Reasons a clutch would go at less than 12k miles of normal driving?

Search response:
"Yes, there are many common mechanical and operational issues where a clutch does not disengage fully (often called "clutch drag"), causing the clutch to slip constantly, overheat, and burn out. Here are specific examples of issues leading to this failure:

1. Hydraulic System Failures
  • Leaking Master or Slave Cylinder: If the hydraulic system leaks, it cannot maintain enough pressure to fully push the pressure plate, leading to incomplete disengagement.
  • Air in the Hydraulic Line: Air bubbles in the hydraulic fluid are compressible, meaning part of the pedal effort is wasted compressing the air instead of releasing the clutch, resulting in "drag".
2. Mechanical Linkage Issues
Improper Cable Adjustment: If a clutch cable is too loose or stretched, pressing the pedal to the floor does not move the release fork far enough to fully disengage the clutch.
  • Bent/Broken Clutch Fork: A damaged or weak fork may bend under pressure rather than pushing the pressure plate effectively.
  • Broken/Bent Pedal Assembly: A cracked or broken clutch pedal bracket allows the pivot point to twist, reducing the total distance the slave cylinder moves.
    www.sachsperformance.com +4
3. Internal Transmission/Clutch Damage
  • Damaged Pilot Bearing/Bushing: A seized pilot bearing can lock the input shaft to the engine, causing the clutch to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed.
  • Damaged Splines: If the clutch disc spline is damaged, corroded, or dirty, the disc can jam on the input shaft and cannot move away from the flywheel.
  • Warped Pressure Plate/Flywheel: Extreme heat can cause the metal components to warp, meaning even when disengaged, high spots on the pressure plate continue to rub against the clutch disc.
  • Improper Installation: Installing the clutch disc backwards or not centering the clutch properly can prevent full release "
I will provide an update on the outcome in due course, but please be aware of any clutch slippage or even a light burning smell as these may indicate you are developing a similar problem to ours.

Best regards to all, and thanks in advance for any constructive comments from the community.

Regarding the AI summary and your dealer's feedback: There hasn't been a cable-operated clutch in a sports car in over 20 years (Porsche stopped using them in 1986, and even Mustangs had stopped all non-hydraulics by 2004). Some of the obvious irrelevant items brought up by the AI may have clouded your dealer's judgement in giving fair consideration to the more plausible ones.

My thought on the most likely causes: An iffy clutch line bleed combined with the parking brake drag. That's a perfect storm. The rest would either be obvious from a dealer's inspection, or not relevant to the type of vehicle the Emira is.
 
The e-brake not releasing has been fixed ages ago in software, anyone still experiencing this should get updates asap - there's tons of other fixes after that too
Besides that we have other threads regarding weird noises from the clutch when engaging, my car included. I'm not sold on the OEM clutch being fault free, but my dealer said "bite point ok, don't worry about it"
I didn't pursue further, but I'm kinda expecting a failure down the line..
11/2022 Build
 
On my car I noticed that even if you had the car in gear and the clutch all the way in and revved the engine, the car would move forward. when I brought the car into the dealership to get some other work done, the tech did think there was an issue and they got otherization from Lotus to bleed the clutch...I think that has helped, but can't exactly recall now since I haven't driven the car since last Sept?
 
Hello Emira community,

I have received the disturbing news that my clutch is now confirmed as being badly burnt and worn and according to views of Lotus CC, not therefore liable for repair under warranty (c£6k costs) for being classed as "wear and tear."

Our car has only ever been mollycoddled and (I'm ashamed to say in this company) not truly driven beyond a couple of mildly spirited demo drives for friends and family. It is certainly not down to driving style, as both my wife and I have owned many manual cars over almost four decades with none requiring a clutch replacement and several being run for more than 100k miles. We don't ride the clutch or regularly hold the car on hills by feathering the clutch.

Should a clutch just go pop after just 12k miles of normal (careful) daily driving? Is this anyone else's experience? The dealer (a well known and largely favoured Lotus dealership) could only speak to having changed one Emira clutch at 14k miles, and that was on a very intensively tracked vehicle. (Ours has been no where near a circuit, nor ever driven as such)

Our experience doesn't seem right and I fear speaks to something failing on the car, but I am not mechanically minded and am looking for help from those who are.

One minor issue we have had during this last year, and I have read about it from others on here, is the sticking automatic brake. I was going to have it addressed at our next service as it seemed to us to be only a minor issue; but the car has often required higher revs to push through the disengagement of the auto brake. This has happened to us on several occasions and I had taken to using the brake release button instead, but I fear this fault may indeed have been a major cause of our burnt clutch.

Internet searches also suggested a number of other potential mechanical root causes. The dealer has been rather dismissive of these and not wished to spend any time addressing these items individually (merely referring to my search as coming up with "incorrect information"). I'd be grateful for any insights from those with better knowledge than me for things that could be looked into to explain our rather early onset experience of a burnt clutch.

Search response:
"Yes, there are many common mechanical and operational issues where a clutch does not disengage fully (often called "clutch drag"), causing the clutch to slip constantly, overheat, and burn out. Here are specific examples of issues leading to this failure:

1. Hydraulic System Failures
  • Leaking Master or Slave Cylinder: If the hydraulic system leaks, it cannot maintain enough pressure to fully push the pressure plate, leading to incomplete disengagement.
  • Air in the Hydraulic Line: Air bubbles in the hydraulic fluid are compressible, meaning part of the pedal effort is wasted compressing the air instead of releasing the clutch, resulting in "drag".
2. Mechanical Linkage Issues
Improper Cable Adjustment: If a clutch cable is too loose or stretched, pressing the pedal to the floor does not move the release fork far enough to fully disengage the clutch.
  • Bent/Broken Clutch Fork: A damaged or weak fork may bend under pressure rather than pushing the pressure plate effectively.
  • Broken/Bent Pedal Assembly: A cracked or broken clutch pedal bracket allows the pivot point to twist, reducing the total distance the slave cylinder moves.
    www.sachsperformance.com +4
3. Internal Transmission/Clutch Damage
  • Damaged Pilot Bearing/Bushing: A seized pilot bearing can lock the input shaft to the engine, causing the clutch to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed.
  • Damaged Splines: If the clutch disc spline is damaged, corroded, or dirty, the disc can jam on the input shaft and cannot move away from the flywheel.
  • Warped Pressure Plate/Flywheel: Extreme heat can cause the metal components to warp, meaning even when disengaged, high spots on the pressure plate continue to rub against the clutch disc.
  • Improper Installation: Installing the clutch disc backwards or not centering the clutch properly can prevent full release "
I will provide an update on the outcome in due course, but please be aware of any clutch slippage or even a light burning smell as these may indicate you are developing a similar problem to ours.

Best regards to all, and thanks in advance for any constructive comments from the community.
Yes, sticking automatic brakes is definitely a problem so extra revs and clutch drop to get the car to move, particularly when at a road junction moving off. I've noted this to Lotus just in case my clutch fails prematurely. But its obvious that the clutch is going to suffer due to a brake "fault".
 
This is exactly the reason I have mine at the dealership currently. It’s done 4,300 miles of which I’ve driven only 500 miles (ex-demo). I’m currently trying to get them to do it under warranty or I will go through consumer rights in the small claims court.

I’ve had the persistent parking break issue and have highlighted this to them. It’s been recalibrated once, but it only lasted 5 drives before reverting to holding on and burning the clutch. Like you I haven’t given it in anger yet, although I plan to track it in the future at which point I’ll get the clutch upgraded.
 
The e-brake not releasing has been fixed ages ago in software, anyone still experiencing this should get updates asap - there's tons of other fixes after that too
Besides that we have other threads regarding weird noises from the clutch when engaging, my car included. I'm not sold on the OEM clutch being fault free, but my dealer said "bite point ok, don't worry about it"
I didn't pursue further, but I'm kinda expecting a failure down the line..
11/2022 Build
Didn’t fix mine and it’s gone back to be sorted again.
 
Didn’t fix mine and it’s gone back to be sorted again.
I actually think our automatic brake system was fine before the software update. Our sticky brake issue has only been for this last year since the last service was done when these updates were supposed to have been put through.
 
I actually think our automatic brake system was fine before the software update. Our sticky brake issue has only been for this last year since the last service was done when these updates were supposed to have been put through.
I’m curious, are you replacing the clutch with OEM/stock parts or considering something aftermarket that may not only be more durable but higher quality?
 
I’m curious, are you replacing the clutch with OEM/stock parts or considering something aftermarket that may not only be more durable but higher quality?
We hadn't even considered non-OEM. Just asked the dealer to do the repair which, we assume, will be OEM repair. Is there a consensus of opinion around a much better clutch assembly for similar money that might not suffer the same issue quite so quickly?
 
I’m sure many of the other folks here with real world experience on this car will chime in. However, in previous Porsches, BMWS, Audis, I usually upgraded the clutch when due with something a bit more robust than stock for longevity, wear, and drivability. Seems like this vendor is very popular on this forum and may offer something worth looking into.
https://www.gregsraceparts.com/products/xclutch-xklt24530-1a-lotus-evora-stage-1-clutch-kit Best of luck regardless!
 
I’m sure many of the other folks here with real world experience on this car will chime in. However, in previous Porsches, BMWS, Audis, I usually upgraded the clutch when due with something a bit more robust than stock for longevity, wear, and drivability. Seems like this vendor is very popular on this forum and may offer something worth looking into.
https://www.gregsraceparts.com/products/xclutch-xklt24530-1a-lotus-evora-stage-1-clutch-kit Best of luck regardless!
I don't know what the factory parts costs, but this is what I'm going to go with when the time comes for a clutch replacement:

 
I don't know what the factory parts costs, but this is what I'm going to go with when the time comes for a clutch replacement:

Me too if mine goes. I had a complete new clutch and flywheel (OEM) installed at 430 miles under warranty already. But if it goes again, and the car is out of warranty, then it’ll be the JUBU.
 
Me too if mine goes. I had a complete new clutch and flywheel (OEM) installed at 430 miles under warranty already. But if it goes again, and the car is out of warranty, then it’ll be the JUBU.
430 miles on the car when the first clutch went? What caused the failure? Great it was covered under warranty but that’s insane it seems to me.🤔
 
430 miles on the car when the first clutch went? What caused the failure? Great it was covered under warranty but that’s insane it seems to me.🤔
To quote the AA repair mane “your clutch has exploded”. The thrust bearing collapsed taking the clutch plates and flywheel with it. They also couldn’t get the gearbox to operate correctly after replacing the clutch, so they put a brand new gearbox on as well. Just part of my woes with my car!
 
I don't know what the factory parts costs, but this is what I'm going to go with when the time comes for a clutch replacement:

Thoughts about this JUBU option vs the XClutch offered through GRP?
 
Thoughts about this JUBU option vs the XClutch offered through GRP?
I had not seen that one before, but I still like the design of the unit from JUBU. The one from GRP looks to be a good setup, though it looks like it might be heavier than the JUBU. I don't see any weight listed for the GRP unit. The JUBU unit is 6.6 lbs lighter than the factory setup, and that would make a difference in how fast the engine spins up and slows down. Greg sells good stuff though, and his customer service is top notch, so if you go with his offering I'm sure it would be good. It's going to be better than stock, especially for anyone who's upgrading their engine.
 
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does this seem to be a first year production issue???

anyone with a 2025 or newer with these clutch issues?

Mine is a late 2025 V6 manual. Dropped it off with the dealer Friday. Just hit 5,000 miles.

Car drives fine under 4k rpm but, anything over 4k it feels like I’m pulling the car out of gear and forcing it into the next.

Feels like a clutch master cylinder problem to me but we’ll see what they say.
 

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