Power reduced to 4k at track need help!!!

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First 8 laps no problem, then reduced engine speed warning came up and had to push okay. Then Rev limiter went down to 4k and can’t go above 4,000 RPM
Checked OBD2 and got 3 codes.
2 codes for Oxygen sensors
Exhaust pressure control valve low.
I have GRP full titanium exhaust, 3rd cat delete and milltek valve controller which may not be working properly because when I go from 1 to 2 on fob I don’t hear a difference in exhaust sound. It is 78 degrees outside and engine temperature never got above 200.
 

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Like I said before, most Ti exhausts will likely have heat problems due to bad design of the oem exhaust compartment, especially on track day. The new Ti exhaust we have are all wrapped with multi-layers heat protection. Its been track tested for more than 30 hot laps.
 
Like I said before, most Ti exhausts will likely have heat problems due to bad design of the oem exhaust compartment, especially on track day. The new Ti exhaust we have are all wrapped with multi-layers heat protection. It’s been track tested for more than 30 hot laps.
Would the non titanium exhaust have the same issues?
What is the material you wrapped it with and let me know where do I get it?
We tried clearing the codes, but it didn’t go back to normal. Why not and what do you suggest?
 
Ahh did letting it rest and turning it off and back on not work? If not I’d disconnect the battery for 10-15
Actually we are disconnecting battery now.
The shutting of car of and opening and closing door worked for a limp mode at an auto cross event, but not today.
The codes are not clearing
 
Would the non titanium exhaust have the same issues?
What is the material you wrapped it with and let me know where do I get it?
We tried clearing the codes, but it didn’t go back to normal. Why not and what do you suggest?
We haven't seen SS exhaust with any heat problem but we wrapped them as well just in case. I dunno what it is called but it is the same material you wrap the headers and downpipe with, and they are wrapped from the exhaust manufacturers. Have you checked if the value controllers are melted? This happens the most from Ti exhausts we have seen in the Chinese market. The exhaust we use not only are wrapped with heat protection but the location of the value controllers have been relocated as well.
 
Oh one more thing on the valve controller, can you pull the diffuser and see if it melted? If it’s mounted directly behind the license plate it’s definitely going to melt. Ask me how I know! Had to mount it near the fender
 
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The battery was disconnected for 15 minutes and the engine light never went off.
We tried clearing the codes again and they did not clear.
When we push the milltek controller fob to open and close valves the sound doesn’t change so I wonder is that’s the issue
 
Oh one more thing on the valve controller, can you pull the diffuser and see if it melted? If it’s mounted directly behind the license plate it’s definitely going to melt. Ask me how I know! Had to mount it near the fender
The valve controller is mounted up to the left (drivers side) of the diffuser.
Did you get the same codes when it melted?
Could it melt up where it is now?
 
The valve controller is mounted up to the left (drivers side) of the diffuser.
Did you get the same codes when it melted?
Could it melt up where it is now?
I highly doubt it can melt from up there. Maybe try to disconnect the controller entirely and see if that’s the issue? If the problem persists it’s prob the exhaust setup
 
Log the O2 sensor voltages as you drive around. Heat could have damaged it.
Will do. I think you posted for me to get the wireless OBD2 and suction cup for videos.
I don’t think it’s melted because rear diffuser was taken of to replace with carbon fiber one and the valve controller was placed back in the same place away from exhaust
 
I highly doubt it can melt from up there. Maybe try to disconnect the controller entirely and see if that’s the issue? If the problem persists it’s prob the exhaust setup
Good idea, where is the easiest place to disconnect it without removing the diffuser?
Everyone going forward should by the new one that goes inside the car.
 
Good idea, where is the easiest place to disconnect it without removing the diffuser?
Everyone going forward should by the new one that goes inside the car.
I think you need to remove the diffuser to access the controller to unplug it and plug the OEM plug back in
 
First 8 laps no problem, then reduced engine speed warning came up and had to push okay. Then Rev limiter went down to 4k and can’t go above 4,000 RPM
Checked OBD2 and got 3 codes.
2 codes for Oxygen sensors
Exhaust pressure control valve low.
I have GRP full titanium exhaust, 3rd cat delete and milltek valve controller which may not be working properly because when I go from 1 to 2 on fob I don’t hear a difference in exhaust sound. It is 78 degrees outside and engine temperature never got above 200.
Hey man, had the same issue at Laguna Seca.

If you are running a valve controller its likely that it got fried. unplug it and plug oem back in and clear the codes. if its not clearing you need to replace the fuse for the valve controller which is likely blown if you cant change the valve position with the flappy switch on the center console.

hope you can get back out there!
 
Hey man, had the same issue at Laguna Seca.

If you are running a valve controller its likely that it got fried. unplug it and plug oem back in and clear the codes. if its not clearing you need to replace the fuse for the valve controller which is likely blown if you cant change the valve position with the flappy switch on the center console.

hope you can get back out there!
I didn’t install it myself. Where is the fuse? Any pictures of which one?
 
Couldn’t connect the VEEPAK OND2 to my Bluetooth to collect data wirelessly.
Tried shutting down phone also. Any one else have an issue? 2 bars on my phone signal
 
 

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