Engine out! Officially done after this...

I get that truly, no one been chasing this windmill longer.

But to spend $20k to get 480whp which anyone can get for $900 installed. Nah bro

Don’t go out like that
Let me drive around with this JB4 and let it marinate ;)
 
But to spend $20k to get 480whp which anyone can get for $900 installed. Nah bro
$900 for 480whp? So I'm guessing; Intake (?), free-flowing exhaust (headers and Y-pipe) and tune? That's still $2500+ altogether even if you fit them yourself (Eventuri $1500, Aerie headers $900, Aerie y-pipe $600, Tune $800?). What are you doing for your 480whp?
 
By the way, the JUBU insulation kit, which I thought were motor mounts, are actually transmission bushings.. The same as the Powerflex ones. So, my shop asked me which ones I want to do and well sending something back to Austria is not really a great option so I went with the JUBU.
 
By the way, the JUBU insulation kit, which I thought were motor mounts, are actually transmission bushings.. The same as the Powerflex ones. So, my shop asked me which ones I want to do and well sending something back to Austria is not really a great option so I went with the JUBU.
They are same as power flex.

I told you this!
 
$900 for 480whp? So I'm guessing; Intake (?), free-flowing exhaust (headers and Y-pipe) and tune? That's still $2500+ altogether even if you fit them yourself (Eventuri $1500, Aerie headers $900, Aerie y-pipe $600, Tune $800?). What are you doing for your 480whp?
Pulley and jb4. That’s it
 
They are same as power flex.

I told you this!
You did but I thought maybe there was an overlap like 2 of 4 powerflex and 2 jubu bushing but no.. its literally the same place just slightlly different application approaches
 
You did but I thought maybe there was an overlap like 2 of 4 powerflex and 2 jubu bushing but no.. its literally the same place just slightlly different application approaches
They’re duplicative and not combinable. Inserts way easier and cheaper labor wise

I botched this when ordering frankly 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Why did you do a clutch upgrade? I thought it was good for 550? I have the I4, so I was always under the impression the axles were the weakness? I think this is what people are asking?
 
Why did you do a clutch upgrade? I thought it was good for 550? I have the I4, so I was always under the impression the axles were the weakness? I think this is what people are asking?
The axels are the weakness, although some think it was just a bad batch. My honest opinion is its probably a combination of less than stellar material and bad quality control management.

Some people have been complaining about the clutch slipping and I started to have that issue. I know its not my driving.. I probably have around 700k plus miles of manual driving with several different cars. The clutch started slipping after picking up the car from my local Lotus dealership after routine checkup. I noticed immediately. Never took it back there and never will.

Also, with plans to go to about 500hp give or take and possibly more in the future, I think its borderline what the stock clutch can handle so I went with the upgrade.
 
The axels are the weakness, although some think it was just a bad batch. My honest opinion is its probably a combination of less than stellar material and bad quality control management.

Some people have been complaining about the clutch slipping and I started to have that issue. I know its not my driving.. I probably have around 700k plus miles of manual driving with several different cars. The clutch started slipping after picking up the car from my local Lotus dealership after routine checkup. I noticed immediately. Never took it back there and never will.

Also, with plans to go to about 500hp give or take and possibly more in the future, I think its borderline what the stock clutch can handle so I went with the upgrade.
Congrats!
 
By the way, I’ve never upgraded to an aftermarket clutch before, so this is all really an experiment.
 
I botched this when ordering frankly 🤷🏻‍♂️
So are you running a custom map on the JB4 to take into account the pulley change?
I would never ever modify my engine.

But my very close friend has a custom map for his pulley. The map added about 10hp more than map 2 per dyno. I am not sure how much more the jb4 can spoof the ecu, bc even w jb4 in place. the car actually is closing throttle at high rpms. Despite gas pedal flat to floor. It just refuses the request basically.

This is what led to the ecu grail quest..
 
I botched this when ordering frankly 🤷🏻‍♂️

I would never ever modify my engine.

But my very close friend has a custom map for his pulley. The map added about 10hp more than map 2 per dyno. I am not sure how much more the jb4 can spoof the ecu, bc even w jb4 in place. the car actually is closing throttle at high rpms. Despite gas pedal flat to floor. It just refuses the request basically.

This is what led to the ecu grail quest..
Did the pulley upgrade improves the performance?
 
Did the pulley upgrade improves the performance?
Sure. But at a certain point the stock ecu is basically refusing to use the extra air/boost which the pulley provide. And it does so by closing the throttle no matter what the gas pedal says/does.

The jb4 helps with this, by lying to the ecu, but only to a point (it would seem)
 
Greetings, all. I believe this question (perhaps all) have been raised previously, however I may have missed the answer/comments.
I’m looking at the JB4 for my 2.0 T. What problems have been encountered mechanically wise with the additional power?
1) Is the standard installed DCT tranny capable of handling the increased hp, or more particularly the higher torque.
2) what is the anticipated engine temperature expected to be, when the JB4 turns the wick up to the most powerful map setting?
3) in relation to 2 above, what practical and workable solution is planned to reduce the engine and engine compartment obvious increase in temperature?
Sorry if these questions have been answered in previous posts. Look forward to you insightful comments.
Greetings from Surfers Paradise QLD, Australia.
 
Emira just went into the shop Monday morning. Here is the list of what's going in... The full mod list is in my signature. Pretty sure I'm done after this.

ENGINE: Aerie Motorsports Header / Valvetronic Titanium Exhaust / JB4 Tuner / JUBU Cooling Upgrade 2GR / JUBU Cooling Hose Upgrade Kit / JUBU Pulley Upgrade Kit / JUBU Aluminum Alternator Pulley / JUBU Torque Insulator Upgrade Kit

TRANSMISSION: XClutch Stage 1 / Powerflex Trans Mount Bushings

SUSPENSION, BRAKES, WHEELS: Nitron R1 Fast Road Coilovers

MISC.: JUBU Ventilation Kit / Lotus Baffled Oil Pan / JUBU Aluminum Flaps

Notables:

1. Yes, that's right, I'm going JB4 with OBD2 connected. I like the continuous monitoring and adjustments. I'm pretty sure it will be enough for me, especially with full bolt-ons and JUBU cooling.

2. For exhaust, going titanium with JUBU ventilation kit.

3. I decided to go engine out for the clutch upgrade and easier motor mount installation. The Emira really needs those motor mounts..

4. Switching from GRP lowering kit to the Nitron R1 Fast Road Coilovers. My axel boots were leaking. Not gonna point fingers or investigate. Don't have the time for it. Could be the installation, the sleeves, Lotus, a combination... don't care enough to try. Shop is rebuilding boots and I'll have to bring it back just for the coilovers as building and shipping will take a month on those.

Once everything is done.. about a week for everything but the coilovers, I'll post a review.
While the CV-joint boots aren’t very expensive, a lot of labor is involved in replacing them, as the axle shaft normally has to be removed to do so. It’s primarily the labor that can push that job into the hundreds of dollars, and the amount can vary a lot depending on the vehicle.
Because labor is such a big part of the job, sometimes it’s preferred to just replace the entire axle shaft with new boots and CV joints already in place. This also helps ensure that you won’t risk the original CV joint beneath the bad boot sustaining damage due to lack of grease or being contaminated.
Since you will be adding more power in the future then why wouldn't you upgrade the axles now since some have had issues with the stock axles breaking?
 
While the CV-joint boots aren’t very expensive, a lot of labor is involved in replacing them, as the axle shaft normally has to be removed to do so. It’s primarily the labor that can push that job into the hundreds of dollars, and the amount can vary a lot depending on the vehicle.
Because labor is such a big part of the job, sometimes it’s preferred to just replace the entire axle shaft with new boots and CV joints already in place. This also helps ensure that you won’t risk the original CV joint beneath the bad boot sustaining damage due to lack of grease or being contaminated.
Since you will be adding more power in the future then why wouldn't you upgrade the axles now since some have had issues with the stock axles breaking?
Since the only option that seems to be available is the JUBU that will run about $8000 not including tariffs which would bump that up to possible $12,000 plus installation. I've been getting 50% tariffs from anything I order from JUBU.
 

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