Finally starting to get some installs done. Parts are taking much longer than expected and import duties have been crazy.
1. Shiftboot Delete - Got this in silver direct from Darkworks. Decided I wanted gloss black after ordered. Took it to a local powdercoat custom shop.. was like $20. I like it better than silver.
2. GRP Steering Wheel - Wasn’t sure I really wanted this but I’m glad I did. Very good quality all around. I like how to stitching feels and it all feels OEM plus. No regrets.
3. Hawk ceramic brake pads - Still a little dusty, maybe cause they are new. I’m not getting any squeaking noises. Initial bite is gone and much smoother for daily driving. I like them but slightly less confidence inspiring when in need of quick stop. (By feel). But no regrets so far.
4. Ultradisc Silver Rotors - So, the stock rotors are actually really light and these are a hair lighter.. so not getting the big unsprung weight loss benefit… but apparently they are very well tested and reliable. Better for tracking maybe not so much for daily drive. But they are less prone to cracking than cross-drilled and maybe beneficial for spirited canyon driving.
5. Darkworks shift Knob / Inokinetic ESW Kit / Aerie Short Shifter - The Darkworks shift knob is slightly bigger at 51mm diameter than the stock 46mm and the are like 50% heavier. I personally think 50mm would be the perfect diameter knob. I also put in 2 of 3 ESW Kit plates. So, these kind of accomplish the same objective just at two different areas. You lose some of the notchy feeling but the weight makes things a little smoother. Since, I installed these separately, I realized I don't think you need both. I'll probably end up taking out the ESW plates since I plan on keeping a heavier shift knob. I ordered the BFI knob to try out and it's also heavier than stock knob. With both installed, sometimes, shifting into neutral requires so little effort that you end up going into another gear slightly. It's a little too smooth. So, one or the other. If you like the OEM knob, and want easier smoother shifting, 2 ESW plates may be the way to go. If you go for a heavier shift knob, you won't need the ESW plates IMO.
EDIT: After some more driving, I think there is a case for weightier shift knob and 2 ESW Plates. You'll lose almost all notchiness and shifts are butter smooth with very little resistance assuming you've adjusted the reverse lockout plate correctly. If that's your thing, this is the way to do it.
GRP vs Aerie Short Shifter... I was a big fan of the GRP short shifter, mine was set at the longest setting. The Aerie short shifter has one setting. Honestly, don't notice a difference. They are both excellent. HOWEVER, I was one of the cases where the neutral position was set back after installing the GRP shifter. So, I asked the shop to make the adjustments so that neutral is back in the middle. They were able to do it. The shifter is slightly set to the right now but someone else said they experienced the same. I'm not bothered by it. It's close enough to middle now. I did notice though that neutral seems to be more present.. maybe slightly more wiggle room. It's a good thing. It's much less ambiguous. I'm not sure if that's the cable adjustment or the Aerie short shifter. Regardless, the whole shifting experience, minus the 2 ESW plates, is exceptional now. Compared to my old FL5 which is recognized as one of the best shifting experiences around.. it's just as good. I have no problems pounding away shifts up or down in any gear. If you're one of the cases having issues with smooth shifting.. The solution is...
a. Get a short shifter from GRP or Aerie
b. Make sure you make the cable adjustment to bring neutral as close to center as possible
c. If things are still bad, you need to adjust the reverse lockout plate. There is a thread on this... (this is probably first)
d. The shifter gets smoother after a few thousand miles.
e. If none of that works.. the problem is your left foot.
6. GRP Lowering Kit - Asked my shop to do 10mm front and 12mm rear drop... it looks like they dropped it a little too much.. will have to go back and get adjustment. I've noticed that they seem to be dampening the road feel a little.. Nothing crazy. Still drives well and not low enough to scrape..
7. PCD Spacers - Went with 12mm spacers all around. With the slight camber adjustment, noticing the rear wells are definitely not flush and just ordered 12mm front, 15mm rear spacers from another company, Bonoss. They look really good.
8. JUBU Toe Links - Honestly, don't feel much here but they were high quality pieces...
9. Titanium Lug Bolts - These were brand new... look pretty scraped up after install. Is this typical? Can you expect a shop to take enough care to put something in between as to not scrape the bolts.. or is that asking too much? I ask this because.. If I was working on someone else's car, I would take that level of care.
10. Milltek Valve Controller - There's kind of a split camp when it comes to 3rd Cat Delete vs. Milltek Valve Controller w/ Cat Delete. I was originally in the MVC not necessary camp. My thoughts have changed on this. The car sounds better than with just the cat delete even in track mode. At lower rpm its definitely noticeable and slightly louder at the high end. But it's more than that.. It just brings extra character to the car while not being overly loud. Around where I stay, there are muscle cars and trucks that are so loud your heart shakes and its annoying. This is not anywhere close to that level. The problem is that they are prone to melting and malfunctioning due to heat and water. If you can protect it properly and keep it functioning, there's definitely a case for being pro-MVC.
1. Shiftboot Delete - Got this in silver direct from Darkworks. Decided I wanted gloss black after ordered. Took it to a local powdercoat custom shop.. was like $20. I like it better than silver.
2. GRP Steering Wheel - Wasn’t sure I really wanted this but I’m glad I did. Very good quality all around. I like how to stitching feels and it all feels OEM plus. No regrets.
3. Hawk ceramic brake pads - Still a little dusty, maybe cause they are new. I’m not getting any squeaking noises. Initial bite is gone and much smoother for daily driving. I like them but slightly less confidence inspiring when in need of quick stop. (By feel). But no regrets so far.
4. Ultradisc Silver Rotors - So, the stock rotors are actually really light and these are a hair lighter.. so not getting the big unsprung weight loss benefit… but apparently they are very well tested and reliable. Better for tracking maybe not so much for daily drive. But they are less prone to cracking than cross-drilled and maybe beneficial for spirited canyon driving.
5. Darkworks shift Knob / Inokinetic ESW Kit / Aerie Short Shifter - The Darkworks shift knob is slightly bigger at 51mm diameter than the stock 46mm and the are like 50% heavier. I personally think 50mm would be the perfect diameter knob. I also put in 2 of 3 ESW Kit plates. So, these kind of accomplish the same objective just at two different areas. You lose some of the notchy feeling but the weight makes things a little smoother. Since, I installed these separately, I realized I don't think you need both. I'll probably end up taking out the ESW plates since I plan on keeping a heavier shift knob. I ordered the BFI knob to try out and it's also heavier than stock knob. With both installed, sometimes, shifting into neutral requires so little effort that you end up going into another gear slightly. It's a little too smooth. So, one or the other. If you like the OEM knob, and want easier smoother shifting, 2 ESW plates may be the way to go. If you go for a heavier shift knob, you won't need the ESW plates IMO.
EDIT: After some more driving, I think there is a case for weightier shift knob and 2 ESW Plates. You'll lose almost all notchiness and shifts are butter smooth with very little resistance assuming you've adjusted the reverse lockout plate correctly. If that's your thing, this is the way to do it.
GRP vs Aerie Short Shifter... I was a big fan of the GRP short shifter, mine was set at the longest setting. The Aerie short shifter has one setting. Honestly, don't notice a difference. They are both excellent. HOWEVER, I was one of the cases where the neutral position was set back after installing the GRP shifter. So, I asked the shop to make the adjustments so that neutral is back in the middle. They were able to do it. The shifter is slightly set to the right now but someone else said they experienced the same. I'm not bothered by it. It's close enough to middle now. I did notice though that neutral seems to be more present.. maybe slightly more wiggle room. It's a good thing. It's much less ambiguous. I'm not sure if that's the cable adjustment or the Aerie short shifter. Regardless, the whole shifting experience, minus the 2 ESW plates, is exceptional now. Compared to my old FL5 which is recognized as one of the best shifting experiences around.. it's just as good. I have no problems pounding away shifts up or down in any gear. If you're one of the cases having issues with smooth shifting.. The solution is...
a. Get a short shifter from GRP or Aerie
b. Make sure you make the cable adjustment to bring neutral as close to center as possible
c. If things are still bad, you need to adjust the reverse lockout plate. There is a thread on this... (this is probably first)
d. The shifter gets smoother after a few thousand miles.
e. If none of that works.. the problem is your left foot.
6. GRP Lowering Kit - Asked my shop to do 10mm front and 12mm rear drop... it looks like they dropped it a little too much.. will have to go back and get adjustment. I've noticed that they seem to be dampening the road feel a little.. Nothing crazy. Still drives well and not low enough to scrape..
7. PCD Spacers - Went with 12mm spacers all around. With the slight camber adjustment, noticing the rear wells are definitely not flush and just ordered 12mm front, 15mm rear spacers from another company, Bonoss. They look really good.
8. JUBU Toe Links - Honestly, don't feel much here but they were high quality pieces...
9. Titanium Lug Bolts - These were brand new... look pretty scraped up after install. Is this typical? Can you expect a shop to take enough care to put something in between as to not scrape the bolts.. or is that asking too much? I ask this because.. If I was working on someone else's car, I would take that level of care.
10. Milltek Valve Controller - There's kind of a split camp when it comes to 3rd Cat Delete vs. Milltek Valve Controller w/ Cat Delete. I was originally in the MVC not necessary camp. My thoughts have changed on this. The car sounds better than with just the cat delete even in track mode. At lower rpm its definitely noticeable and slightly louder at the high end. But it's more than that.. It just brings extra character to the car while not being overly loud. Around where I stay, there are muscle cars and trucks that are so loud your heart shakes and its annoying. This is not anywhere close to that level. The problem is that they are prone to melting and malfunctioning due to heat and water. If you can protect it properly and keep it functioning, there's definitely a case for being pro-MVC.
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