Milltek Valve Controller Weather Resistant Enclosure

wings19

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My Specs:
Emira V6
Hello fellow enthusiasts! I'd like to show you a solution I've created to help keep the Milltek valve controller unit and connector out of the elements.

When I bought my valve controller and saw it was recommended to install the unit using a plastic bag to keep it dry, I wanted a more elegant solution. I designed and printed this enclosure for my own installation, showed the Houston Emira Group, and it became pretty popular. ...So I thought I'd offer it here as well!

There are two versions available, both include a .18oz tube of E6000 Premium which is designed for plastic such as ASA. Both of my enclosures are compatible with V1 and V2 versions of the Milltek controller. Choices outlined below:
  • V1 - Plain square box with no zip tie tabs. (I am told there is a placement for the V1 controller for which the box with no tabs is a better fit)
  • V2 - Square box with zip tie tabs for easier and safer mounting. Zip ties should still be installed over the box but the tabs help keep the box from slipping out of the zip tie.

The enclosure is made with ASA plastic and comes in two halves. Installation is as follows:
  1. Insert the controller into the bottom half.
  2. Attach the top using the included E6000 Premium adhesive and clamp/weight it to dry.
  3. Once the halves are joined together you should smear some of the adhesive along the seam around the box to ensure weather resistance.
  4. For the cable exit, use adhesive to seal this area.
  5. Wait for the adhesive to dry, 24hr recommended. And install on the car!
Price - $35 shipped CONUS
(Contact me for other locations)

IMG_0631.webpIMG_0632.webpIMG_0634.webpV2 BoxIMG_1565.webpIMG_1417.webp
 
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Are they not already weather proof and designed to be installed as is?
Has anyone here had one fail from water ingress?
 
Are they not already weather proof and designed to be installed as is?
Has anyone here had one fail from water ingress?
The controller case is not sealed especially where the connector is. The connector itself appears to be a Molex connector designed for PC power supplies which is not designed for outdoor use. The box I've designed encompasses the controller and connector for those reasons.
 
Are they not already weather proof and designed to be installed as is?
Has anyone here had one fail from water ingress?
The miltek module is anything but weather sealed. Just snap together plastic casing to house the PCB and the main connector is a Molex Microfit connector, which is also not weather sealed.

@wings19 is good to go! We're local and he's part of the Houston Emira group. Buy with confidence!
 
I had already installed my MVC a year ago but saw a few of them melt with heat so I got this box from Nick. Worked amazing. The MVC fits perfectly inside of it. I used permatex right stuff RTV to insulate the plug because it is pretty exposed. Then I also sealed it closed with the same so it becomes water right.

I also used heat shielding for the wires and the box fits perfectly inside a little box on the bumper behind the wheel. Here are some pics of my re-install.
 

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The controller case is not sealed especially where the connector is. The connector itself appears to be a Molex connector designed for PC power supplies which is not designed for outdoor use. The box I've designed encompasses the controller and connector for those reasons.
Poor Milltek design.
What were those guys thinking.
 
Now if someone would drop my diffuser, unzip tie everything, and install this box I'd be all over it! My version 1 has been in the wheel well hiding spot for quite some time -- fingers crossed it stays happy.
 
Which version is better for installing in the left side of the rear bumper where most are installing the V1 valve controller?
 
Which version is better for installing in the left side of the rear bumper where most are installing the V1 valve controller?
V1 fits in that little box on the bumper. Also you should get the box without the winglets. That's what I install above. I think there is the same box on the right side as well so I think V2 would fit there as well but the box with winglets will not fit in there.

In less words, get the box without the winglets if you want to install it in the same spot that the V1 install says.
 
Hello fellow enthusiasts! I'd like to show you a solution I've created to help keep the Milltek valve controller unit and connector out of the elements.
When I bought my valve controller and saw it was recommended to install the unit using a plastic bag to keep it dry, I wanted a more elegant solution. I designed and printed this enclosure for my own installation, showed the Houston Emira Group, and it became pretty popular. ...So I thought I'd offer it here as well!

There are two versions available, both include a .18oz tube of E6000 Premium which is designed for plastic such as ASA. Both of my enclosures are compatible with V1 and V2 versions of the Milltek controller. Choices outlined below:
  • V1 - Plain square box with no zip tie tabs. (I am told there is a placement for the V1 controller for which the box with no tabs is a better fit)
  • V2 - Square box with zip tie tabs for easier and safer mounting. Zip ties should still be installed over the box but the tabs help keep the box from slipping out of the zip tie.

The enclosure is made with ASA plastic and comes in two halves. Installation is as follows:
  1. Insert the controller into the bottom half.
  2. Attach the top using the included E6000 Premium adhesive and clamp/weight it to dry.
  3. Once the halves are joined together you should smear some of the adhesive along the seam around the box to ensure weather resistance.
  4. For the cable exit, use adhesive to seal this area.
  5. Wait for the adhesive to dry, 24hr recommended. And install on the car!
Price - $35 shipped CONUS
(Contact me for other locations)

View attachment 71162View attachment 71163View attachment 71164View attachment 71165View attachment 71166View attachment 71167
Question: why use glue on the 2 halfs? Doesn't that make it harder to access the module going forward if, for any reason, it needs to be replaced? I understand the desire is to water-proof it, but I would have thought that a strip of strong duct tape (i.e. Gorilla) around the encasing's perimeter would be as effective to seal it.
 
Two questions



Question: why use glue on the 2 halfs? Doesn't that make it harder to access the module going forward if, for any reason, it needs to be replaced? I understand the desire is to water-proof it, but I would have thought that a strip of strong duct tape (i.e. Gorilla) around the encasing's perimeter would be as effective to seal it.
Once you install it, you should never need to access the module. It's not like it's upgradable or fixable if something goes wrong. Once you install, it's going to stay there till you uninstall it.
 
Once you install it, you should never need to access the module. It's not like it's upgradable or fixable if something goes wrong. Once you install, it's going to stay there till you uninstall it.
It's the enclosure that I would re-use, not the module.
 
Yep - The E6000 is just one way to do it but certainly you can adjust to suit your needs. I know it’s weather resistant with the E6000 and I’m sure with RTV also. I haven’t tested tape.
 

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