Washing considerations - what to watch out for?

[EmirOfDenmark]

I have been washing the car a few times since I got it. I use my pressure washer and car soap I use for other cars as well. Then, hand dry it with cloth.
Are there any considerations people are aware of, when washing? I.e. any places one should not shoot water into (other than the obvious). Any of the vents? Also, I know it is by design that the water drips on the engine when you open a wet cover, but it always seems a little weirds when that happens. Any issues with that anybody has had?

 

[Mistral]

I use a pressure washer to wet the car, then apply snow foam, leave for 5 minutes then pressure washer off. I use a small but powerful leaf blower to dry it. I don't spray through the mesh of the vents, always spraying from the side at a good angle. I spray the bonnet and front wings from the front to prevent too much water going into the bonnet vents.

The rear hatch is a quirk but if there's water on it I either don't open it or open it carefully, just a few centimetres at first for the water to drain into the channel behind the engine.

 

[gpslgs]

I find using a piece of half inch to three quarter inch rubber pipe insulation cut to the width of the window pressed flat and slid under the window halfway before I hand wash works perfectly and is very soft and will not scratch. I actually keep it in the trunk. And before removing it, I use a small leaf blower to remove the excess water off the lid. A full length of the pipe insulation is about 6 feet and costs about three dollars.

 

[Lotus64]

I find using a piece of half inch to three quarter inch rubber pipe insulation cut to the width of the window pressed flat and slid under the window halfway before I hand wash works perfectly and is very soft and will not scratch.

Thanks for the tip! Great idea.

 

[RoryBellows]

I dont think theres anywhere where you will beak something by spraying but if you spray into that glass vent at the rear you will soak your engine bay. Otherwise just make sure you are using a wide enough tip and low enough pressure where its safe for your paint.

My general procedure for washing is:
Spray all 4 wheels with wheel cleaner, brush, and rinse whole car
Foam cannon no wiping and rinse
Foam cannon with wiping and rinse
Dry
Detail spray
Windows

So far its worked well. I have ppf so I dont have to wax. The detail spray has a ceramic in it but I don't think its anything too high tech.

 

[Andrew25]

The manual recommends to wash in the shade. These days I hardly get any shade here. Do you think this could be an issue?

 

[Orchardbike]

The manual recommends to wash in the shade. These days I hardly get any shade here. Do you think this could be an issue?

No. But it is best practice for any car.

 

[Andrew25]

No. But it is best practice for any car.

Indeed. I asked because of the dreaded Emira paintwork. I guess I’ll stick with the dirt until I get some shade tomorrow morning

 

[frazzer]

No. But it is best practice for any car.

The issue is the water drying too quickly due to the body being hot in sun. If you're not using spotless water and are not in a very soft water area this leaves drying marks. For the same reason it's good to let the engine and rear panels cool before washing if you can.

 

[Lotus64]

Emira wash routine.....

1. Cover front door seals with tape
2. Cover bottom of windshield with towels
3. Low pressure rinse, avoiding window seals, intakes and vents around hood and engine
4. Wash with microfiber in 4 sections (front, sides, rear) - 2 bucket method with dirt catcher
5. Rinse (4 sections)
6. Spray on Griots 3-in-1 ceramic wax while wet to bead water - the best detailing product I've encountered
7. Final Rinse
8. Blow dry - extra attention to doors, vents, crevices..
9. Spot dry with damp microfiber - windows first, then body
10. Dry door jambs
11. Rinse wheels
12 Wash wheel with microfiber - one at a time
13. Rinse wheel
14. Blow dry wheel
15. Short highway drive to completely dry and prevent brake rust

 

[geoffbland]

6. Spray on Griots 3-in-1 ceramic wax while wet to bead water - the best detailing product I've encountered
7. Final Rinse

Wow! You obviously are careful with your cleaning. But I'm curious about this bit, steps 6-7 - how does that work? The ceramic coating (basically SiO2) needs to dry onto your car's paint to coat it before it will bead any water? If you just go straight to rinsing I would have thought it'll just all wash off and do nothing. Is there a missing step here of rubbing the ceramic coating coating in or was the car already coated from previous washes?

 

[Lotus64]

Wow! You obviously are careful with your cleaning. But I'm curious about this bit, steps 6-7 - how does that work? The ceramic coating (basically SiO2) needs to dry onto your car's paint to coat it before it will bead any water? If you just go straight to rinsing I would have thought it'll just all wash off and do nothing. Is there a missing step here of rubbing the ceramic coating coating in or was the car already coated from previous washes?

Great question. Ceramic coatings are most effective when applied on a dry surface. However certain products can alternatively be used on wet surfaces as a rinse aid. The directions should specify.

The ceramic coating does not wash off when applied on wet surface. In fact, the coverage is pretty even due to the rinse application. All it takes is 2-3 sprays per body panel and then rinse from the top to the bottom.

The water immediately beads right after application and makes blow drying quick and easy. It's very noticeable. I reapply during every wash and protection lasts in-between washes. It won't last as long as dry application but serves it's purpose.

Without the ceramic spray, the blow drying isn't as effective at drying the car. Results in much less contact with the paint, especially when drying but also when washing, and less chances for scratches.