Well this absolutely sucks, jack slipped off rear pad

I am so very lucky I think, could have been so much worse considering the lines that run through there.

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Just in case anyone else goes through this horrible experience, here are a few more pictures I scoured off the net that expose what's under the sill.

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Since the weather wasn't horrid (still not great, humid, but with a breeze tolerable).

I took the wheel off, and took the liner out for way better pictures of the bracket.

And I can get away with just the bracket. The panel did crack but its minor and once the panel is back to where its supposed to be no body will ever know.

The pipes did move a bit but they aren't crushed or anything so thats great. Once I see the new bracket in person I'll make another assessment. The cad drawing I've been finding on the lotus parts signs looks like it was made to be viewed on a potato. Lowest res image I've seen in 20 years.

EmiraV6LHDNA_bodysidesandrearbulkhead.webp


IMG_0348.webp

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Basically 4 bolts, and easy replacement. Should be able to do this with just the liner and wheel removed.


IMG_0373.webp
 
Bottom sill plate looks bent. You plan to straighten back to normal shape and hope it lines up? I will just say you are not alone in this mis-hap, dealing with my own jack slip. :(
 
Bottom sill plate looks bent. You plan to straighten back to normal shape and hope it lines up? I will just say you are not alone in this mis-hap, dealing with my own jack slip. :(
Bottom sill plate is plastic. So should flatten out.
 
Tangentially to this thread, I recently had my car on a 4 post lift using the factory jack points. I got a little freaked out because when stopping the lift the nose of the car would sometimes actually do a little hop because of how rear biased the weight is. Seems like this shouldn’t happen with the factory jack points.
 
Tangentially to this thread, I recently had my car on a 4 post lift using the factory jack points. I got a little freaked out because when stopping the lift the nose of the car would sometimes actually do a little hop because of how rear biased the weight is. Seems like this shouldn’t happen with the factory jack points.
That’s kind of scary as the they should be placed to handle weight distribution when all 4 are lifted
 
Tangentially to this thread, I recently had my car on a 4 post lift using the factory jack points. I got a little freaked out because when stopping the lift the nose of the car would sometimes actually do a little hop because of how rear biased the weight is. Seems like this shouldn’t happen with the factory jack points.
Depending on your lift, you still need to get the CG of the car in the specified CG range for your lift. Its in my lift manual. For my type, (normal lift) the Emiras door handles need to align with the posts approx.
EDIT: For a true 4 post (not 2) were you using cradle/bridge jacks or something to lift it off the tires? No way it should shake if used properly.
Its always a good idea (especially the 1st time lifting a specific car) to raise it just so the tires are off the ground, then push down on the front tires, rear tires etc to make sure its stable and balanced.
My 'unofficial CG' calculation i did based on the weight loads at the tires.
emira cg.webp

 
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One of the problems is that you have the 4 jacking points and that’s it.

I can see your point about centering the car’s weight on the lift itself so the lift itself is loaded correctly but that wouldn’t change the car’s center if gravity in relation to the jack points.

I took his post to mean that when the Emira was on all 4 jacks pads that the front end was almost ready to rock back. Which for a design standpoint wouldn’t make sense at all.
 
One of the problems is that you have the 4 jacking points and that’s it.

I can see your point about centering the car’s weight on the lift itself so the lift itself is loaded correctly but that wouldn’t change the car’s center if gravity in relation to the jack points.

I took his post to mean that when the Emira was on all 4 jacks pads that the front end was almost ready to rock back. Which for a design standpoint wouldn’t make sense at all.
Yes, this is what I meant. Not that it’s impossible I did something wrong, or perhaps the lift itself was a bit out of level. I use the lifts on the military base near me and they’re not the newest or best maintained.
 
Yes, this is what I meant. Not that it’s impossible I did something wrong, or perhaps the lift itself was a bit out of level. I use the lifts on the military base near me and they’re not the newest or best maintained.
If you were using a 4 post (drive on lift with runways) how did you lift the car at the jack/lift points?
 
If you were using a 4 post (drive on lift with runways) how did you lift the car at the jack/lift points?
I guess it was a 2 post lift, you know the ones with four adjustable arms you put under the car
 
I guess it was a 2 post lift, you know the ones with four adjustable arms you put under the car
Very important to use my guide and process I mentioned earlier. The lift doesnt care much about the CG for the lift loads but the car sure does. you can have all four lift arms on the lift/jack points but if the cars CG is not in the lift CG envelope it will do exactly what you noticed (especially when starting/stopping movement). When the car is moving up/down on the lift it has inertia so if its not balanced correctly it will fall/rock or potentially fail by putting excessive shifting loads on the pivots on the arms. See youtube for lift fails.
FWIW: Theres two type of 2 post lifts with different CG positions.
Symmetrical_vs._Asymmetrical_Lift_diagram_480x480.jpg
 

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