Posts of the Week

Alright so I’ve test fit the installation and figuring out wiring routing, bracket mounting etc. I’ll have an installation tutorial up in the next two days because now I need to dismount everything to take video/photos etc.

As for the drive, well I’ve only driven in Map 1 for 91 Octane for 25 minutes. It’s worth it — the power and torque are instantly there on some back to back 2nd through 3rd gear pulls. Where the stock torque makes it feel like you’re not really pulling anymore, even the map 1 keeps you pushed against your seat. Map 2 must be wild, look forward to more testing. Power and torque delivery is nice and smooth and I experienced no hiccups anywhere.

More later as things progress.

Picked up mine last Tuesday. Drove back home 4 hours in rain storm, car exceeded all my expectations and more. At PPF shop now getting full PPF and getting calipers painted to body color..

Hey Gang.... Just installed my JB4 Tune last night and went for a brief drive. For reference, I have the 3rd cat delete, exhaust valve in full-open and the high flow air filter. Here are my "personal" observations. The install was easy, did it myself in about 30 minutes. I am running 93 octane and Map2. Up to about 3k RPM, I don't notice a huge difference, between 3-4k RPM there is a noticeable increase in power, after 4k is where it really starts to change. From 4k up it is I would say it feels "in the seat" like there's 20% more power, but it feels more "visceral" (best way I can explain it). It reminds me of a less violent version of my 2 stroke dirt bike hitting power-band when I was a kid. I wasn't sure it was worth the $ or not, until I switched back to Map0 (stock) and realized, "Oh yeah, there's definitely a difference". So, yes, I recommend. Hope this helps.

Six Speed Stephen said:

You'd be impressed with a guy named Shakespeare and what people can do with words!

Click to expand...

Verily, this chariot doth move with most noble grace—steady as the stars in heaven, obedient to the master’s will. This past sennight, I did traverse the winding paths of yon mighty canyon, where the steed’s strength was ample, though its excess unneeded. Yet lo! That deep-throated power at the apex—'twas a boon most welcome, a whisper of might beneath mine hand. Nay, it is no tempestuous beast, no charger driven by furious winds; it hath not the reckless spirit of a turbo-born steed, whose breath is the wild gusts of high boost. Rather, it doth wield its force with measured dignity, a knight upon the road, steadfast and true.

Time for another Emira V6 DIY, this time it's for the Burger Motorsports JB4!

Installation Overview


Instructions
This installation assumes you are using a Darkworks Design JB4 Stealth Bracket. If you aren't, please skip steps 3-7 and figure out a way to zip tie your JB4.

1. Optional: Install Mobile Wireless Smart Phone Kit to your JB4 if you purchased it.

• 4 x H2.5 on the case
• Discard the extra small rubber plug
• 2 x phillips head screws that come with JB4 Mobile Kit

2. Remove front top engine cover
3. Remove rear top engine cover
4. Remove left side (LHD) engine side trim

• 4 x H4 button top screws
• Extreme Caution: Do not drop

5. Remove OEM air vent bolts

• 2 x 7mm 6 pt drive bolts
• Extreme Caution: Do not drop

6. Attach JB4 Bracket to the vent bracket

• 2 x 8mm 6 pt drive bolts that come with JB4 Stealth Bracket
• Extreme Caution: Do not drop
• This is probably the hardest part of this whole procedure

7. Attach JB4 to JB4 Bracket

• 2 x H3 button top screws that come with JB4 Stealth Bracket
• Extreme Caution: Do not drop

8. Optional: Wedge your Mobile Wireless extension between the firewall and the felt cover
9. Route your cables as per the video or however you see fit

• Don't touch the heatshield or the valve cover those get too hot with your wiring harness

10. Unclip MAF and TMAF sensors
11. Plug in the JB4 Connectors into your MAF and TMAF sensors
12. Tie down and affix your wiring harness

• I used 3 sticky 3/4" zip tie bases and 3 zip ties to affix the wiring harness to the outside of the engine bay box, the engine cover hides all the wiring once in place

13. Reinstall left side (LHD) engine side trim
14. Reinstall rear top engine cover
15. Reinstall front top engine cover

Just some photos of new Theory 1 in Lake Como (Italy)

V6 install video up at https://www.emiraforum.com/threads/diy-v6-burger-motorsports-jb4-installation.6361/

If you want an I4 install video feel free to buy me an I4 first.

Hi all,

The following is a DIY with parts and instructions for a single catch can for the V6 Emira using Radium parts.
A previous thread by @silent cilantro outlined a dual catch can installation that was a little overkill because the breather didn't need its own catch can.
This is a compilation of the information, parts, links, and instructions needed to perform this. Thanks you @silent cilantro and @GRP!

Installation Diagram

Parts Needed
1 x Radium Catch Can w/ bracket.
2 ft x 3/8" PCV/Fuel Hose
1 x Radium 10AN ORB Swivel Banjo to 3/8" SAE Male
1 x Radium 10AN ORB to 5/16" SAE Male
1 x Radium Spring Clamp 3/8" Hose
1 x Radium Spring Clamp 5/16" Hose
3x M6 x 15mm button head socket cap screws
3x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

I told Greg about these and he's put together a package with all of this for us as a single purchase.
Greg if I'm off about any of the parts you've included in your kit let me know so I can adjust this post.


Tools Needed

• 8mm, 10mm & Ratcheting Socket Wrench
• Adjustable Wrench for 10AN ORB Fittings
• Various hex bits & driver
• Drill with 1/4" drill bit
• Pliers for spring clamps

Instructions

1. Remove 12V Battery Cover
2. Remove 12V Battery Negative and Positive Terminal Connectors with 10mm socket.
3. Unbolt and remove 8mm battery tie down.
4. Remove the 12V Battery
5. Remove Upper and lower engine cover plastics.
6. Use the radium bracket as a template to mark drill holes to the battery box. Try to position this bracket further away from the heat shield and as high up as you can.
   1. Note, your installation will be lower than mine as I have made an upwards extension to raise mine, this isn't necessary.
7. Drill holes with 1/4" drill bit. Do not do this with the battery in place.
8. Attach bracket to the battery box using the M6 hardware, the Nyloc nuts can go in the inside of the battery box.
9. Attach radium canister to the bracket with the 4 screws and remember to use loctite blue.
10. Attach the Radium 10AN ORB swivel to 3/8" SAE to the top of the canister making sure to lightly oil the o-ring.
11. Attach the Radium 10AN straight to 5/16" SAE to the front of the canister making sure to lightly oil the o-ring.
12. Detach the OEM 5/16" hose from the supercharger inlet retaining the hose spring clamp for later use.
    1. See attached photo with arrow pointing to which hose this is on the supercharger inlet in the additional photos section.
13. Pull the OEM 5/16" hose out in front of the supercharger towards the trunk, it is tucked away under the supercharger.
14. Eyeball the OEM 5/16" hose length to the front canister 5/16" SAE barb and trim the hose. Be sure to leave a little bit of slack for engine movement under load and don't kink any hoses.
15. Attach and trim a new 3/8" hose from the supercharger inlet to the top swivel 3/8" barb. Be sure to leave a little bit of slack for engine movement under load and don't kink any hoses.
16. Attach the hoses and with their respective spring clamps.
17. Replace the 12V battery.
18. You're all done! Remember to check the level of the canister with the dipstick every few thousand miles. You will likely fill the 7oz canister every 5,000 miles! YMMV.

Additional Photos

Ok, 2nd update. Please note this is all feedback from someone who's not an expert on HP, Torque, etc. and who didn't have a stopwatch with me in the car (all seat of the pants feedback). I was able to get the car out onto a stretch of open freeway today and test it at higher speeds. I did several 50-120mph runs switching between Map0 and Map2. It's definitely faster! I mentioned in my prior post that it felt more visceral, it's even more so at higher speed. The exhaust and intake are louder than before. Dare I say it makes the entire experience more hooligan? I feel like it requires another level of attention vs before when driving, which is a great thing...... I f***ing love this car!