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Can you specify where it recorded the low voltage? Or maybe have an OBD code at hand? Does your car run in a rough idle now? Me and my mechanic are on the hunt for some point of water intrusion destroying sensors. It seems to be a problem shared across some builds, so any info helps!

Sensor has been fitted. Looking at the live data I’m not 100% sure bank 1 (still the first sensor) is operating perfectly but the cars runs for now. Further diagnosis will have to wait until the chief mechanic is back in the house. Will do seatbelt replacement, wiper motors, 15k service and...

Which probably means there is more than one place that’s not water tight, since I don’t think a junction box in the front repeatedly destroys a O2 sensor in the back..

I think mine does. Have you refreshed the list?

I agree, that doesn’t sound right

I bet the Ferrari wouldn’t break down after a pressure wash. Not recommending it due to paint work or whatever I’m fine with that. If you’re telling me it’s "normal" a car like the Emira can’t handle the water well…

Count me in, will send the details via DM

I’ve had the "drop and recover" behavior before. I could force it by tapping the gas quickly while coldish (after cat heating phase. It’s a drop to almost stalling and then recovering to idle rpm. However I think that’s expected and just map related - also something you generally never ever want...

"Doing nothing" is expected since those are Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S). They take a little to reach operating temperatures

My drive home was almost 700km, should be fine haha

It’s a Bosch one (Somewhat custom, not available on the open market) and it should be between 0.2 and 0.8. I can recommend "Car Scanner" on some Apple Device, especially on Mac you can read the graphs more easily

Curious: What exactly doesn't work? Do you have any OBD messages or something?

New sensor has been ordered and will be put in in the next few days. Investigation will have to wait till the head mechanic is back. Guess I'm not washing the car till then

@TomE can we get something like pointer-events: none; added on the Emira image shown in the background of thread replies? At least on iOS you cannot copy text currently, since a prompt to save the bg image is being triggered before text selection kicks in

My trigger point. Anyone got an OBDII scanner? Please check the O2 Sensor voltage, especially bank 2.

True, but it’s linked to the water temperature, not oil. Wouldn’t use it as a "let 'er rip" indicator 😂

I’m fine with having to go easy on the brake area with jet washes, but affecting some sensors that could easily be affected by everyday rain, moisture and highway spray is a clear defect for me. Yes it’s a high class car, but it’s not on THAT level.

I think let's say a short just destroys the sensor. Electronics behave erratically once operated outside of specification (Say overvoltage). This time it’s stuck at 0.15V and does nothing, fuel trim for that bank being 0%. Last time it jumped like crazy resulting in fuel trims between -30% and...

Top to bottom, I was especially careful this time. Only went a bit sideways to reach under the doors bottom "edge". I’ll be dropping my car off in the next days when I’m gone for a bit anyways, so they can go through it again.

The wash ends with a deionized water rinse (spot-free drying) which is a poor conductor. Whatever that could mean. Fact it’s permanently damaging the sensor, since it stay’s dead, far after drying time

@EFE any chance you washed the car shortly before your sensor went boom? For reference I’m washing in a self service booth (pressure washer) with good distance to the car and obviously not pointing it directly into any openings. Not that they should be able to handle water through obvious...

Well here we go again. Made it about 800km. O2 Bank 2 (the third one total now) left us today. Live data shows it’s voltage stuck. P223D is being reported again. No O2 related codes yet, but last time they only showed up at a later time too. HOWEVER I come with good news - well maybe: Im...

Gotcha, I was under the impression that they all run on 5V by default. I have yet to decide on one to get :D

Fuse NR 54 is described as Theoretically can’t one bridge that fuse into another always on one? Best case one of the spares is always on with the same rating? Would remove the need to run a new wire and makes use of the rear view usb instead. Of course not draining the battery using either of...

If it’s anything like the other more modern cars I had it doesn’t fully open the flap (not even in track) until a certain rpm is reached. Same with the rev limiter in idle (hint: just press the clutch in fully and it vanishes 😂)

Running out != "On reserve" warning