OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #21
Since that software update have you taken it to the track again and is everything okay now?
The automatic transmission SUCKS for tracking and hard spirited driving!
- Thread starter Tracked Emira
- Start date
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #22
Did you track it since then and has the problem been solved?
Did they tell you what that software update improved?
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #23
This is a software update is i4, but is there one for the V6 auto?
Has anyone had a software update on V6 auto that has solved gearbox overheating or malfunction issues?
Just FYI I had all the software update (Auto V6) done at my annual service in mid-April 2026 and still got the problem.
Other symptoms i have: When the car was hot, I had shifting problem on manual and automatic mode. BUT when the car cooled down (even now 1+month after) the shifting problem are only on "automatic" mode; Manual mode is fine.
Even on cold a cold transmission, the car can't shift correctly by itself, but when I "force" the shift with manual mode I see no problem.
After I erased the code i drove 100+km on manual mode without issues, the moment I put it in automatic, I got a CEL and car was almost stalling under full stops.
So I encourage you to test Manual vs Automatic mode on your car, at least with a cold transmission (when not tracking) and see if you see a difference.
For me this cue tells me that some glitch might be present in the software
(I personally drive my car 99% of the time in manual mode)
Are you tracking in manual mode or automatic? Have you see a difference in the way it shift?
In the end the dealer still want to replace my transmission, so I'll let them do it and hope the problem disappear...
Car still has 1 year under warranty, so at least I have 1 more year to test it before it forces me to sell my house to keep with the maintenance.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #25
I found out today that all the new software updates were done when they installed my new transmission.
I don’t believe that shifting in auto vs manual mode will help with overheating.
I have been shifting in auto mode only with paddle shifters.
Can any let me know what the key advantages are in shifting in manual mode?
My understanding is in manual mode you'll be able to hold the gear (no gear changes unless you paddle shift), the shifting in auto mode is just a temporary overriding, it falls back to full auto if no paddle shifting for a period of time (there is a tiny bar under the letter "M" decreases like a countdown)
Good thread. I have consistently tracked mine for the last 3 years through each Dubai summer without a problem. Saturday was a temperature of 113F/45c and I had the gearbox malfunction only while running the race gas tune on the JB4. Once I ran out of race fuel I changed the tune down to standard with standard fuel and did another 15 laps at 1m:40s laps with only 1 partial cool down lap with no problem and no gearbox fault. For context, over the past few years I have regularly stayed on track until I have emptied the tank without ever experiencing the malfunction and with very minimal if any cool down laps.
Solution we are looking at is to drain it and put fresh fluid in it because we think it needs it and plumb in a universal trans cooler to MR GRPs theory. If he is contemplating a kit would potentially do that instead to support the easily best sponsor of the forum but I imagine the R&D wont be worth the sale with how few of us exist in the IPS/tracking landscape.
Solution we are looking at is to drain it and put fresh fluid in it because we think it needs it and plumb in a universal trans cooler to MR GRPs theory. If he is contemplating a kit would potentially do that instead to support the easily best sponsor of the forum but I imagine the R&D wont be worth the sale with how few of us exist in the IPS/tracking landscape.
I'm inclined to think there's the case of actual mechanical overheat with the gearbox vs sensor faults that the tells ECU everything is malfunctioning.
I've never gotten limp mode or gearbox malfunction during an active track driving session. In fact I've kept the car on for an entire track day until I ran out of fuel without so much as an error. But the moment I turn the car off and on, dash lights up no matter how long I've let it idle.
For most my cases, recovery usually starts with limp mode going away first, gearbox malfunction stays but seems to operate fine.
After a few drive cycles with gearbox malfunction on (able to cycle all gears in auto and manual mode) it clears itself.
Just had it happen again on a normal windy road drive and it's going back to the dealer again.
This is after a recent transmission service and valve actuator replacement by the dealer.
I've never gotten limp mode or gearbox malfunction during an active track driving session. In fact I've kept the car on for an entire track day until I ran out of fuel without so much as an error. But the moment I turn the car off and on, dash lights up no matter how long I've let it idle.
For most my cases, recovery usually starts with limp mode going away first, gearbox malfunction stays but seems to operate fine.
After a few drive cycles with gearbox malfunction on (able to cycle all gears in auto and manual mode) it clears itself.
Just had it happen again on a normal windy road drive and it's going back to the dealer again.
This is after a recent transmission service and valve actuator replacement by the dealer.
Had a chat with the mechanics here and they said the Evora and Exige IPS cars all had service intervals at 10k to flush fluid and 20k to change the filter and flush fluid. The Emira they were told was not necessary that frequently so apparently was not occurring until 40k. This coupled with very humid and hot days and some cars doing significant amount of track times may all be contributing. (that and really buying an IPS car for track usage was our own silly faults)
@greezex I am inclined to agree that yours sounds like its more a potential solenoid issue if it is happening sporadically but the fact it is still occurring after service is strange.
@greezex I am inclined to agree that yours sounds like its more a potential solenoid issue if it is happening sporadically but the fact it is still occurring after service is strange.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #30
Is yours a stick?
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #31
PatrickJS has noticed a difference in transmission not over heating when removing the triangular metal plate cover under the transmission. He will try to post something this week. I will be removing it and installing JUBUs rear plate ventilation kit.
Then I’m having a custom installed dedicated transmission cooler.
Then I’m having a custom installed dedicated transmission cooler.
Mine is Automatic. It is getting trans fluid and filter changed today and will be back on track next Saturday to see.
Did not know there was a triangular metal plate cover under the transmission, I will ask the guys to see their thoughts on removing or what it is supposed to do.
Agree though I think dedicated trans cooler is where this all ends up.
Did not know there was a triangular metal plate cover under the transmission, I will ask the guys to see their thoughts on removing or what it is supposed to do.
Agree though I think dedicated trans cooler is where this all ends up.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #33
Also remember when you add race gas and a higher tune that more heat is created making the transmission. Let us know how many hours it takes to change the transmission fluid. Did they remove the metal triangle?
Any after photos?
I’ll get it done this weekend. I dont remove the triangle part I just open the gap so it acts like a vent. And the vents are noticeably under the oil/transmission. When I had them closed vs open I noticed the transmission didn’t overheat as often when it was opened
Well trans fluid and filter changed but not on track again until next weekend to see if it will still be doing it. Was about 1-2 hours of work on their books.
Guys were unclear on what triangle part could be removed and sent me a vague photo which I also did not know exactly what you have removed @PatrickJS so have left to just try one thing at a time and will wait for a photo post from you.
@Tracked Emira totally agree it is the higher tune and race fuel that is creating the issues as it does not do it at all when it is on standard tune and normal fuel.
Guys were unclear on what triangle part could be removed and sent me a vague photo which I also did not know exactly what you have removed @PatrickJS so have left to just try one thing at a time and will wait for a photo post from you.
@Tracked Emira totally agree it is the higher tune and race fuel that is creating the issues as it does not do it at all when it is on standard tune and normal fuel.
Attachments
What would you consider race fuel?
I have the same transmission problem and I use only "US/CA 94 octane rating (AKI)" which is roughly equivalent to a 98 to 99 RON rating in EU/UAE.
I consider race fuel to be anything labelled a race fuel above 100 octane. (but many people probably have their own theory) I use Panta Max 102.
But to be clear, I do not believe the fuel really has anything to do with the transmission issue, it is just I am using this fuel for the tune on the JB4 to try and cover a potential detonation issue.
I think the hot tune in the JB4 coupled with very hot days on track is just making everything warmer than it wants to be. (I only mentioned the fuel as on the JB4 tune options they have +5PSI tune at the max settings meant for higher octane fuel and using that is I believe compounding things)
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