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Crush Washer

Still no issues.

I think that the geometry is slightly different - so the valve travel needs recalibrating. I could also hear chatter when the servo tried to close the valve (there is a lot of back pressure on it). The OBD KILLER worked for me to eliminate the CEL and reduced redline. But the valve chatter...

I noticed that the valve servo was the same brand as the one on my 992 GT3 (that I recently straight cat-backed). I borrowed one and installed it in place of the servo on the Emira. So far it is working perfectly - no CELs yet. Here is a link to the modules: A GT3 uses two, so they are sold...

I think that the sound is so much better with the valve wide open. If I understand it correctly, the stock setup only fully opens the valve at 4000rpm.

Machined version:

===UPDATE=== Installed a crush ring on the Y-pipe flange no leaks now. Amazon Found a possible valve delete module after the third try. No CELs yet !! Wired the valve fully open (clockwise) used some Montana bailing wire for the test. Sound is amazing. Hopefully, this is the solution...

No problem at all. I rotated it. (Not flipped it). I'll get another photo when I install the gasket I just ordered.

I have ordered a couple of valve delete modules (see pic). Hopefully one will work. Aerie is building me a titanium straight cat back. This will be the lightest configuration. Does anyone know what exhaust gasket I need to stop the leak at the flange?

Here is a pic of the valve and spring BEFORE I rotated it. So far, so good. No CEL and it opens and closes correctly.

Update. Diffuser removed. Valve spring rotated. Did a couple of short runs - no CEL yet. Needs longer runs to be sure. Noticed two problems on the Aerie exhaust. See pics below. Top pic is the joint between the y-pipe and 3rd cat bypass tube. @Aerie - do I need a gasket between these...

Was looking for exhaust valve eliminators and came across this (below) on the Milltek site: "Note will require valve re-learn to be completed after installation" Well - there's full transparency and disclosure - as it should be. I have no easy way to get to a Lotus dealer - not sure either...

Do you know if there are any Valve deleters compatible with Lotus? Like this one: Summit racing: Idea would be to force the valves permanently open. I hate my neighbors anyway.

I’ll try rotating the spring. I’m in NW Montana. No Lotus dealers. Hope a recal can be DIY’d On another note, the ‘OBD killer’ cancels the CEL immediately and accel limiting is avoided.

Yes P1018

Absolutely, I will try it. Thank you

I have no idea what I'm talking about, but it could be feasible that the 3rd cat removal may be increasing the O2 flow (less resistance). Does the spacer lower the O2 flow on the sensor? If so, that's worth a try. How think of a spacer should I try ?

I have not altered the cats between the o2 sensors. The third cat (after the Y-pipe) has been deleted but there's no o2 sensor down stream of that. I would very much like to know more about the spacers. That would be a great fix.

Possible, but unlikely. Good access and I've had some previous experience. I'll restore the OEM muffler when I get some time to see if the CEL issue clears up. Reduced back pressure is just a guess.

I have reached out to Wenning Automotive - https://www.wenning.de/obd-killer-fault-code-deleter.html They have a gizmo (OBD-Killer) that worked on my 992 C4S when I switched to JCR 200 cats. I'll report back results.

Google thinks is the Oxygen sensor (see below). So, probably needs recalibrating for the Aerie exhaust. The Ox sensors (2) are mounted on the Y-pipes. the Aerie exhaust has a 3rd cat bypass, so much less back pressure. Unfortunately I can't just put pieces back since the Aerie setup is not...

If we can find out what P1081 code is we can probably solve this.

Reader came today and so did the "Reduced Acceleration Mode". Note the CEL below and the redline at 4krpm Reader reports: 1 Confirmed Trouble Code P1081 No description available 1 Pending Trouble Code P1081 No description available 1 Permanent Trouble Code P1081 No...

I'll get a pic tomorrow. There's a lot of fasteners to remove to get to the oil pan. Some are captured with riveted PEMs. The fasteners between the diffuser and engine base plate have these crappy spring loaded threaded thingies. Very frustrating.

First oil change done. Anyone know where to buy those crappy threaded clips? I bent 2 and cross threaded another.

The sound is not impressive. On turbos : I have found that race cats + stock exhaust is the best combo. Stock exhaust breaks the drone resonance. On NAs + boost : stock cats and straight pipes are the best combo. Carrera 4S: JCR Race Cats + Stock exhaust = awesome GT3: Stock Cats + JCR...

Here is a pic of the Carbon diffusers: Not really my thing, I thought I was buying a carbon diffuser and not screw on covers. Not Aeries fault.

Nice titanium heat patina starting to appear: