Exhaust valve actuator issue - component replacement vs. full exhaust backbox?

TBH, I don’t know if mine melted—it just wouldn’t close. I believe the unit was still responding. I’ve since been back to the track multiple times without issues.
 
"Hey guys, do you think that installing a dummy plug on the Emira i4 while keeping the exhaust valve physically locked open would work to get rid of the CEL (Check Engine Light)? Theoretically, the simulator should fool the ECU, and locking the valve would prevent any mechanical issues.
I physically have the exhaust valve open at all times, but relocated the valve controller and I haven’t had any issues
 
I said it many times that the Milltek product, even the new version that I tried causes problems. Don’t buy it and remove it.
Anyone driving in hot weather or pushing hard creating heat will always have a problem. If you don’t have issues with Milltek installed, you are lucky. The benefit of louder sound is not worth it. You are better off starting with a 3rd cat delete. Get an exhaust if it’s still not louder. But not titanium because it creates too much heat. Get stainless steel, and a wrapped one that also relocates the valve controller. Trust me because I have been through all this BS!
 
Hi mate. Can you share with me where you relocated? The other day mine melted because of hot temperature when I was tracking.
They moved it behind passenger side where the vents are with a custom bracket.
Valves are always open
 
Greg, assuming these are "OE like" and are plug and play? I only ask because the link didn't have much of a description.
Correct, they are the same thing used by Lotus and plug & play.
 
I don't have Milltek controller and only have a decat; I was constantly getting limp mode on track sessions.
Dealer service advisor told me the valve controller melted (though I don't see it reflect in the work notes).
Work notes indicated Lotus advise them to replace the ASO EXHAUST MUFFLER VALVE ACTUATOR (8902858596).

So it's odd to me he'd say a different part was melted. I'm also under the impression a decat in fact reduces heat in the area to reduce the melting risk.
I've yet to go back to the track after the replacement to see if it was solved though.
 
I said it many times that the Milltek product, even the new version that I tried causes problems. Don’t buy it and remove it.
Anyone driving in hot weather or pushing hard creating heat will always have a problem. If you don’t have issues with Milltek installed, you are lucky. The benefit of louder sound is not worth it. You are better off starting with a 3rd cat delete. Get an exhaust if it’s still not louder. But not titanium because it creates too much heat. Get stainless steel, and a wrapped one that also relocates the valve controller. Trust me because I have been through all this BS!

I agree that the Miltek modules are rather fragile, but there are ways to make it work if you're inclined.

Not trying to convince you since it sounds like you're rightfully done messing with them.

I believe the key to making them last is to move them out of the elements and away from heat. I created a motorsports grade wire harness that plugs in at the exhaust valve and moved the Miltek module to the battery box. As it stands, many many Texas track days and commuter miles and it's been lasting.

I popped 2 modules before moving it, so I agree they are fragile.
 
Better off with a 3rd cat delete and Eventuri air intake. More sound and power with no headaches.
 
Yep! We ship worldwide everyday.
"Thank you so much for the speed and professionalism! The part has already arrived, flawless service. Thanks again!"
 

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