📓 Journals Adding Lightness
- Thread starter Eagle7
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This prefix is only usable in the Lotus Emira Journals forum.
- Thread starter
- #482
Yes and 24 FtlLbs of torque.
If you want analysis on a daily basis you can email yourself logs out of JB4 app and throw it into ChatGPT or whatever AI you use, it does a great job of reading the tables and telling you specific things that are going on...specifically in terms of knock and timing advance or pull related to bad batch of gas for example. There is so much variance tank to tank that the effects on a high output system like we have can swing a lot depending on the gas. There was one tank my car really didn't like from the same station and pump number that it was pulling timing a lot.
Do you know how much boost your car was pushing ?
Mine between 5300 and 6800 RPM is 8.4 9.1 psi of boost.
Do you live at high altitude ?
What was the outside temperature that Day ?
I always found +95hp was too good to be true. +50-75HP is what I was looking for but your result is a cold shower.
I'm wondering if Eagle7 received a defective controller. There are some that have been shipped back and replaced. It's definitely worth sharing the logs with Burger to see what he thinks. The results just don't match what we've seen from other installs.
- Thread starter
- #486
Boost was 8.8 max
Altitude is 2,800 ft
Outside temp was 60's
The results for Map 1 are actually pretty good, all things considered. Map 2 not being much if any difference just means I need better gas. I'm going to contact a few of the local stations near me, and see if I can get one of them to add real 93 to one of their pumps. There are enough performance cars in the valley now, that I think I can make a case that it would be profitable to be the only true 93 station around, especially once the word gets out.
- Thread starter
- #487
Hadn't thought of that, although the car has been running great with the JB4 Map 1. Better than stock actually.
I'm fortunate to have a gas station that offers 100 at the pump that I can mix with 91 to reach the target 93. There are probably gas stations or other retail options for buying 5 gallon jugs of 100 race gas near you. Have you checked the VP racing fuels and Sunoco retailer locators on their websites?
Can’t hurt to send a few logs of map 1 and map 2 to burger team.
Does this really matter though? I don't think any updates have been made from logs that were already sent, and I also don't believe there is any way to get an over-the-air update if a change is made.
Would be nice if they had a "2.0" product that addressed these concerns into new software.
I can’t speak to what custom mapping they have or have not done privately or otherwise.
Of course there is an over air update…
They send you custom map file.
And
Do they really send custom map file or they just tell to everyone their logs look ok fine…I can’t speak to what custom mapping they have or have not done privately or otherwise.
Of course there is an over air update…
They send you custom map file.
And
I think it depends on candidate quality
- Thread starter
- #495
I sent the log to Burger and he got back to me. He said he could see the timing corrections and it was definitely the gas. What he saw was not what was supposed to happen on Map 2 with 93 octane. He recommended I add 2 gallons of E85 to boost the octane, and that would give much better results.
Great news!! Means there’s more power in there! Excited for you
Also great that
team is so responsive and helpful@Eagle7
I am looking to fab my own exhaust. Were you able to successfully fab the true dual with the x-pipe?
If so, what diameter pipe did you use?
Is there a way to use an O2 spacer to prevent the exhaust gas related CEL from the headers?
I am interested in going with the headers, but I would still like the CEL as a warning for other parts of the system (and I really do not feel like checking codes that often to see if something besides exhaust gas CEL is in the log.
I am modding mine for fun. I may do some HDPE days and mainly autocross for the fun of it. I am also doing some show car pieces because our 11yr old daughter and I enjoy taking cars to the local car shows. Since I do not have a full track-focused Emira, I would like to keep somewhat streetable, but the headers and x-pipe will be very nice if I can figure out how to avoid the CEL.
I am looking to fab my own exhaust. Were you able to successfully fab the true dual with the x-pipe?
If so, what diameter pipe did you use?
Is there a way to use an O2 spacer to prevent the exhaust gas related CEL from the headers?
I am interested in going with the headers, but I would still like the CEL as a warning for other parts of the system (and I really do not feel like checking codes that often to see if something besides exhaust gas CEL is in the log.
I am modding mine for fun. I may do some HDPE days and mainly autocross for the fun of it. I am also doing some show car pieces because our 11yr old daughter and I enjoy taking cars to the local car shows. Since I do not have a full track-focused Emira, I would like to keep somewhat streetable, but the headers and x-pipe will be very nice if I can figure out how to avoid the CEL.
- Thread starter
- #498
I've not had the dual exhaust system built yet. I was given a referral by the guy who does the dynos for me, for an exhaust specialist that specializes in custom exhaust systems. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up (and stop raining) before I go out to see him. He's about an hour away so I'll need to make an appointment to make sure he can look at what I want done. I've revised my original drawings a few times, so the wait hasn't been without benefits.
What I've worked out could work with headers, but that would also require 2 sport cats which I believe my design would allow for. I've thought about it, and I don't think I'll go with the headers, at least not at first. I want to see what the true dual system will do first. Adding headers adds cost for them, the 2 cats, and making a an adapter to extend the O2 sensors to where the 2 cats would have to be. Changing that many things all at once just increases the likelihood of issues, which makes troubleshooting much more of a pain. I think just the dual exhaust shouldn't cause any codes, but I want to make sure first before I go any further.
Don't use an O2 spacer, that's just going to screw up the readings for the ECU. Headers are probably going to want a custom tune, either something like the JB4 or VF's, and you'll have to work with them to data log and make the adjustments.
Hopefully within the next few weeks I'll be able to get out to the exhaust guy and see what's possible, and what it would cost. If it's not too much, I'll get a dyno and post the results, as well as a sound clip. It should sound pretty good.
- Thread starter
- #499
Got a few things done on the car. Finally installed the RacingBrake CCB rotors, which give the car a more exotic appearance I think.
One of our forum members has already done an excellent how-to for the install, so rather than duplicate his efforts here's a link to his install:
The factory front rotors weigh 20 lbs 10.4 oz, and the RB CCB fronts weigh 14 lbs 8.6 oz for a weight savings of 6 lbs
The factory rear rotors weigh 17 lbs 3.8 oz, and the RC CCB rotors weigh 11 lbs 8.8 oz for a weight savings of just under 6 lbs.
Driving Impression:
Car steers easier, especially for left-right-left-right type of manuevers. Feels just a bit lighter on its feet; picks up speed quickly, especially once you reach 3k rpm. Braking is very smooth and linear, there's no sudden grab like the factory brakes have. This allows for very precise application of the brakes. No squeaking. I completely cleaned the wheels inside and out before putting them back on the car, and in the picture above, that's how clean they still are after the rotor/pad bedding in process, and driving around a few hours with them. With the factory brakes, the wheels are dusty by the time I reach the end of the street. Very happy with them. At my age, these are lifetime brakes. I'll never need to do a pad change again.
One of our forum members has already done an excellent how-to for the install, so rather than duplicate his efforts here's a link to his install:
The factory front rotors weigh 20 lbs 10.4 oz, and the RB CCB fronts weigh 14 lbs 8.6 oz for a weight savings of 6 lbs
The factory rear rotors weigh 17 lbs 3.8 oz, and the RC CCB rotors weigh 11 lbs 8.8 oz for a weight savings of just under 6 lbs.
Driving Impression:
Car steers easier, especially for left-right-left-right type of manuevers. Feels just a bit lighter on its feet; picks up speed quickly, especially once you reach 3k rpm. Braking is very smooth and linear, there's no sudden grab like the factory brakes have. This allows for very precise application of the brakes. No squeaking. I completely cleaned the wheels inside and out before putting them back on the car, and in the picture above, that's how clean they still are after the rotor/pad bedding in process, and driving around a few hours with them. With the factory brakes, the wheels are dusty by the time I reach the end of the street. Very happy with them. At my age, these are lifetime brakes. I'll never need to do a pad change again.
- Thread starter
- #500
I also bought and installed a very nice wooden shift knob. It's one-piece mahogany, and 49mm in size. Here's a picture of the factory knob on the left which is 47mm, the wood one at 49mm, and a 51mm metal one on the right. The wooden one is the perfect size for me and feels great in the hand. It just feels more natural than the metal ones do.
Looks good with the tan leather interior.
Next I'm going to try and get the dual exhaust system done. Depends on what it's going to cost.
Looks good with the tan leather interior.
Next I'm going to try and get the dual exhaust system done. Depends on what it's going to cost.
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