sidewall stiffness plays a huge role here.
Track Driving Feedback
- Thread starter Ft.S
- Start date
Oh, for sure. I think that's what led those tires to wear like that (Dunlop Sport Maxx Race). The CR-S don't destroy their outer edges like that, but I have a much more linear uneven wear, with the inside being hardly touched. I've ordered a set of your A-Arms @mr.suntorytime , and intend to increase negative camber to make it better. I did some ghetto engineering, and carefully measured the thickness difference between inside and out, front and rear, and I think I need about -2.5 degrees front camber and a little less in the rear. Right now, I'm at -1.5F and -2.0R.
Yep, thats close to what i run. Should do the trick for you.
ouch. I maxed out stock camber which has been helpful and generally my tire wear has been quite good (with the exception of last weekend, which I ascribe to 90+ temps on a track with a brutally long right hander that chews up tires). How has your tire wear been since maxing out stock? I think I got front -1.3, -1.5, rears -2.2
It's been much better since I maxed out stock, but I push the car hard, and the dynamic camber loss just kills tires. My car is slightly lowered due to Nitrons, so the max camber available is a tiny bit different due to the ride height change. With Nitrons, you have to lower the car by at least 10mm, so I lowered it as little as possible. I got 1 track day off the original super sports, mainly by destroying the fronts. Then I got 2 track days off the LTS PS Cup2's with max stock camber, and the 10mm drop due to Nitrons. It looks like the CR-S will be good for 3 track days, no more. Once the new A-arms arrive, I'm hoping for 4 track days. We'll see.
- Thread starter
- #28
Update:
It is not the fluid or overheating of any kind. When I took it for service, they flushed the fluid and told me there were almost no air bubbles. Still not completely convinced and continuing to have deflating pedal issue, I removed the Pagid pads out to examine. There is no sign of overheating at all on the pads, they look like they are barely used. The rotors also look in very good condition. The brake lines are in great condition as well.
One thing to note on the pads: the outer pads on each of the corners were worn 1 mm more than inner ones. I suspect this is because the air guides are not sufficient for cooling both sides of the rotors equally, even though they are pointed towards the middle of the hub.
So, search for the root cause for the deflating brake pedal continues, the car goes back to service again tomorrow.
Make sure they pressure test the lines.
Hopefully its not the master cylinder… let us know what they find.
- Thread starter
- #30
To conclude the brake issue: I swapped the Pagid pads out and put the stock pads on. Drove around for a couple of weeks without any issues.
This means there weren't any issues with the master cylinder, at least unlikely. I think the Pagids require a backing plate to be used, and that the heat on the pad during tracking weakend the back side of the pad as I can see the pistons' deep marks on the back of them. So, the pad was compressing from the back of it when I used the brakes.
I am guessing of course, and I don't have the means to test the pads with the backing plates to verify my hypothesis. Greg's sells the nice titanium backing plates, I'd recommend those if ou are using the Pagid pads.
Cheers.
This means there weren't any issues with the master cylinder, at least unlikely. I think the Pagids require a backing plate to be used, and that the heat on the pad during tracking weakend the back side of the pad as I can see the pistons' deep marks on the back of them. So, the pad was compressing from the back of it when I used the brakes.
I am guessing of course, and I don't have the means to test the pads with the backing plates to verify my hypothesis. Greg's sells the nice titanium backing plates, I'd recommend those if ou are using the Pagid pads.
Cheers.
This is an interesting note as I saw the same thing. I never saw the backing plates on the website. To be fair I never looked for them, but I cooked the brand new Pagids and Girodiscs on the first track day.
I'll admit, my earlier EBC's may not have been bed in correctly, but this time around I felt pretty confident with it. I wouldn't think the backing plates would be required if they don't come with the pads, but you never know. Greg will probably chime in on this.
Will use this thread to share feedback and ask for your inputs; was finally able to get to my local track north on Montreal, Canada (circuit Mont-Tremblant). I have the V6, Manual so was looking forward to it after tracking M cars for nearly 20yrs at same place. A few drivers on the track mentioned that my Emira was “puffing” a short but noticeable black smoke on heavy acceleration (ie. exiting a turn). Wondering if some of you experiencing the same? I am not noticing abnormal oil consumption. Maybe engine mapping under high load is set in such way. Never experienced it w/ my BMWs before… anyone experiencing the same?
these cars run very rich. if you dont have a cat its even worse haha.
Would also like Greg @GRP to chime in as I just purchased Pagids for an upcoming track day. When you say you cooked the setup, what do you mean? Did you get fade? A bit concerned as the setup seems more that enough unless you are pushing extremely hard.
I've tracked for about 20 years now (few hundred track days) and I push my cars pretty hard. I don't run Pagids anymore because they turn ashen white and crumble when they overheat. It's quite possible to do that at some tracks. I've had better luck with CarboTech or GLoc which are basically the same thing, in terms of organic pads, and the best pads overall were sintered metal pads. Sintered metal pads, however, destroy rotors very fast, so if you have someone else paying your consumables budget, they're the best choice, but if you're self-funding, the organic pads will let you use far fewer rotors. On the Emira the metal pads had too much bite, our brake system is very powerful.
Sorry, just seeing this. No fade was ever present, but the pads were pretty cratered and there were clear hotspots on the rotors. (vibration inducing) The most obvious conclusion is they weren't bed in properly, but I felt confident that they had been this time. This also occured on my original rotors with EBC pads. (maybe there is something more going on?)
I think next time I will purchase pre-bed pads and see if there is any meaningful impact.
I am planning on installing my Pagids this week and checked their break in procedure. Seems They want 20 slow downs. 10 from 90mph to 50 mph using medium force, 5 from 110mph to 40mph using heavy force and a final 5 from 90mph to 50mph using medium force again. Looks like I'm going to have to do it late at night.
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