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Oh man that is terrible. Can you swap out the battery to eliminate that problem? And for the ebrake, car has to be in ignition mode so you have to press and hold the start button for 5 seconds (screen will alert you it’s in ignition mode) and then you can take off the ebrake

I think it’s an option in the settings menu I believe. Also, I could have sworn that if you open your drivers door after you unlock the car, this will force the auto lock option off. I learned this because when you only open up the trunk (without opening up the doors) the alarm will very loudly...

Swapped out the wheels. Black wheels are the winter setup Bronze wheels are the summer setup 😎

It’s like the axle acts like a fuse 😂. You upgrade the fuse the trans or the clutch is next

Not that I’ve noticed. There is still that panel in the place that covers that whole area. If I can’t find a replacement grommet I’ll just stuff a rag in the hole or something like that

My original plan was to leave a hole in the grommet but the grommet fell into the whole never to be seen again so I left it open. It exits bottom left of the engine bay under the airbox etc. I shined a light on the interior of the car to see where where the light comes through on the other side...

For those installing this on the V6 cars, instead of drilling the firewall there is a large rubber grommet behind the drivers side that you can use to feed the OBD cable through the firewall. You’ll need to do this by feel (unless you take off the panel but it’s totally doable).

Nice comparison. Funny enough I drove the fl5 over 2 years ago and it’s still one of my favorite cars. So much so that over the weekend I was debating trading in my jeep JL wrangler for a fl5 to have as a daily and an Emira as a weekend car. But, a part of me says that I’m gonna compare the crap...

Damn it sounds like they got fried. Due to the exhaust? I’d teach to Greg from GRP to see if he was any idea what might have gone wrong. Those o2 sensors are a pretty penny too

I think you need to remove the diffuser to access the controller to unplug it and plug the OEM plug back in

I highly doubt it can melt from up there. Maybe try to disconnect the controller entirely and see if that’s the issue? If the problem persists it’s prob the exhaust setup

Oh one more thing on the valve controller, can you pull the diffuser and see if it melted? If it’s mounted directly behind the license plate it’s definitely going to melt. Ask me how I know! Had to mount it near the fender

Ahh did letting it rest and turning it off and back on not work? If not I’d disconnect the battery for 10-15

Learned this the hard way!

I’ve had the hawk pads on for like 500 miles and I’ve had zero squeaking at all. Minimal dust too. Super happy

Yeah WTH! I got quoted almost 1k!

I was thinking something similar. @GRP Do you think the 93 map is safe on track? Not like a track junkie but just the occasionally track day

Man my Emira is running pretty dang well and it hasn’t gotten any updates since I got it last year. Right now im in the camp of it ain’t broke….

You going to run the 93 map and report back?

Just crossed 10k miles in about a year of ownership. It’s a weekend driver and I can’t stop driving it!

Downloads the app GasBuddy to see where around you sells 93?

I hadn’t heard of JB4 tuning before but a quick google review has really good things to say about them and they’ve been around for a while.

Looks sick! Perfect look for this kind of car

Yeah this is how I’m feeling about this news about the v8 etc. it’s definitely cool they are looking at options but Think about the pricing of the Emira nowadays and add in a V8 and you are talking Porsche GT3 or 4RS money which will likely put it out of reach for many of us. That with the fact...

This my number point on this …. I want to save a few bucks just like the next guy but Lithuim battery fires are SCARY and too common. I’d rather spend much more on a solid product that has protection from thermal runaway

Do you remember if you had play before the short shifter was installed?

Really spent some time trying to find a track bad that was better than the OEM pads, but not too aggressive as I’m not a track junkie. I looked at RP1s but looked like they still overwhelm the tires and probably overkill for me. EBC blue don’t seem to get good reviews. Called the dealer to get...

Same for me. Went out for a long spirited drive and when I came back, it had significantly less brake dust than the OEM pads. Really like these

Just did a brake fluid flush using a motiv pressure bleeder on the Emira (first time ever on a car actually. It was actually pretty easy including the clutch and both sides of the caliper. Things to note - it was hard for me to get a flared wrench to fit in the inner nipple so also had to have...

Sweet freaking wing! I thought JUBU said there was no cutting involved Or just not cutting visible parts? Was there a black plastic part you remove, cut the panel and install the wing?

I am sure I am way behind on software updates and right now my car is just fine so I kinda don’t want any updates! If it ain’t broke….

Agreed. Not true as my manual will hold and as soon as I apply throttle will disengage hill hold

What’s the deal trying to be had here? Those things have been out of stock for a while and now and I’d imagine will continue to be so. If I wanted them quickly I’d order them even if they are used

I was considering the RP 1 pads for an occasional track day. Do you recommend an alternative? Not a track junkie at all. but I also don’t want to ruin my new ceramic pads so am interested in what track pads make sense.

What sequence triggers it? What did the dealer say?

I like how they just dumb everything down instead of using technical jargon. “Good progress”.