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If you turn your ignition on so the fans activate, and then walk to the front of the car you can hear very clearly there is a seperate small fan right behind each headlight.

You can replicate this by turning on the ignition by holding the start button for 10 seconds without your foot on the brake or clutch. Its the cooling fans for the headlights I think. Mine does it too. Sounds like the bearings are gone in the fans on both sides.

Testing voltage using a multimeter across the battery terminals. When it drops below 12.5V, cold start issues start. Above that it’s fine. Same with Ampol/BP/Shell 98 here in Aus.

This issue is battery voltage related. If the battery voltage drops below about 12.5V, it will start happening. Put your car on a trickle charger and you’ll see the issue goes away. I think the ECM that controls the fuel pump is sensitive to voltage and is not priming when the battery voltage...

Yeah quite possibly. I was this under the impression that in OEM mode it would pass though rather than just sending OK all the time but maybe I’m wrong.

Yep that’s very strange. Externally appears to be operating correctly. Curious to know if you get a CEL if you put your foot down in sport mode. My V1 exhaust valve never opened fully even after recalibration so the valve was always a bit closed. Same as you, exhaust sounded the same...

There’s a small hole in the diffuser that conveniently allows you to see the valve actuator at work. Set your phone recording and go start the car and press the buttons. Post the video and I’ll be able to tell you what’s wrong (don’t ask how I know 😂)

No mid pipe makes zero difference as there’s no restriction in the stock one. Only flex joints. Next step is headers if you want to go stupid loud. Any emira with a straight through catless exhaust is going to sound very similar to these videos. There’s no magic here.

Marginally more high pitched rasp. No high flow muffler is going to sound massively different to what you have as the stock muffler is pretty much a straight pipe when the valve is forced completely open. Source: I had a titanium system on my Emira and took it back off due to issues with the...

Should be installed like this…

Yes. It will return a P1801 CEL.

People need to understand that the stock exhaust on this car is essentially a straight pipe when you force the valve completely open, give or take a little bit of additional rasp from titanium. Any exhaust will sound similar to this with a 3rd cat delete and catless headers.

Plugs in in place of the factory valve.

Right after PPF and new wheels :)

Mine consistently does it any time the battery voltage falls below 12.2V regardless of the brand of fuel I’m using.

Check your battery voltage. Mine does this if it drops below 12.2V

Yep. I use my home link buttons and just have two mapped for OEM and open. The remotes aren’t kept with the car so there’s no chance of it causing a problem.

You should never drive with the valve forced fully closed. There is risk of engine damage from excess backpressure. Even Milltek’s website says this.

The module is supposed to return an OK signal for "valve reached commanded position" to bypass P1018. P1016 is a different code but not sure of the lotus definition for that particular PID. Chances are its related though. My gut feeling is you have a faulty controller from Milltek.

Very strange then. First I've heard of this particular problem with the valve controller. A few people have received modules with incorrect wiring which has caused the buttons to correspond to different settings, but havent seen any other errors reported anywhere and havent had any problems...

were you running the valve force closed?

Lmao I clicked on the video expecting the signature subwoofer pop they all seem to do. Did not expect this. 😂

Apologies for missing this. Factory bolts were fine. The hub is shifted rather than making the hub thicker.

This design in anodized black or red and I'll order one!

There are 3 buttons. I use one for my garage door and the other two for valve open and OEM.

Are you talking at idle, free revving? Under load? The engine modes on the car itself are doing more than just adjusting how the muffler valve works from factory. They also adjust things like idle RPM, ignition timing, air/fuel ratio, intake and exhaust valve timing, etc which can all have an...

Button 3 (the small one) puts it back in OEM mode. You won’t hear a difference between OEM and Closed modes at idle in Tour engine mode as the valve is closed by default under those conditions anyway. To verify you’re in OEM mode, put the car in Sport or Track mode, then press 3 on the remote...

In OEM mode the valve position is varied based on engine mode, RPM and the back pressure against the valve itself. So at wide open throttle above 5000RPM it’s about the same. But just driving around town it’s much louder with the valve forced open.

Can't speak to the GRP exhaust specifically, but I do know from personal experience that the stock back box is pretty much a straight pipe when the valve is fully open. Running a 3rd cat delete and forcing the valve open will give you all the sound you need. The only benefit IMO of an...

1 = OPEN 2 = CLOSED 3 = OEM That said, there are cases above of people having the buttons correspond with different settings, so don't just trust it's correct. Do a quick test for yourself. You'll easily be able to tell which mode you're in just by listening as the valve opens above 4000RPM even...

It remembers the previous setting

Correct.

Yep that’s easy. Just set up a geofencing tracker with a relay to trigger the remote.

works with Homelink, so will work with any programmable remote that’s able to read frequencies within the correct range. It’s not a rolling code. Intercepting with my Flipper Zero, it operates in the 400-500Mhz range.

Never drive with the valves forced closed. Risk of engine damage. Even Milltek says this.

Running with the valve open is transformative, to the extent I removed the aftermarket Y, J and muffler I was running (which were causing CELs) and went back to stock exhaust with the valve controller, and I have no desire to modify it further. Sounds awesome even with the factory 3rd cat. I...

Pretty sure mine does what you're describing. I put it down to the undertray panels flexing and rubbing as the car twists slightly when turning sharply at low speed.

I’m only aware of one instance of someone having the P1018 code with the milltek system, but I also think a lot of their customers are also running the valve controller and just leaving it open all the time. I’ll be very keen to hear what they come back to you with.