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SaudiStig

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Hi !

This is just a space to share my journey with My Lotus Emira, hoping it will add some insights to this great forum.

A quick background on me, I have been with sport cars for about 10 years now. I have a thing for tracks and fun cars, and I causally do around 15 track activities per year, give or take, some of them as Time Attack competition.
I was lucky to own two great cars previously, the dodge viper and an Alfa Romeo 4C.
Moving to the Lotus Emira was just natural as it has everything I wanted in a car with a considerable price tag.

I have thought about what Lotus offers in the Emira, but I knew I will be modifying it, so the manual option was the way to go (JB4 was not released back then) since JUBU have great options that only works with manual.
So, I went to the dealer here in my country and they had only two units in manual with either black or white color, and the white color was on sport configuration, so I went with white color, it is a beautiful choice but not my favorite but that can be fixed along the way if I ever decided to change the body color.

I like to read, so I had spent a lot of time reading here and hearing the feedback on many things from this amazing forum members who have taken the long way to find things and share information. Thanks everyone.
Once I receive the car it was time to do the break in thingy.

The first 1000 mile was not that smooth as I have encountered immediately a check engine that was caused by the exhaust valve (p1018).
The dealer suggested to bring it in, and thankfully they had a new exhaust assembly ready which they installed and did an oil/filter as well, problem solved.

Lotus1.webp

l2.webp


With that issue solved and the break in is complete, I had a track event coming soon, so I went to test the car in its stock form to see the performance as is.
 
Last edited:
First Track feedback:

I was surprised how the car handled really well out of the factory, mind you it was the first time I even switched it to Track Mode.
The sound of the exhaust is really good to the point where you wish you can keep it that way forever.

Steering was responsive, as I started to push the car further and further, it was capable to rotate just fine.
The sound of the supercharger was noticeable, not loud just enough to enjoy it.

Shifting was the worst part of this experience.
The travel distance between gears was clearly long, and for some reason I have a mis shift going from 2-3 while accelerating on the straight line. It didn't always mis shift, but it was like hit and miss.

The brakes performed good for two laps, with the hot climate here it was obvious to have some brake fade, which I anticipated but didn't have the time to change it prior.

Power delivery was good, not great. Again, something I saw other members mentioned.

Tires were also good, not great. I had the Michelin Cup2 dated 2023 from factory which were good to use.

I have clocked 1:36 in my local racetrack (the shorter track layout) which was a very good start.
To compare, the BMW M2 was also 1:36 and the Supra was around 1:33 along with a Porsche Carrera who had also 1:33.


l3.webp


With that feedback, I knew what is needed to be done, so I have ordered the following:

First Mod list:

- Eventuri intake
- Motul racing brake oil (700)
- Short shifter
- New set of tires Michelin Cup2R for their lighter weight and extra grip performance

Parts were ordered through @GRP who were amazing to deal with and had all parts delivered on time.
The installation was rather simple, and all went good in the car, and I have prepared for a second round on the track!
 
Second Track Feedback with Mods:

Shifting from 1-2 in this car was not the best feeling in a transmission, I felt like that I don't know how to drive a manual. All other gears were smoother.
i was surprised that the short shifter fixed that! I had the short shifter installed with the shortest distance possible, and it is really short now.
If you haven't installed one yet, get one. You just can't imagine going back to the long shifting now. But I would recommend not to have the shortest distance unless you are tracking the car, as it is really short now.

The Eventuri intake was also a good addition to the Emira experience. the supercharger sound inside the car has increased a little, but you can hear it now standing outside the car very clearly, which I like. I didn't feel the power increase and this might be because I didn't have the time to drive it before the track event, but I did do like 4 laps there on track with it, with little to no power feeling. This is just a plain unsupported fact based on my experience although I'm sure the performance is there; this was tested on a dyno and have confirmed that.

I was happy the brakes were performing great lap after lap, and the tires were extra grippy which helped to improve the lap time from 1:36 to 1:33. this improvement might be the combination of tires + the intake + me driving a bit better now :LOL:
Still I had the same issue with shifting from 2-3 again. One lap it will shift just smooth on all gears, then the next lap it will not, as if the gate is not allowing the gear to go in. I'm still not sure why.

All in all, it was a better experience and a whole lot of enjoyment with the Emira.

l4.webp
 
The combo of white with yellow calipers looks pretty good. Keep in mind with the Eventuri, I had driven the car with it installed for about 100 miles before going to the dyno shop, so give the ECU some time to adjust to it. Your car looks good out there on the track!
 
There's not a gate preventing 3rd from going in. When the synchro matches the revs, it'll go in.

Usually when I have issues getting into 3rd when driving all out, it is because I was lazy and didn't push the clutch enough and thus the engine is fighting the synchro. Now I always make sure to hit the floorboard with it and no more issues.
 
Great write-ups (thanks!). Nice to get the comparison between the Emira and your M2/Supra/Carrera.

I'm assuming the track car #26 on its side, is a stick-on. I didn't go that fancy: my first time out I used painter's tape, to create my numbers...yours certainly look far more professional/appealing. I didn't think I could use magnetic numbering, for the Emira, which is why I mention yours likely being "stick-on". LMK what it is and LMK as well, if you get more than one use out of it and if it tends to fray on the front edges, due to wind, or if you reinforce the front edge somehow to prevent that. Any advice on track numbering would be appreciated.
 
Love the write up; gives me confidence going to the track with stock setup for someone new to HPDE.
In addition to the racing brake fluid, did you change the brake pads or still running OEM?
 
Great write-ups (thanks!). Nice to get the comparison between the Emira and your M2/Supra/Carrera.

I'm assuming the track car #26 on its side, is a stick-on. I didn't go that fancy: my first time out I used painter's tape, to create my numbers...yours certainly look far more professional/appealing. I didn't think I could use magnetic numbering, for the Emira, which is why I mention yours likely being "stick-on". LMK what it is and LMK as well, if you get more than one use out of it and if it tends to fray on the front edges, due to wind, or if you reinforce the front edge somehow to prevent that. Any advice on track numbering would be appreciated.
I bought the reusable stickers from clubregistration (you're right, magnetic won't work), and they worked well and removed easily enough. I don't think they'll be an issue using them a few more times.
 
There's not a gate preventing 3rd from going in. When the synchro matches the revs, it'll go in.

Usually when I have issues getting into 3rd when driving all out, it is because I was lazy and didn't push the clutch enough and thus the engine is fighting the synchro. Now I always make sure to hit the floorboard with it and no more issues.

Thanks for the feedback with your own experience.
I do believe I gave it a good clutch kick all the way, but I will keep this in mind the next time I'm in the track as maybe trying to do it fast, I missed that.
 
Great write-ups (thanks!). Nice to get the comparison between the Emira and your M2/Supra/Carrera.

I'm assuming the track car #26 on its side, is a stick-on. I didn't go that fancy: my first time out I used painter's tape, to create my numbers...yours certainly look far more professional/appealing. I didn't think I could use magnetic numbering, for the Emira, which is why I mention yours likely being "stick-on". LMK what it is and LMK as well, if you get more than one use out of it and if it tends to fray on the front edges, due to wind, or if you reinforce the front edge somehow to prevent that. Any advice on track numbering would be appreciated.
Thanks, and those were not my cars (M2/Supra/Carrera) just some other drivers with us on the same event I mentioned as a reference. Maybe I wasn't clear on that one.

The stickers belong to the event organizers; we had two on each side and two orange stickers front and back for the car number.
These are one time use stick-on as you mentioned, and I do remove them immediately after each event. Here is a close up picture:

26l.webp
 
Love the write up; gives me confidence going to the track with stock setup for someone new to HPDE.
In addition to the racing brake fluid, did you change the brake pads or still running OEM?

Thanks, I have only changed the brake fluid. The brake pads/rotors are OEM.
They are performing fine, even though we can always upgrade to a better setup. I am really keen on the CCB kit that is offered by @Warren-RB and we have exchanged few emails so far, but I'm still studying this move. I understand people like to go iron discs for their lower price, but that weight saving in the CCB is huge. The only point making me not ordering it still is the heat management on this setup. With all the track activity I have in mind, this needs to be carefully decided.

This is just the info discussed in the emails so far if anyone is interested:

My initial inquiry

" Inquiry on: RB-CCB Rotor Kit (380/350) for Lotus Emira - Iron Rotor to Carbon Ceramic Rotor Conversion Upgrade (P/N 2R72 & 2R73).
I understand that many convert from CCB to steel for track use to save running cost, but in this case, I wanted to have the benefit of light weight brakes for some track use. I have seen you mentioned it is not for heavy track use, may I know why? what is the impact on using this kit for tracking?
And any recommendations for CCB brakes to use for track if this specific kit is not suitable for my use?
I do multiple open track days, some Time Attack competitions and Autocross (roughly 12 rounds a year or so) and this is in the GCC countries which is a hot climate mostly "

They have replied with a very clear explanation:

" CCB rotors, due to its lower density compared to iron rotors, for the same amount of energy (heat) absorbed will substantially increase the braking temperature therefore for a standard (factory) ccb brake system (eg. Porsche pccb) the size/volume of pads, rotors and even the calipers must be larger/bigger in order to run it successfully for any tasks including heavy duty tracking.
Since this is a "retrofit" conversion the setup is still constrained to the OE calipers (4 pot vs. 6 pot), same size of pads, although the front rotors are slightly oversized to 380x34mm vs. stock iron of 370x32mm.
As a car enthusiast looking into advanced ccb brake adventure, we have done everything possible to meet that goal at an affordable price but must honestly point it out, so you understand what to expect.
Downgrading from ccb to iron has no concern in heat handling except the drawbacks in heavy weight and brake dusts.
We offer the similar upgrade conversion for GTR, Alfa Romeo, Lexus etc., but those vehicles already come with larger front 6 pot calipers, so they are less concerned. "

I have then asked further on specific details of my plan:

" Thanks for the feedback.
I have done some more research, and I understand the retrofit constraints.
But just to make it crystal clear for me, I would assume heavy tracking is doing multiple hot laps where you will gain so much heat it will affect the braking system.
In my case, I do Time Attack competition which is usually requires 2-3 hot laps testing then cooling and going out, then another 2-3 hot laps for clocking my lap times then cooling and out.
Some tracks are heavy on braking like Bahrain int circuit and some are more friendly.
Some have 2 minutes lap length, but most are below that.
Our outside temperature will be maxed on 35-38 C on a hot day, but usually lower.
If I purchased and installed this ccb system, on my case, will I still be pushing it and may experience brake fade quickly?
Or this system can take this kind of tracking safely?
I am trying to see if this is justified as the system looks way better for performance "

They have replied with:

" You might be OK with intermittent heat cycles, however, just bear in mind that each kit has its own limit depending on how it's been used "

I have to say they are really professional giving the right feedback and not just trying to push a sale which I highly respect. And they are correct it will all depends on how I will use it. So, I'm doing now my homework on this, I will be deciding a bit later though as it is not urgent as of now.
 
Thanks, I have only changed the brake fluid. The brake pads/rotors are OEM.
They are performing fine, even though we can always upgrade to a better setup. I am really keen on the CCB kit that is offered by @Warren-RB and we have exchanged few emails so far, but I'm still studying this move. I understand people like to go iron discs for their lower price, but that weight saving in the CCB is huge. The only point making me not ordering it still is the heat management on this setup. With all the track activity I have in mind, this needs to be carefully decided.

This is just the info discussed in the emails so far if anyone is interested:

My initial inquiry

" Inquiry on: RB-CCB Rotor Kit (380/350) for Lotus Emira - Iron Rotor to Carbon Ceramic Rotor Conversion Upgrade (P/N 2R72 & 2R73).
I understand that many convert from CCB to steel for track use to save running cost, but in this case, I wanted to have the benefit of light weight brakes for some track use. I have seen you mentioned it is not for heavy track use, may I know why? what is the impact on using this kit for tracking?
And any recommendations for CCB brakes to use for track if this specific kit is not suitable for my use?
I do multiple open track days, some Time Attack competitions and Autocross (roughly 12 rounds a year or so) and this is in the GCC countries which is a hot climate mostly "

They have replied with a very clear explanation:

" CCB rotors, due to its lower density compared to iron rotors, for the same amount of energy (heat) absorbed will substantially increase the braking temperature therefore for a standard (factory) ccb brake system (eg. Porsche pccb) the size/volume of pads, rotors and even the calipers must be larger/bigger in order to run it successfully for any tasks including heavy duty tracking.
Since this is a "retrofit" conversion the setup is still constrained to the OE calipers (4 pot vs. 6 pot), same size of pads, although the front rotors are slightly oversized to 380x34mm vs. stock iron of 370x32mm.
As a car enthusiast looking into advanced ccb brake adventure, we have done everything possible to meet that goal at an affordable price but must honestly point it out, so you understand what to expect.
Downgrading from ccb to iron has no concern in heat handling except the drawbacks in heavy weight and brake dusts.
We offer the similar upgrade conversion for GTR, Alfa Romeo, Lexus etc., but those vehicles already come with larger front 6 pot calipers, so they are less concerned. "

I have then asked further on specific details of my plan:

" Thanks for the feedback.
I have done some more research, and I understand the retrofit constraints.
But just to make it crystal clear for me, I would assume heavy tracking is doing multiple hot laps where you will gain so much heat it will affect the braking system.
In my case, I do Time Attack competition which is usually requires 2-3 hot laps testing then cooling and going out, then another 2-3 hot laps for clocking my lap times then cooling and out.
Some tracks are heavy on braking like Bahrain int circuit and some are more friendly.
Some have 2 minutes lap length, but most are below that.
Our outside temperature will be maxed on 35-38 C on a hot day, but usually lower.
If I purchased and installed this ccb system, on my case, will I still be pushing it and may experience brake fade quickly?
Or this system can take this kind of tracking safely?
I am trying to see if this is justified as the system looks way better for performance "

They have replied with:

" You might be OK with intermittent heat cycles, however, just bear in mind that each kit has its own limit depending on how it's been used "

I have to say they are really professional giving the right feedback and not just trying to push a sale which I highly respect. And they are correct it will all depends on how I will use it. So, I'm doing now my homework on this, I will be deciding a bit later though as it is not urgent as of now.
You might want to look into improved air ducts to the front brakes to help with the cooling. I know RB has their "Big Brake" upgrades for other cars where you go from 4 pot to 6 pot brakes, at least in the front. They're great to work with, so they may be able to help out in getting something that will work for you.
 
I bought the reusable stickers from clubregistration (you're right, magnetic won't work), and they worked well and removed easily enough. I don't think they'll be an issue using them a few more times.
Thanks gwman. I checked out "clubregistration". Anything I'd buy from them won't work on ceramic coating, which my car has. I'll keep looking for something that I can easily peel off and hopefully re-use at least a couple of times.
 

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