Rattling near passenger speaker / glove box area

[TheMotizzle]

I'm hearing a rattling during normal driving. Hard to place it exactly, but I'd say the closest area is the KEF door speaker on the passenger side, but could be anywhere in that area. Doesn't sound mechanical, more like something vibrating at a certain resonance. Anyone else experience this? Thanks!

 

[Rayjoedef]

I did, in an I4
.....then it mysterious disappeared

 

[TheMotizzle]

I did, in an I4
.....then it mysterious disappeared

Whoa interesting. How long did it take to go away? My i4 is at 950 miles.

 

[Rayjoedef]

Right around break in, 1000k or so. A metallic sound, correct?....maybe there was a software update for that...lol. I'd go and push around the door card and adjacent panels.....make sure seat belt clip isn't banging around. I was getting a noise behind my head where headliner meets rear window. Dealership fixed that.....maybe that rattling that we both hear was from the clips that hold those components together.....good luck

 

[TheMotizzle]

Right around break in, 1000k or so. A metallic sound, correct?....maybe there was a software update for that...lol. I'd go and push around the door card and adjacent panels.....make sure seat belt clip isn't banging around. I was getting a noise behind my head where headliner meets rear window. Dealership fixed that.....maybe that rattling that we both hear was from the clips that hold those components together.....good luck

Great ideas. I'll try all that and see what happens.

Since it went away at 1k miles, I wonder if you hit your break in and switching from tour to sport changed the frequency the engine was outputting and no longer caused the rattling? Just spitballing.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[netsinah]

Unfortunately, rattles/noises aren't covered by warranty, according to exclusion (5) on page 4 of the warranty wording:

https://wlt-p-001.sitecorecontenthub.cloud/api/public/content/3dbaced1adec48e5afb2e36fcaa92c60?v=a6e0ea5a

If the advice above doesn't help and the noise continues and is driving you insane, I'd suggest:

1. Checking to ensure the door panel (the leather interior portion, which is the first outer layer), is properly attached to the door frame. There are 2 bolts somewhat hidden on either side under the armrest. Make sure they're both there and tightened. But be careful, not to strip the bolts, when playing with them. Check as well, that the "puddle light" on the bottom of the door, is in tight and properly connected to the electrical power source (is it working? causing a rattle?).
2. If all that looks OK, consider removing that first door panel. It's easily done: remove the 2 bolts mentioned in #1 above, then lift up to unlatch it from the door. You must also remove the door handle cable, which isn't hard. Below is a photo taken by someone else, showing that outer panel gone (and the inner panel with sound deadening material already installed, so yours will look differently): you see the 6+ "brackets" sticking out, which the first panel, hooks into to (you lift it off these). You also see the door handle cable, which is attached in the photo, by blue tape on its right side. The "blue taped end" is the one you need to disconnect. With that door panel removed, shake it or knock it in areas, to see if you can recreate the noise. If that panel sounds solid, you'll have eliminated it as the cause.



3. Check to see that all bolts attaching the inner panel, are tightened/present around the edging of the panel. If not, that could explain the rattle.
4. If that all looks OK and with that interior panel exposed, you'll be better able to hear any rattling which might be coming from within the door (in the cavity behind the inner panel). Get a passenger to sit next to the door, during a ride over some bumpy terrain, so the passenger can better figure out where the noise is coming from.
5. If the noisy area is definitely within the door itself (L or Rt side...top...or bottom), you're now into the tricky part of removing the inner door panel, to see what's going on inside, to cause the noise. Check out the thread below, about installing noise reducing sound insulation in the doors (not what you're doing), for tips on removing that inner door panel, including my comments on posting #69 on the thread. It's not a fun job and only if you're mechanically inclined, should you tackle it. The hardest part is removing/reattaching, the 3 window motor screws, which others, like me, found to be a real PITA. If you're not up to tackling this job, consider taking it into a dealer to resolve, but be prepared to pay for their time taking everything apart to locate what could be an elusive rattle.

Initial Results after adding Tweeters

I added some tweeters to my Emira. While I had the door panel off, I added sound deadening material to the inside of the door, and to the inside of the plastic that holds the 3 inch driver. I used an Alpine Tweeter. The end result is great. But the path there is a bit weird. I've done...

www.emiraforum.com

Hope this helps and good luck solving your rattle!

 

[TheMotizzle]

Unfortunately, rattles/noises aren't covered by warranty, according to exclusion (5) on page 4 of the warranty wording:

https://wlt-p-001.sitecorecontenthub.cloud/api/public/content/3dbaced1adec48e5afb2e36fcaa92c60?v=a6e0ea5a

If the advice above doesn't help and the noise continues and is driving you insane, I'd suggest:

1. Checking to ensure the door panel (the leather interior portion, which is the first outer layer), is properly attached to the door frame. There are 2 bolts somewhat hidden on either side under the armrest. Make sure they're both there and tightened. But be careful, not to strip the bolts, when playing with them. Check as well, that the "puddle light" on the bottom of the door, is in tight and properly connected to the electrical power source (is it working? causing a rattle?).
2. If all that looks OK, consider removing that first door panel. It's easily done: remove the 2 bolts mentioned in #1 above, then lift up to unlatch it from the door. You must also remove the door handle cable, which isn't hard. Below is a photo taken by someone else, showing that outer panel gone (and the inner panel with sound deadening material already installed, so yours will look differently): you see the 6+ "brackets" sticking out, which the first panel, hooks into to (you lift it off these). You also see the door handle cable, which is attached in the photo, by blue tape on its right side. The "blue taped end" is the one you need to disconnect. With that door panel removed, shake it or knock it in areas, to see if you can recreate the noise. If that panel sounds solid, you'll have eliminated it as the cause.

View attachment 64223

3. Check to see that all bolts attaching the inner panel, are tightened/present around the edging of the panel. If not, that could explain the rattle.
4. If that all looks OK and with that interior panel exposed, you'll be better able to hear any rattling which might be coming from within the door (in the cavity behind the inner panel). Get a passenger to sit next to the door, during a ride over some bumpy terrain, so the passenger can better figure out where the noise is coming from.
5. If the noisy area is definitely within the door itself (L or Rt side...top...or bottom), you're now into the tricky part of removing the inner door panel, to see what's going on inside, to cause the noise. Check out the thread below, about installing noise reducing sound insulation in the doors (not what you're doing), for tips on removing that inner door panel, including my comments on posting #69 on the thread. It's not a fun job and only if you're mechanically inclined, should you tackle it. The hardest part is removing/reattaching, the 3 window motor screws, which others, like me, found to be a real PITA. If you're not up to tackling this job, consider taking it into a dealer to resolve, but be prepared to pay for their time taking everything apart to locate what could be an elusive rattle.

Initial Results after adding Tweeters

I added some tweeters to my Emira. While I had the door panel off, I added sound deadening material to the inside of the door, and to the inside of the plastic that holds the 3 inch driver. I used an Alpine Tweeter. The end result is great. But the path there is a bit weird. I've done...

www.emiraforum.com

Hope this helps and good luck solving your rattle!

This is an incredibly helpful reply, thank you!!