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❓ QUESTION Who has Milltek's Active Controller Installed?

ttvetdoc

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I suspect easy to install but I had my mechanic do it with the 3rd cat delete. Definitely worth it. I keep my valve open all the time. I've also programmed it with my homelink so I can switch between open and factory/OEM mode (although I never do that!)
 

BobbyG

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I had the Milltek 3rd cat delete, Milltek exhaust, and Milltek controller installed last Thursday.

Also had a GRP mid pipe installed (non insulated version).

I plan on running valve open 100% of the time.

A truly transformative upgrade.

Zero code issues.
 

K_Squared

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Is the homelink button as fast/responsive as the millet controller ?
I haven't tested the exact response time vs. the controller but the homelink button works within about a second when holding down the button (as if you were opening or closing a garage)
 

ADC

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Can somebody clarify... do you have to have Homelink optioned on the car, or can the button just be otherwise assigned to do what the fob does? I didn't option Homelink on mine, because I didn't see the point, but this seems more useful than a garage door opener button :)
 

Kimmax

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Can somebody clarify... do you have to have Homelink optioned on the car, or can the button just be otherwise assigned to do what the fob does? I didn't option Homelink on mine, because I didn't see the point, but this seems more useful than a garage door opener button :)
There are no buttons on the mirror that could be programmed without the Homelink option fitted
 
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Sentinel

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Running with the valve open is transformative, to the extent I removed the aftermarket Y, J and muffler I was running (which were causing CELs) and went back to stock exhaust with the valve controller, and I have no desire to modify it further. Sounds awesome even with the factory 3rd cat.

I suspect the factory muffler is almost a straight pipe when the valve is compeltely open.

One IMPORTANT thing to be aware of with these is that running the valve forced closed can potentially damage the engine due to excessive backpressure. The factory valve is a complex device that varies the amount it opens based on a number of factors, including engine mode, RPM and a load sensor that measures the pressure against the valve in realtime and adjusts the position of the valve accordingly to minimise backpressure whilst maintaining minimum exhaust volume.

By default, the valve returns a P1018 "Valve unable to reach commanded position" fault code and puts the car into limp mode when the valve does not operate correctly, but the Milltek controller overrides this by returning an OK response at all times, so it is removing a layer of protection. I'm not sure if this is the case even in OEM mode or not, however.

I'd highly recommend mapping only the OEM and Open modes to Homelink, and then putting the remote away from the car so theres no chance of running the valve closed accidentally. The difference between "Closed"and "OEM" isn't as obvious as you may think, especially in Tour mode.

Because of this ability to force the valves closed, there are potential warranty implications associated with running this mod.
I hope Milltek release an updated version that omits the "Always Closed" setting as even their own literature states that you SHOULD NOT use this mode.
 

hellasf1

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Yeah full Milltek system OPF/GPF bypass and controller installed. I did it myself in my garage no lift or jack stands. Was it a bitch? Yes! But it can be done.

For the controller wire I used double sided 3m at the base of the diffuser and zip ties and you can’t see any wire through the mesh at all. GRP has a great visible on securing the receptor, I did the upper rear driver side wheel well.

My controller was pinned wrong according to Milltek. So my controller is as follows, #1 is fully open, #2 is OEM & #3 is closed. Number 2 and 3 should be switched.

I leave it open all the time and it’s night and day difference! I’m still in break in period and decided to install it once I got it picked up from the dealer so the exhaust has a better flow for break in. Not scientific just my thinking. So far it’s phenomenal!

Since mine was pinned wrong I am going to stick a wire camera in there to ensure it’s fully open and not doing some weird shit since it was programmed wrong. Milltek assured me it is fully open but going to double check for peace of mine.

If you’re on the fence just do it! This is how the Emira should have sounded from the factory :)

Also forgot to mention but the temp in the trunk has gone way down since installing the full system. Idk if it’s helped with the heat but it’s a noticeable difference.
 
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Speedy Emira

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I have the controller and it’s great especially with the 3rd cat delete.
I drove 140 miles this evening and it was nice to close the valves and listen to music off my Spotify. It was the first time I really listened to music instead of wanting to hear the exhaust and found the sound quality of the Kef pretty good.
 

Sentinel

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I have the controller and it’s great especially with the 3rd cat delete.
I drove 140 miles this evening and it was nice to close the valves and listen to music off my Spotify. It was the first time I really listened to music instead of wanting to hear the exhaust and found the sound quality of the Kef pretty good.
Never drive with the valves forced closed. Risk of engine damage. Even Milltek says this.
 

Speedy Emira

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I have the controller and it’s great especially with the 3rd cat delete.
I drove 140 miles this evening and it was nice to close the valves and listen to music off my Spotify. It was the first time I really listened to music instead of wanting to hear the exhaust and found the sound quality of the Kef pretty good.
Never drive with the valves forced closed. Risk of engine damage. Even Milltek says this.
sorry I should have said they were closed because I put the controller in oem setting and was in Tour mode. Good shout to point that out though. 👍🏻
 

crashprash

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Running with the valve open is transformative, to the extent I removed the aftermarket Y, J and muffler I was running (which were causing CELs) and went back to stock exhaust with the valve controller, and I have no desire to modify it further. Sounds awesome even with the factory 3rd cat.

I suspect the factory muffler is almost a straight pipe when the valve is compeltely open.

One IMPORTANT thing to be aware of with these is that running the valve forced closed can potentially damage the engine due to excessive backpressure. The factory valve is a complex device that varies the amount it opens based on a number of factors, including engine mode, RPM and a load sensor that measures the pressure against the valve in realtime and adjusts the position of the valve accordingly to minimise backpressure whilst maintaining minimum exhaust volume.

By default, the valve returns a P1018 "Valve unable to reach commanded position" fault code and puts the car into limp mode when the valve does not operate correctly, but the Milltek controller overrides this by returning an OK response at all times, so it is removing a layer of protection. I'm not sure if this is the case even in OEM mode or not, however.

I'd highly recommend mapping only the OEM and Open modes to Homelink, and then putting the remote away from the car so theres no chance of running the valve closed accidentally. The difference between "Closed"and "OEM" isn't as obvious as you may think, especially in Tour mode.

Because of this ability to force the valves closed, there are potential warranty implications associated with running this mod.
I hope Milltek release an updated version that omits the "Always Closed" setting as even their own literature states that you SHOULD NOT use this mode.
Has anyone tried programming a different remote (eg: a garage opener remote) to replace the milltek remote and omit the valved closed feature?
 

Sentinel

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Has anyone tried programming a different remote (eg: a garage opener remote) to replace the milltek remote and omit the valved closed feature?
works with Homelink, so will work with any programmable remote that’s able to read frequencies within the correct range. It’s not a rolling code.

Intercepting with my Flipper Zero, it operates in the 400-500Mhz range.
 

Speedy Emira

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works with Homelink, so will work with any programmable remote that’s able to read frequencies within the correct range. It’s not a rolling code.

Intercepting with my Flipper Zero, it operates in the 400-500Mhz range.
I’m sure someone could do that easily enough because my neighbour had a company change his M5 so it is quiet when entering his road.
I will have to ask him how it does the proximity side if it’s not close enough to a home link. I’m guessing it’s the same tech as geo fencing on a tracker.
 

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