KEF audio upgrade - fix bass distortion when windows opened ??

Is there a post on this? I have seen one other member discussing that the "flap insert" fit did not properly and kept falling out, so he secured properly. However, I have not seen anything along the lines of adding a foam filler to the insert - and I am interested.

As far as the Op's question, I had the same distortion. The cutting the green wire helped a bit, adjusting the main volume and bass levels helped more, but still had that blown speaker slapping sound at a robust volume. So, I went with the Pioneer WX010A sub. With the Emira's small cabin, the WX's low power draw, tiny size and output level it is perfect. I took the time to wrap it in Alcantara and it sits on the rear shelf between the seats. It is barely noticeable, looks like its supposed to be there, takes up very little space at all and sounds great.

Now, if I can just find the time to install those darn tweeters in the A pillars.. 🤣
Thanks for the insight. Have you got a picture of it installed?
 
Is there a post on this? I have seen one other member discussing that the "flap insert" fit did not properly and kept falling out, so he secured properly. However, I have not seen anything along the lines of adding a foam filler to the insert - and I am interested.

As far as the Op's question, I had the same distortion. The cutting the green wire helped a bit, adjusting the main volume and bass levels helped more, but still had that blown speaker slapping sound at a robust volume. So, I went with the Pioneer WX010A sub. With the Emira's small cabin, the WX's low power draw, tiny size and output level it is perfect. I took the time to wrap it in Alcantara and it sits on the rear shelf between the seats. It is barely noticeable, looks like its supposed to be there, takes up very little space at all and sounds great.

Now, if I can just find the time to install those darn tweeters in the A pillars.. 🤣
There was a post about this on here somewhere, I don't quite remember who it was that shared it.
 
Thanks for the insight. Have you got a picture of it installed?
I dont unfortunately, it was a challenge finding the right fuse taps loclly and after it was finally installed I just wanted to get it back together and drive. Travelling, but I will get one for you when I get back home..
 
There was a post about this on here somewhere, I don't quite remember who it was that shared it.
Yep, got it bookmarked.. Its a must read because of the actual testing/research that went in to identifying the right wires an polarity.
 
So I’d never really noticed this issue before until I read this thread a couple days ago.
Then last night on a warm spring evening I’m listening to some very bass heavy music and roll the windows down - instantly muddy, overdriven bass. Close the windows - it’s fine. CRACK one window a half inch - overdriven bass. Crazy!
I tried turning my bass setting down from 7 to 3 - doesn’t fix it but it helps a little.
I don’t know if this issue has always been there and I haven’t been aware of it, or if it was winter and I haven’t had the windows down since last summer.
Either way I now need to go quest for that thread on a “foam fix” for the sub…
 
The issue with the bass "overdriving" with the windows down is not unique to Emiras. It'll happen on most cars with a dedicated subwoofer or bass driver. Putting the windows down essentially increases the distance that the bass wavelengths can travel. They're no longer limited by the enclosed interior.

 
So I’d never really noticed this issue before until I read this thread a couple days ago.
Then last night on a warm spring evening I’m listening to some very bass heavy music and roll the windows down - instantly muddy, overdriven bass. Close the windows - it’s fine. CRACK one window a half inch - overdriven bass. Crazy!
I tried turning my bass setting down from 7 to 3 - doesn’t fix it but it helps a little.
I don’t know if this issue has always been there and I haven’t been aware of it, or if it was winter and I haven’t had the windows down since last summer.
Either way I now need to go quest for that thread on a “foam fix” for the sub…
I'm yet to find the sub, let alone the foam fix. yeah, i think this is just a 'quirk' of the cars - sadly.

if there is indeed a sub, can anyone point out where it is. i'm a UK spect RHD car, so left or right side would help to know.
 
Do a search on this forum. It's not overdriven bass, it's the cabin air vent flaps moving that sound like a blown speaker.
 
I wonder if that also relates to an occasional ‘clunk’ I hear when opening the RH door. Dealer had said it was some sub error, that lotus was trying to fix with software.
It's the subwoofer that makes that sound but I don't think the issue is related. That said, I've not had that clunk/boom happen on my Emira since the last service where I had some later patches installed. Maybe that fixed it or maybe it's just coincidence.
 
There was a post about this on here somewhere, I don't quite remember who it was that shared it.
This is what I found, doesn't really cover the "how" but does give an idea of what may be going on..


but I also found this post that talks about wrapping the vent with cloth tape, so airflow is still possible but reduces the flapping due to its location right next to the subwoofer.

 

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Also fill in the baffled bent thing with foam, something soft and squishy and breathable.
 
Looking for opinions here - Reading a lot of subwoofer strategies has been enlightening, but I still have one question, and don't want to have to take things apart three times. (going back in to clean up a little and make changes if there is a better approach)
First, a few members have "tapped" the sub lines for a signal, and reconnected the original sub. However, one member, @EatAHelicopter, did not reconnect. I have plugs, and can depin original and connect cleaner directly to my aftermarket sub - wondering if running both original and aftermarket subs OR just the aftermarket sub is better from a signal perspective.
Second, if the better approach is to run only the aftermarket sub, is there really a need to use a breathable batting to cover the fresh air vent? Obviously, this should help when keeping the original sub connected, so I am guessing the answer is "no", as I haven't noticed any flapping sound without music playing.
 
Thanks for the insight. Have you got a picture of it installed?
Finally thought to grab a picture for you.. The WX010A is really tiny, but puts out some really good sound.
Wiring all in the cabin, using the unused 12v lug and a mini fuse tap on an empty acc slot on the rear fuse box.
I positioned so it fires against the back wall, attached with velcro on the bottom and on two small feet that stick to the wall . Set to 100Hz and ~75% gain, seems to fit perfectly with the OEM head unit output.
I also ultimately decided to go back in and reattach the original sub, and installed a 7.25in x 3.25in (1in. thick) piece of chair seat foam wedged between the original sub and the adjacent air vent flaps - now I can ride with the windows open or at volume without the papery speaker slapping sound.
When I tested after install I was able to hit 100% volume on the head unit (doors open) with no distortion, so I was happy.

 

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