3rd Cat Delete but not do the valve controller??

I did the delete + controller. You can easily test out the buttons yourself by just driving around and listening. I keep mine "open" while driving, and trust me, there is NO WAY you will make the mistake in driving with the valves closed, thinking they are open. The sound difference is night and day.
 
It will, the valve monitors the actual position and throws errors if it doesn't match up. To fix it you need that recalibrated via EmiraDS

Delete only is a hell of a upgrade under wide open throttle or above 4k rpm. Below too, if you kick it, but OEM like when just driving around. Perfect for the city.
Hopefully someone will bring out a bypass like on the RS, was only cheap and works perfectly, no mil light and passes the mot without issue, been on there for over a year now. My thinking is, if they do come out with one, doing the 3rd cat & a Race chip, not that I need it any faster really, can't use the power of any cars nowadays on the road, all gone to sh!t since the good ol days lol
 
I got stung by the V1. Installed it at the same time as the Cat Delete. Drove it for a day then POW....CEL and Limp Mode. Had to have it towed 110 miles to the nearest dealer to clear the codes. This was not a fun experience.
Militek promptly replaced the unit with a V2 which is still in the unopened box on my workbench. This was a year ago and I still debate putting it on. The sound was incredible for the day that it worked......
 
Sorry if this has been brought up before. Does the V2 eliminate the possibility of engine codes completely? I just put on my V2 but have barely driven it. It's at the dealer right now for the AC/water membrane issue but I left it on button #2 on the controller so it acts like stock. Hopefully they also won't notice it, the JB4, or the fact that I messed around with the membrane before bringing it in, lol.
 
I got stung by the V1. Installed it at the same time as the Cat Delete. Drove it for a day then POW....CEL and Limp Mode. Had to have it towed 110 miles to the nearest dealer to clear the codes. This was not a fun experience.
Militek promptly replaced the unit with a V2 which is still in the unopened box on my workbench. This was a year ago and I still debate putting it on. The sound was incredible for the day that it worked......
What was the issue in the end with the V1? Did it melt with heat or was it installed wrong? I only ask as I'm on the fence like many people about installing a valve controller...
 
Just Had the bypass and V2 valve fitted by B&C for £900.00. Could of done it myself but wanted a specialist to warranty it just in case? took them less than 2 hours. On initial start up it has a louder and deeper tone and better sound throughout all settings. IMO the bypass on its own is good but the valve addition is a must; button 3 is like stock, 2 is an intermediate and 3 is very exotic and going to upset the neighbours big time. Worth every penny.
 
button 3 is like stock, 2 is an intermediate and 3 is very exotic and going to upset the neighbours big time. Worth every penny.
I thought button 3 was valve always closed, button 2 was to respond to ECU (so as OEM stock) and button 1 was valve always open.
If you have the valve always closed you need to be careful when pushing the engine.
 
I thought button 3 was valve always closed, button 2 was to respond to ECU (so as OEM stock) and button 1 was valve always open.
If you have the valve always closed you need to be careful when pushing the engine.
Just playing with it to suss out what does what, I drive in sport and track all the time so button 3 for me would never be used. I was just comparing sounds between the 3 buttons
 
Apparently Button 2 is sometimes Button 3 on some fobs and vice versa. 1 is always open. My V2 was 1 = always open, 2 = “stock”, and 3 = always closed. I’m glad mine came that way since Button 3 is small and hard to press.
 
Apparently Button 2 is sometimes Button 3 on some fobs and vice versa. 1 is always open. My V2 was 1 = always open, 2 = “stock”, and 3 = always closed. I’m glad mine came that way since Button 3 is small and hard to press.
exactly, small means no and ignore. I think its a great upgrade
 
I got stung by the V1. Installed it at the same time as the Cat Delete. Drove it for a day then POW....CEL and Limp Mode. Had to have it towed 110 miles to the nearest dealer to clear the codes. This was not a fun experience.
Militek promptly replaced the unit with a V2 which is still in the unopened box on my workbench. This was a year ago and I still debate putting it on. The sound was incredible for the day that it worked......
V1 had issues due to placement and getting melted by the exhaust. V2 is placed in the right rear wheel well behind the arch liner. It is quite safe here and I haven't had any issues since installing last year.

If you liked the sound you should install that v2.
 
V1 had issues due to placement and getting melted by the exhaust. V2 is placed in the right rear wheel well behind the arch liner. It is quite safe here and I haven't had any issues since installing last year.

If you liked the sound you should install that v2.
Have you had to put the controller in a waterproof box? I saw a guy on 'The Tube' that did just that
 
Have you had to put the controller in a waterproof box? I saw a guy on 'The Tube' that did just that
I did but I don't know how necessary it is. Just extra precaution. You can just put it in a plastic bag to keep water out.
 
I believe there are some 3d print files out there as well to house the module.
 
I did but I don't know how necessary it is. Just extra precaution. You can just put it in a plastic bag to keep water out.
I used saran wrap, kinda ugly but I thought it would be a tighter seal than a bag and less fiddly to secure. The weather-proof box is the most elegant and professional solution but I just wanted to get it done and over with on my day off, lol.
 
Has anyone noticed that the Homelink control for the valves is inconsistent? Sometimes it works flawlessly, other times I need to press the button several times before giving up and fishing out the remote. I wondered it it was because the Homelink blasts the signal forward, or if it has to do with interference on the road? It could also be my particular Homelink mirror as I have not been able to get it to work with my condo garage (previous car's Homelink worked fine).
 
Has anyone noticed that the Homelink control for the valves is inconsistent? Sometimes it works flawlessly, other times I need to press the button several times before giving up and fishing out the remote. I wondered it it was because the Homelink blasts the signal forward, or if it has to do with interference on the road? It could also be my particular Homelink mirror as I have not been able to get it to work with my condo garage (previous car's Homelink worked fine).
Yes, it's happened to me a couple times. Also be careful clicking the button a lot of times, I think it's something like five times in 10 seconds and it changes the way the controller behaves. Instead of remembering the last mode when you turn on the car it resets to the stock mode. I didn't realize that the first time that happened and I was so confused.
 
I still have a fully functional V1 with no codes that have ever come up. Countless hard canyon drives and a few track days in high heat. I have reflective heat wrap around the wiring and the module tucked away into the wheel arch area as indicated with the instructions on Grp's site.
 
I still have a fully functional V1 with no codes that have ever come up. Countless hard canyon drives and a few track days in high heat. I have reflective heat wrap around the wiring and the module tucked away into the wheel arch area as indicated with the instructions on Grp's site.
Same. I have 17k miles on my V1 with no issues.
 
same.
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