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DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE

Did my 1010 mile oil change yesterday. Noticed some glitter in the filter removed as expected so can see why doing at 1k is a good idea. Added the magnetic drain plug (porter's link). My filter housing wasnt real loose and just took a little force on the filter wrench to loosen. I didn't bother with the drain port on the bottom either and wasnt really messy that way.
When I put the filter back and liberally oiled the oring then reinstalled. The housing flange/interface had some weepage on the bottom after a quick drive. Wiped off and drove longer again. Very minor weepage again. Removed filter housing again checked everything and oring and reinstalled making sure to only lightly oil the oring itself. Ran engine for several minutes and observed with no leaks. Took for a drive (with underbelly off of course) and then inspected and completely dry.
My used oil plug crush washer was really stuck on there and took some encouragement to get off.
The underbelly pan must've been designed by a high school dropout intern who misspells engineering for their career choice. I considered making a subpanel for oil service in the future or at least drilling a hole so if there are any leaks they would have a more direct path to drip and be seen. You can see the filter housing at least if you peak in through the slotted hole in the panel at the right angle.
TIP: Once you get ALL the fasteners removed (7mm and 10mm only) you push the pan towards the diffuser a bit which releases it from the front brackets. Then the front drops and you slide it towards the front releasing the ears from the back. Reinstall is opposite. :p Havent seen anyone else mention that. Also the pan is sharp on the edges so wear gloves for that part. Dont think they know what deburring is.
 
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The underbelly pan must've been designed by a high school dropout intern who misspells engineering for their career choice. I considered making a subpanel for oil service in the future or at least drilling a hole so if there are any leaks they would have a more direct path to drip and be seen.
The fact Lotus didn't include an oil change / inspection panel baffles me (pun intended). Seems like a no-brainer. But Lotus opted for 39 bolts required to remove under tray instead. Just another opportunity for the aftermarket to step up with a solution I suppose.
 
"I considered making a subpanel for oil service in the future or at least drilling a hole so if there are any leaks they would have a more direct path to drip and be seen"

"Just another opportunity for the aftermarket to step up with a solution"

Yep, agree 💯
Maybe @GRP can come up with an aftermarket under tray with acces panel for oil changes.
 
Dont think they know what deburring is.
Deburring is impotant, it provide a smooth surface for de crankshaft and de pistons to rotate over. Very impotant to lube deburring, always with fresh oleo. If deburring dried up, burring could wer down or spin. Don't want dat.... (according to the Swedish Chef)
 
Yep, agree 💯
Maybe @GRP can come up with an aftermarket under tray with acces panel for oil changes.
The aero panel is quite complex and is probably not the kind of thing that would be cost effective to replace with an aftermarket part. Some kind of modification to make an access hatch would be a better approach, I think, but would need to be done very cleanly and professionally.

1718896249757.png
 
For those looking the oil funnel with case is on sale for $38 today.

 
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Could probably cut that down a bit.
It's got to be better than the zig-zag funnel. That thing is so fiddly to keep still.
 
So I've read all this discussion about different oils to use. While i'm sure there are many that will work great, I tend to just use whatever is OEM. What exactly is the OEM oil for this car and where can it be purchase online?

My plan for getting the car lifted and level for the 1000 mile oil change service: Will this work with a 19" max height jack on the emira (daytona 3 ton)? Lift from rear jack point, place esco stand under front jack point, 10" wheel crib under rear wheel. Repeat for other side. Thanks!
 
So I've read all this discussion about different oils to use. While i'm sure there are many that will work great, I tend to just use whatever is OEM. What exactly is the OEM oil for this car and where can it be purchase online?

My plan for getting the car lifted and level for the 1000 mile oil change service: Will this work with a 19" max height jack on the emira (daytona 3 ton)? Lift from rear jack point, place esco stand under front jack point, 10" wheel crib under rear wheel. Repeat for other side. Thanks!

You can’t purchase it in North America, just use any 0w40 SN or higher rated oil.
 
For anyone looking for a ramp, specifically a two piece one, bought this one and works well for me. Only tried the front though (sorry I didn't take a pic) but if it clears the front it should definitely clear the rear:

 
@neiru37 but you couldn't use four at a time. That total rise wouldn't allow it under the body of the car.
 
So I've read all this discussion about different oils to use. While i'm sure there are many that will work great, I tend to just use whatever is OEM. What exactly is the OEM oil for this car and where can it be purchase online?

My plan for getting the car lifted and level for the 1000 mile oil change service: Will this work with a 19" max height jack on the emira (daytona 3 ton)? Lift from rear jack point, place esco stand under front jack point, 10" wheel crib under rear wheel. Repeat for other side. Thanks!

From page 275 of the Emira Owners Handbook NA:
1719092565967.png

It looks like it is available in Canada, not sure about the US.

https://germanparts.ca/parts/to213988-0w40-total-total-quartz-9000-energy-0w40-1l/
 
@neiru37 but you couldn't use four at a time. That total rise wouldn't allow it under the body of the car.
Ah yes, for that you'd really want a quick jack or race ramps. But if you just want to jack up the front or back to remove the under tray, say for oil changes, then this is a decent cost effective option. Then if you want to level the car to really get all the oil out you can independently jack up the other side.
 
So I've read all this discussion about different oils to use. While i'm sure there are many that will work great, I tend to just use whatever is OEM. What exactly is the OEM oil for this car and where can it be purchase online?

My plan for getting the car lifted and level for the 1000 mile oil change service: Will this work with a 19" max height jack on the emira (daytona 3 ton)? Lift from rear jack point, place esco stand under front jack point, 10" wheel crib under rear wheel. Repeat for other side. Thanks!
That's close to what I'm doing. I already had a Daytona 3 ton low profile jack, and purchased another to lift from the rear jack points simultaneously. I built 2x4 wheel cribs which will give me 10.5 inches under the tires. After lifting the rear, I have more clearance to access the front jack points which are further inboard than the rear. I've tried it and it works well and at a minimum expense. There is approximately 5.5-6 iches of ground clearance when the car is on the ground, so I'm hoping that the total of 16 to 16.5 inches will be adequate for an oil change. I'm only 30 miles short of 1000, so will find out soon.
 
That's close to what I'm doing. I already had a Daytona 3 ton low profile jack, and purchased another to lift from the rear jack points simultaneously. I built 2x4 wheel cribs which will give me 10.5 inches under the tires. After lifting the rear, I have more clearance to access the front jack points which are further inboard than the rear. I've tried it and it works well and at a minimum expense. There is approximately 5.5-6 iches of ground clearance when the car is on the ground, so I'm hoping that the total of 16 to 16.5 inches will be adequate for an oil change. I'm only 30 miles short of 1000, so will find out soon.
Thanks for the info! Just wasn't sure how much droop was present of the suspension once the car is up and if that jack would be able to lift high enough to get a 10" wheel crib under the wheel in the rear. Sounds like I should be okay. I'm hoping theres enough room to roll underneath with a creeper since it sounds like ill be spending a lot of time removing bolts. MIght be too tight with the creeper though. Let us know how it goes!
 
Thanks for the info! Just wasn't sure how much droop was present of the suspension once the car is up and if that jack would be able to lift high enough to get a 10" wheel crib under the wheel in the rear. Sounds like I should be okay. I'm hoping theres enough room to roll underneath with a creeper since it sounds like ill be spending a lot of time removing bolts. MIght be too tight with the creeper though. Let us know how it goes!
When I tried it, I used a creeper and was able to get underneath without too much problem. Getting all the bolts out and lowering the pan may be more challenging, but we'll see soon.
 
The funnel on this is kind of too tall, it hits the hatch glass, still works but awkward.
I bought something similar from CTA tools. I purchased an offset filler tube (#7472, $22.95) that is made of aluminum and has an adjustment to tilt and lock the funnel. Not sure if it would fit your kit, but hoping it will solve the interference with the glass issue. I'll be doing the 1k oil change this week and will post the results.
 

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