira.

I'll write you a DM!
 

Raskits

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Hi,
No special tools required, normal screwdrivers, ratchets & sockets, torx sockets, Dremal Multitool.
The only tool that most won't have in their tool kit is a crimping tool for the amp power cables, so I could connect direct to the battery.
I did purchase a nice set of plastic trim removal tools, so as not to damage anything - I've included the kit in the pictures - £20 from Ebay.
I used Skinz for sound deadening in the doors and the rear as shown in the photos attached. Then self adhesive acoustic foam over the top (only where the speakers will sound against).
Curious since you have door panel removed, can you tell if there are any access holes/bolts that can adjust the window tracks? Asking on behalf of some people here who are having wind noise issues on their windows. I know the window alignment can be a tad off causing some wind to leak in which is common on cars with frameless windows
 

KJWEmira

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Curious since you have door panel removed, can you tell if there are any access holes/bolts that can adjust the window tracks? Asking on behalf of some people here who are having wind noise issues on their windows. I know the window alignment can be a tad off causing some wind to leak in which is common on cars with frameless windows
Hi Raskits,

Yes, there are rubber bungs located on the underside of the doors, remove these to expose bolts which are securing the bottom of the window guide rail to the door. Should these bolts not provide the desired adjustment, then you'll need to remove the main door card (only x2 10mm bolts), then remove the window motor and unclip wiring harness etc, then finally unbolt the black plastic inner door card for ultimate access. It's also possible to adjust the doors on the catches mounted to the body of the car, I don't believe there is any adjustment for this on the door itself.

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of what I've described above, but I have seen the adjustment bolts and its straight forward, especially if & once the inner door card is removed.

I've adjusted my windows & doors the best I can. I don't really get wind noise, however I do get a few drops of water onto the leather of the door card during washing.
I've had the complete driver's window rubber replaced under warranty because when I received the car this rubber was tucked up inside due to incorrect window adjustment - see attached pic.

I hope this helps?


Window Rubber.jpeg
 

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