Ohlins vs Nitrons?

I'm considering swapping out the suspension as the next mod after I've got the Tillets fitted. I'm looking for a fast road setup and the roads in the UK are, to say the least, terrible., so need to take that into consideration. Only looking to lower by 10-15mm.

I'm looking at either the Nitron NTR R3 or the Ohlins TTX. Nitrons cost £4800 and the Ohlins at £6900.

Are the Ohlins really going to be 2k better?
If you are primarily using this for fast road use, I would even consider getting the Nitron singles. R1 Fast Road is what I have. I originally had an I4 with Sport which has unusually high rear spring rate (850? something like that) and the ride was ok stock but a little crashy on the rear and would induce oscillations depending on the bad highway surface. I got the GRP lowering kit, which works 100% and is awesome...but they took my shop quite a bit of effort to install and that money could have just went straight to coil overs.

Nitron used my car as a test bed and developed the I4 R1 and I would assume it feels similar to the V6 R1. I use my car almost exclusively for weekend canyons and no track work. The R1's are super compliant, got rid of all the body roll, and just are great on all types of surfaces. I can't imagine needing more from the car right now for what I use it for. When I am alone and going pretty hot I'll see the G meter in the 1.2-1.4 range and I never feel the car is getting unsettled, it's just compliant. So if cost is an issue at all something to consider. If you can swing it get the Ohlins triples!! They're super pretty and this way you can float over berms when you go to the track.
 
That's the story of my life with everything. But I keep telling myself, moving forward, "measure twice, cut once." That's why I've stayed on the sidelines for now.

Forgot the weight savings part. That's alot of weight shed so definitely a positive.

But the R1 fastroads is probably the way I go for the reasons you listed. Plus, just dropping in brand new coilovers vs having to dismantle the OEM ones to fit the sleeves/cups would be faster and easier.

Couple more questions:
1. What are the service intervals on Nitrons? OEM suspension tends to last a long time so I don't want to get Nitrons and have to service them constantly.
2. Does anyone know where the proper alignment specs are listed after it's lowered?

Service intervals sort of depend on types of driving you do but I'd imagine canyon carving and light track work would get you 20,000 mi between rebuilds.

Alignment depends on what you want out of the tires, if you want track you can dial a little bit more, but youre limited by adjuster range.
 
Service intervals sort of depend on types of driving you do but I'd imagine canyon carving and light track work would get you 20,000 mi between rebuilds.

Alignment depends on what you want out of the tires, if you want track you can dial a little bit more, but youre limited by adjuster range.

Thanks. Won't be tracking it but I do take it out into the canyons every weekend for some spirited driving. If track use gets me 20K out of them, then I'm hoping close to 25-30K with just canyon runs once a week, if that...
 

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